sprkn_ranger Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 As far as a good crimper, there are some hydraulic crimper on eBay going for like $70 or $80 that a lot of guys here can vouch for. As far as the link to the thread, ill try and look again for it in a bit, I skimmed through some posts before but couldn't find it. I'm bad at finding old threads like that lol but ill look again. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Ok here is the solder vs crimp thread I was talking about, but it doesn't show the strength test between the two...maybe I saw that somewhere else Oh and there are links to the crimpers on eBay a few posts down from the top. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/139795-the-ultimate-answer-on-solder-vs-crimp/ Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickerKid58 Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 I bought a little hammer crimp tool online for ~$20. Not as pretty of a crimp as the hydraulic ones but you can still get a strong crimp out of it. For all my big 3 wire I crimp AND solder after my +run terminal failed in my last car and shorted out on the alt. I know it was a 90% chance I just fucked up the solder job but now I dont take the chance. 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2 DC Level4 12" Soundstream TA1.3000d 4 RF Punch 6.5" Components 2 RF Punch 3.5" 2-ways RF Prime 400.4D XS Power XP950 +&-run of XScorpion 1/0 OFC My Civic Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 I bought a little hammer crimp tool online for ~$20. Not as pretty of a crimp as the hydraulic ones but you can still get a strong crimp out of it. For all my big 3 wire I crimp AND solder after my +run terminal failed in my last car and shorted out on the alt. I know it was a 90% chance I just fucked up the solder job but now I dont take the chance. If your solder joints fail and you rely on a hammer crimper to "secure" your wires, then you need to do a little research on how to properly solder large gauge wire. Or have them crimped properly. I believe Steve even put up a video on how to properly solder 1/0 a while back. Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprkn_ranger Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 It was a thread not a video...here ya go: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/6399-how-to-solder-large-gauge-wire/ Check out my build log! 4 Havocs in a blowthrough http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187506-sprkn-rangers-blowthrough-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProMaxx316 Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 For my big 3 i soldered just cause i wanted to give it a try and practice it. So far its been holding good for about 2 years or so. Cost wise i bought a inexpensive Butain torch from advance auto parts (about 30 bucks), and solder from radio shack.Realisticly if i had a good crimper i would of done that instead. But i see myself soldering all my 0awg wires now. If it's worth building, it's worth over building. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KickerKid58 Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I bought a little hammer crimp tool online for ~$20. Not as pretty of a crimp as the hydraulic ones but you can still get a strong crimp out of it. For all my big 3 wire I crimp AND solder after my +run terminal failed in my last car and shorted out on the alt. I know it was a 90% chance I just fucked up the solder job but now I dont take the chance. If your solder joints fail and you rely on a hammer crimper to "secure" your wires, then you need to do a little research on how to properly solder large gauge wire. Or have them crimped properly. I believe Steve even put up a video on how to properly solder 1/0 a while back. I have, I read through that thread and also watched a video steve did a ways back. I'll be the first one to say my connections were'nt pretty and didn't have that perfect little bubble on top but the wire was totally saturated. The solder even went a little further into the wire past the terminal. Thats why I was so baffled when it somehow shorted out. I had taken a bunch of pics and was gonna throw em up but didnt feel like getting flamed.... But anyways looking back at some of the pics I think i might have had some insulation melt on a coolant pipe and eventually shorted it out. I know noob mistake but I know it wont happen again lol. Anywho I'm gonna find some wire laying around and show ya how I get em done. 06 Jeep Grand Cherokee 2 DC Level4 12" Soundstream TA1.3000d 4 RF Punch 6.5" Components 2 RF Punch 3.5" 2-ways RF Prime 400.4D XS Power XP950 +&-run of XScorpion 1/0 OFC My Civic Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 like others have said, strength and resistance really wont be different between soldering and crimping if you do it correctly. a lot of people do each method wrong. the only benefits I have found are that with soldering you could reuse the terminal later on. heating up the terminal and removing it. now sometimes you have to put a terminal on inside your car, after you run your wire. obviously you dont want to solder here so crimping is a lot easier and safer. I use the cheap crimper from harbor freight. It applies enough pressure to get the job done but the jaws are smaller than they claim and I had to smash 1/0 wire a little bit until I took a grinder and knocked down the jaws a little bit. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Hammer Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I solder becaue I have a torch and shit tons of solder in different sizes and different types.. beats spending 70-80 on a crimper. MY BUILD *****http://tinyurl.com/gmcbuild***** Vehicles 2005 GMC Canyon CB1000r - Currently where any future funds are going. (exhasut,bazzaz, ohlins shock, screen, etc.) crf250r - Used to be race bike..now I just trail ride..practice at the track on it. CH80 - Daily beater (when nice weather)best 150$ ever spent. 100+mpg Sold to: Skullz - pstone11 - Leo1103 - Volvo 63' - pavelpardo - imnew59585 Shower farts still piss me off.I think theyre pretty neat. When the water runs down your crack as you let one out... its like shitting in a crockpot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheJesseHoward Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Ever since I had a solder that wasn't good enough and it poppedo ut and shorted, that sh*t is scary. so now, I crimp, solder and wrap electrical tape, along with the boot. as far as crimp vs. solder, I heard crimped is better for slightly more current flow than solder, just do a tug test when you are done with either/or and you will be good. 35% front, 5% tint rear/windshieldKenwood KDC-152Knu RCA'sInfinity 6.5 kappa perfects1/0 Knukonceptz power/ groundBig 3 in 1/0Kinetik HC 1400 in rearCustom slot ported box @ 35 HzNVX JAD 1200.12 Sundown SA-12 Double layered NVX Audio Deadener FUTURE BUILD: -2 Sundown Nightshade 12's D1 w/ Zv3 softs (HAVE) - DC 3.5k (HAVE) - 2 pairs of Skar RPX 6.5's, Skar RPX 6x9's , 4 Skar audio Bullet Super tweeters ( HAVE ) Undecided on box, amp(s), HU, and power supply.. and vehicle for that matter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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