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skittlesRgood

the ultimate answer on solder vs crimp

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I believe this is the most relevent answer to the solder vs. crimping debate. I dont mean, if done perfectly, i have the answer for what is better. I believe it's more relevent to look at technique because it doesn't matter how good one method is if you don't do it correctly. I've taken a bunch or pictures to help show the differences.

Here we have a bunch of bad solder joints. I got these from a used HU I bought a while back. The reason it looks like this is because the user did not have enough heat to make the wire absorb the solder. It should look like its sucking it up. Here, you can see it's just globbed on.

IMG_0263.jpg

And here is what your solder joint should look like. When soldering with an iron, put a little solder on the iron first. This will help transfer heat much faster. Then apply the solder to the opposite side of the wire as the iron. Once the wire is hot enough to melt the solder, it will be hot enough to fully absorb the solder.

IMG_0265.jpg

Now for crimping butt connectors. If these are your "crimpers" then I would compare your crimp to the first soldering pic above. I will admit I used to use these and found later that pulling butt connections apart was very easy when crimped with these.

IMG_0269.jpg

You really should be using actual crimpers. The ones on bottom are ratcheting and they click and release once you have crimped them far enough. They always make the perfect crimp. The ones on top are your basic stripper/crimpers. They work very well but be sure to apply enough pressure. Making a practice crimp would be helpful. Try to pull the wire from the crimp as hard as you can.

IMG_0270.jpg

Now for 0awg. Again, using too little heat is the problem with this connection. One was done with an iron (incorrect) and one was done with a torch(correct).

P1010074.jpg

And for cimping. If your crimper is a vice, or a hammer, you can't get whats called a cold weld. It's not good enough to just pinch the wire down so that it stays on. We are after a connection that will handle a lot of power. Today I modified the jaws on my harbor freight to actually accept 0awg.

P1030907.jpg

Here it is next to the 0awg jaw that it comes with.

P1030911.jpg

Now here is where we can get picky over the two methods when both are done properly:

To compare soldered vs crimp I cut the two in half. The copper lug was crimped, although it previously had a horrible solder so there is a little silver in there, while the gold pated one was soldered. They were both on the same piece of wire. The crimped one looked like solid copper. There isn't much else to say. With the soldered one I could make out some wires. Its was slightly noticable that one side got more solder than the other and there was one tiny spot where about 4 strands did not get solder. I did smash down the terminal in a vice before soldering so that I wouldn't have to use as much solder.

P1030917.jpg

P1030915.jpg

P1030912.jpg

If I have to pick a winner, I would solder small wire and crimp large wire. However, the difference, WHEN DONE PROPERLY, will be so minimal that it really isn't worth arguing over. I hope this helps some of you to make your connections better and safer.


If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

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That's like saying riding horses is faster than a car because a 7 year old is behind the steering wheel.


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this is why im buying a hydraulic crimper soon. i just dont think i know how to solder correctly honestly. always seems to end up looking corroded and shitty in a few weeks


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awesome post!

Moral of the story, as long as you do it right, the method you choose doesn't matter as much as your technique


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this is why im buying a hydraulic crimper soon. i just dont think i know how to solder correctly honestly. always seems to end up looking corroded and shitty in a few weeks

Make sure you get good crimp style lugs ;)

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Awesome post man! Thanks for the info! Is there a certain soldering iron or torch you would reccomend?


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i prefer to solder because i think it looks cleaner and when you solder, i like the idea of the wire and the lug being ONE with eachother rather then 2 things that are two and really close together. Really though, dropping the lug on the cement and hitting it with a hammer probably works just as good as anything else :D Just not pretty. The one benefit to soldering.....you can toss some heat on it and pull the wire back out. When desperate, having a recycled 1/0 lug is always a plus. I got a lot in my boneyard from previous builds and i have had to dip into them a few times :D A little heat, it comes right out, put a new one in, put the boot back over it, and its brand new!

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oh, FYI: my wires are wicked so solid, the first half an inch PAST the lug is usually solid as a rock too. Mine are good to go :D Its definitely not something to do wrong though.

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Highest OFFICIAL SPL scores (at shows, on the TermLab)

DBDRAG - 156.5

Usaci - 157.4

Usaci Streetbeat - 155.2

 

 

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awesome post!

Moral of the story, as long as you do it right, the method you choose doesn't matter as much as your technique

exactly

Awesome post man! Thanks for the info! Is there a certain soldering iron or torch you would reccomend?

I use a weller brand iron that you can adjust the heat on. its great because some projects you need a lot of heat, while with others you end up burning the insulation unless you can turn it down or have a second iron. i have two of those and love them.


If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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