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I do any work on my car that is not tranny or engine ever since this

This. Most things on a car are basic maintenance items - keep the fluids clean, keep them full, change your brakes, and don't put things off. Get yourself a bit familiar with the car and everything is easy. You will start to know what causes what and learn that usually it's a basic fix with just a couple bolts.

It's like when you first got into audio - immerse yourself in the stuff and you can't help but learn. I'd bet 20 bucks that you know your way around audio and electrical stuff that you can diagnose and handle almost any issue that comes up. And usually it's simple stuff. Cars are no different :)

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Was doing some testing on the term lab tonight and the truck started running a little hot and smelled like burning oil. Going to take it Monday for another oil change and for a compression test. I will stand their and watch them do my oil.

Also their was never any oil splashed out and that seems a little weird to me that no oil got out after 5 days of driving it around no cap.

Any thoughts on how no oil splashed out?

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Pull your dipstick and check the oil right now

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Newish truck, no blow by, therefor the oil isn't being blown out of the oil fill hole, not to mention most newer vehicles do have a splash guard in the valve cover at the bottom of the fill hole. Just thin sheet metal that reminds you of a windage tray on a set of main bearing caps on your crank except for keeping oil down rather than up. Thats why you wouldn't lose oil.

Contrary to popular belief and what was said earlier your engine internals do not create vacuum. It builds pressure from heat and slight amounts of pressure entering past the piston rings. This is different than oil blowing past the piston rings though. 150 psi of compression will pass the rings down into your crankcase easier than oil can travel upwards and on 60 psi or less (which its WAY less than 60 at the rings lol).

That pressure must be vented somehow. In comes our old friend the PCV valve. Stands for positive crankcase ventilation. Positive because its pressure not vacuum. There is vacuum from your intake that pulls the PCV valve open although the spring in it attempts to keep it closed. Only when your crankcase pressure is high enough will the assistance of vacuum be strong enough to open the pcv valve drawing the pressure out and recycles the wasted gaseous by product it expells through your intake as predominantly oxygen and not harmful to your intake. That's why PCV tubes are so oily inside because of the residual oil in the gaseous mix.

Side note, a stopped up PCV valve will cause pressure in your crankcase and cause premature failure of crank seal, rear main seal, intake gaskets (less frequent) and valve cover gaskets when that pressure looks for a spot to escape. It takes out the weakest point. So spend 3 bucks and replace them with every tune up and sometimes more often than that.

My .02

I've been drinking so forgive any spelling errors but my info is precise. I've been doing this professionally for years.

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I was going to ask this same question

I changed the oil went like 2-3 weeks with it of until I started noticing I would get less mileage

I though it was the gas cause I went from chevron to valero now I'm back to chevron I still notice I don't get the same mileage as I use to but not as bad as it was with the cap off

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Your super lucky no water got in there while driving.. I saw this and was.like he's fucked. But as long as nothing got in there you should be good. But bet your ass if the engine so much as ticks I'd be up there. Wrong or misinformed or not I'd still be pushing anything on them.

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2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


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Your super lucky no water got in there while driving.. I saw this and was.like he's fucked. But as long as nothing got in there you should be good. But bet your ass if the engine so much as ticks I'd be up there. Wrong or misinformed or not I'd still be pushing anything on them.

Not bashing your comment but I'd like a chance to critique it a bit. In all actuality luck didn't have as much to do with it as situational variables did. Example, if he had driven through a mud hole with it off, sure...he got lucky. However considering the location of the filler neck on the valve cover, it's high mounted, it's not near the body lines of the hood, and even if it POURED rain outside it wouldn't have been likely to get any water in there, let alone enough to do any sort of damage. Like I said, I'm not bashing I simply wish to inform you.

I do agree that if he has any further issues he should see the lot he purchased it from and ask them honestly if it could have anything to do with them leaving the filler cap off.

I don't agree with "pushing anything" on them. This is the sort of behavior that I've encountered during my business practice that is for lack of better wording, shady. I replaced a radiator on a car once, only to have the customer return one month later with a leaking rear wheel cylinder in the brake drum, citing me at fault. In their mind, since I was the last person to work on the vehicle, regardless what I touched, it was my fault. This puts a strain on business relations and in the end, no one really wins unless you can reach an understanding. I'm only telling you this in the case you really meant "push anything" but my better judgement tells me you might have just had a case of poorly chosen wording. That's why I'm not bashing you because I'd rather err on the side of caution that maybe you didn't mean that the way you wrote it. Maybe you just meant bring up the topic of the missing oil cap to remind them maybe it's the cause of any new problem.

Either way, I hope I've contributed some relevant information and help shed some light on the situation.

4 American Bass VFL 8" at 0.5 ohm

Soundstream Tarantula 3000.1D at 0.5 ohm

32 hz ported box designed by Mark at Car Audio Fabrications

XS D1200 secondary with Stinger isolator

 

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Was doing some testing on the term lab tonight and the truck started running a little hot and smelled like burning oil. Going to take it Monday for another oil change and for a compression test. I will stand their and watch them do my oil.

Also their was never any oil splashed out and that seems a little weird to me that no oil got out after 5 days of driving it around no cap.

Any thoughts on how no oil splashed out?

To be honest, I dont think they will perform a compression check because you are demanding them too. they have no reason to perform a compression test on your car. Also dont think they will also change your oil again for the hell of it. I have never worked or heard of a dealer/shop that will just give you a oil change because you want one, even if you do get free oil changes for 2 years. In that case, then I would be going into that shop every week to get a oil change done. If you are just sitting there letting the car idle for a long period of time , it can run a little hotter then normal. There is no air flow going in front of the radiator to help cool it. I believe that the oil cap on that engine is kinda high up off the valve cover. The easiest way to tell if there was any oil coming up out of the oil fill neck, is to look up on the underhood liner in the area that the neck would be when the hood is closed and see if there was any oil there. If none, then a really strong possibilty that there was no oil that came out.

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Your super lucky no water got in there while driving.. I saw this and was.like he's fucked. But as long as nothing got in there you should be good. But bet your ass if the engine so much as ticks I'd be up there. Wrong or misinformed or not I'd still be pushing anything on them.

Not bashing your comment but I'd like a chance to critique it a bit. In all actuality luck didn't have as much to do with it as situational variables did. Example, if he had driven through a mud hole with it off, sure...he got lucky. However considering the location of the filler neck on the valve cover, it's high mounted, it's not near the body lines of the hood, and even if it POURED rain outside it wouldn't have been likely to get any water in there, let alone enough to do any sort of damage. Like I said, I'm not bashing I simply wish to inform you.

I do agree that if he has any further issues he should see the lot he purchased it from and ask them honestly if it could have anything to do with them leaving the filler cap off.

I don't agree with "pushing anything" on them. This is the sort of behavior that I've encountered during my business practice that is for lack of better wording, shady. I replaced a radiator on a car once, only to have the customer return one month later with a leaking rear wheel cylinder in the brake drum, citing me at fault. In their mind, since I was the last person to work on the vehicle, regardless what I touched, it was my fault. This puts a strain on business relations and in the end, no one really wins unless you can reach an understanding. I'm only telling you this in the case you really meant "push anything" but my better judgement tells me you might have just had a case of poorly chosen wording. That's why I'm not bashing you because I'd rather err on the side of caution that maybe you didn't mean that the way you wrote it. Maybe you just meant bring up the topic of the missing oil cap to remind them maybe it's the cause of any new problem.

Either way, I hope I've contributed some relevant information and help shed some light on the situation.

Also the water would likely evaporate once entering due to heat and immediately expel out through the open breather hole anyways.

Op - get your codes cleared, drive around for a day or three, then re-check codes.

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I meant like engine problems obviously a brake issue is in no way related to something like this. But yea I guess it depends on the car. On mine its right up front and any water coming through the front grill has a decent shot of getting in there.

As far as pushing it on them.. well its a two way street. I've seen and experienced gobs of situations where shops mechanics simply weazle their way out of mistakes made. Or having you fix something that isn't broken etc etc. Op has a nice new car IIRC and ill bet money if anything did happen engine wise theyd quickly turn it around and act like leaving your engine cap off is no big deal. As i said whether I be misinformed or even wrong idc because they do the same thing to you if they could. Now I'm talking immediatefuture. Not 10000 miles down the road, obviously you couldn't do much then.

I'm just saying if I had a nice new car and.someone put as much as a.door ding in it while in the dealers care of all places I'd be after someones head. They rape you as much as possible on anything they can. It's a two way street and they aka the dealer just got caught slippin.

It's not like where McDonalds gets sued for hot coffee.. where the person got burned and sued their pants off. McDonald's didn't really deserve that. The person was an idiot or at least not careful. The dealer potentially messing up your brand new car that they prolly raped.you on the price anyway gets w.e they got coming.

Im not saying I'm right. I'm saying I hate shady dealership mechanic type stuff. I understand they need to make $$$ its what they do for a.living. it just seems to me no body cares about being fair or doing what's right. It's every man for themselves especially with the dealer.

Setup:


2010 Hyundai Elantra


Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC


Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt


Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000


Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of -


DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s

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