ToNasty Posted March 29, 2013 Report Posted March 29, 2013 I don't have a fuse on my alt wire. the run is so short I said it. its not needed but its just a safety thing ***Super Sellers List***http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/25829-super-sellers-buyers
BrettAlthoff Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Posted March 29, 2013 do i just need one for the entire system or two if i do the big three? because i already have a fuse at 300 amps ready to go.. 2000 oldsmobile alero (2) rockford fosgates 4x6's (2) rockford fosgates 6x9's (1) hifonics zrx2000.10 (2) re adudio se-x d2 12" big three
BrettAlthoff Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Posted March 29, 2013 i lied its a 100 amp fuse upgrade to a 300? 2000 oldsmobile alero (2) rockford fosgates 4x6's (2) rockford fosgates 6x9's (1) hifonics zrx2000.10 (2) re adudio se-x d2 12" big three
BrettAlthoff Posted March 29, 2013 Author Report Posted March 29, 2013 ahh crap are they really.. 2000 oldsmobile alero (2) rockford fosgates 4x6's (2) rockford fosgates 6x9's (1) hifonics zrx2000.10 (2) re adudio se-x d2 12" big three
Ben Fultz Posted March 29, 2013 Report Posted March 29, 2013 do i just need one for the entire system or two if i do the big three? because i already have a fuse at 300 amps ready to go.. You still need a fuse on your charge lead coming from alternator to battery. ( You're fusing to protect the wire not your "system")
95legwagon Posted March 29, 2013 Report Posted March 29, 2013 yea...in fact i say lose the cap.... it will do more harm than good in your setup. big 3 in 1/0Nope Just curious, what's your reasoning for this? Because some caps help, not all caps are bad. Edit for more details: was going to just leave it at that but I couldn't. Ok yes there are junk caps out there that don't do any good. But there are good ones as well. Best thing you can do is get a DMM and do actual tests on your vehicle to see where your voltage is with and without it. I'm not going to get into the argument of good cap/bad cap there are a ton of threads on the subject already. i wont argue..... you sir are in fact correct...... i agree 100% i just personally think it will hinder more than it would help in this case. i too have run different caps and noticed different things about them.... lol needless to say....i dont like caps. They HAVE proven to be useful in the right scenerio its just the matter of having the right scenario and a good cap lol i think there real i was looking through that guys stuff he sells and it looks like he finds stuff at auctions and just sells it Yea, it looks like someone got the mids about a month ago....shit. If I had a whole Hertz front stage my ears would jizz all over my cheeks. / LOL My Low Budget Build: Green 1995 Subaru Legacy wagon 147k- $1K headunit- pioneer premier deh-p650-$25 4 Lead acid batts. 1 up front and 3 in back- vented outside.- $50 4 vvme L11 10"s <- $30 shipped a piece 6 cu. ft box (after displacment) tuned to 32ish hz with 10 inch sonotube. -about $50 all together maybe a lil more 2 aspm 1300 strapped Selenium 6"s in the front doors on headunit power- for now -$20 quantum tweets in door-for now -$10 boston acoustic 5 1/4 in rear doors- for now-Free big 3 1/0 and 4awg throughout. roof sound deadened (not peel n seal ftw)-free on 80 amp alt (bench tested to put out 100 amps faithfully) <--?-$10 for test about $430 for everything<----Not bad at all still gotta add 3 way crossover, amp for front and rear door speakers and maybe eq
Vito Basser Posted March 31, 2013 Report Posted March 31, 2013 I'm not going to talk about caps, I don't like or use them and favour a decent battery (cheap AGM) anyway. With the big 3, you would be better doing it regardless as stock wires barely keep up with the standard electrical system. I don't know what car you have, so you might need to measure the wires up before ordering. Welding wire is as good as any for TB3 with the copper lugs. Just make sure you make a decent crimp/solder, you don't want one of these bad boys coming loose while your driving! The fuse thing, again, this is subjective. I would say if you have never done TB3 before, use one! You can even use a megafuse (made by Littlefuse are the best) 300a one will protect you in the event of a crash or it working it's way loose (extreme temperature changes can do weird things). Fit the fuse as close to the battery as possible. While your at it, make sure you cable tie everything out the way, use Techflex too if it makes you more comfortable, you don't want melted wire either as it will eventually short out on something!
LT.Smoke Posted March 31, 2013 Report Posted March 31, 2013 The big 3 will help whether or not you use the capacitor or not so I would definitely do it and you can tun the cap as well in unison with doing the big 3 Team MaxRetribution Si Vis Pacem Parabellum Id rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6 Bowhunting- Life Begins and Ends at Full Draw Bowhunting Team Fatal Trajectory Hunt Team http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/49335-sick96vtecaccords-t-line-build/?hl=sick96vtecaccord << Accord Build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/68498-smokedout08impalas-tline-build/?hl=+sick96vtecaccord << Impala T-line build Rebassed.com for all your music needs 👌
Tarball Posted March 31, 2013 Report Posted March 31, 2013 BIg 3 - and I know you didn't ask but a quality battery would be a good investment for your power range as well. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
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