Sutliff Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 Just upgraded amps, subs, alternator, did Big 3, tuned with DD-1, etc. - all can be read in my sig lines. When I turn the system up to a decent level, the interior & exterior lights dim & the factory dash OEM volt meter moves all over from 14+ volts to near 9-10V as the bass hits ... I have never dealt with this issue in any vehicle/system I have built before, & that has been quite a few. The dimming happens both at idle & at higher RPMs - like at highway speed(s) - above 2,200RPMs. I will offer what most will state is the immediate problem right off the bat, ... I have single runs of 4awg OFC (POS & NEG) to the back to run both amps. I also "built" my Big 3 out of the same 4awg. For what it is worth, the wiring/cabling is solid, for the 4 gauge that was used, no short cuts, in any way, were taken, & I hope the photos below show just that. I am also running 100A circuit breakers ... one by front BATT, & one EACH within 8" of each amp. Need a higher amperage breaker? (I don't know if that could be a problem, though I really doubt it.) Pics of upgrades .... Ground Lug on firewall ... NEG in from BATT, & NEG out to engine: Tsunami 100A breakers (3) I used: GM "Lug Extenders", ground "lug", & BATT terminals used: Overall, from above: BATT used: MechMan 170A with Big 3 integrated: Part of "network board", & where 4awg runs come into rear terminals & out to breakers, then to amps: Rockford amps: View #2: Can anyone tell me that it could be something more than the 4awg running BOTH amps? Obviously, any info would be helpful ... more than you folks could know. As for me, being disabled, & my Pop being 66, we put a lot of time & energy to do the best we could with what we had to make this look & work/sound the best it could/can. I hope some of you made it this far ... Be good, Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 From what I can tell is that there is not enough reserve power, and it is allowing the voltage to drop. Adding another battery or just a larger AGM upfront should solve this issue. It's a really clean install, great job! 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 It would be good to get rid of that stock battery, that would be the first thing I would do. I have not read very many positive things on circuit breakers for car audio. It would probably be best to switch out to some ANL fuse holders. I would think that there would be some resistance in those 4 gauge runs. Is your big 3 done in 4 gauge or 1/0? Also, make sure your grounds are good. Did you crimp or solder the 4 gauge? '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walwalka Posted June 12, 2013 Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 I would agree with getting rid of the circuit breakers and using ANL fuses. I would recommend a 90 amp fuse on the power from the front to the back, a 40 amp fuse just before the 400-2 and a 50 amp before the 500.1. 2010 Honda Civic LX / Deck: Kenwood DDX371 / Front Highs: Crescendo RTS-1 / Front Mids: Silver Flute 6.5's / 4 channel: DC Audio 90.4 / Sub: Fi 15in SP4v2 / Sub amp: Taramps HD 5000 / Power wire: Knukonceptz OFC 1/0 / Deadener: Audio Technix 60 mil / Batteries: XS Power D5100R / Rear bank: TBD / Alternator: Singer 240a hairpin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutliff Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 From what I can tell is that there is not enough reserve power, and it is allowing the voltage to drop. Adding another battery or just a larger AGM upfront should solve this issue. It's a really clean install, great job! Hmmm, ... Let me look up some info on AGMs as I sit here. ... & thank you very much for the kind words about the install ... will definitely share it with my Dad. If you get a moment, you can read ( http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build/ ) <---- & see what I have been doing since day 1, more than a year ago. I have a ton of photos, including the above, to post along with more dialog concerning certain reasons I did what & why ... I just finished up & had to take a roadie to Oak Ridge, TN ... 30 miles west of Knoxville, ... I discovered the dimming driving down the road last Thursday night as I rolled through Knox, & considered stopping into MechMan (HQ in Knox) on Friday to see what they had to say, but I did not. I kind of kick myself for not doing it .... I would love their input as well, & them seeing everything up-close. Oh, well. Many of you folks will have just as terrific ideas, facts anyway .... Maybe MechMan will see it anyhow ... Maybe I will Tweet them &/or Facebook 'em ... & see what happens. Thank you nonetheless, Sir. Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutliff Posted June 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2013 It would be good to get rid of that stock battery, that would be the first thing I would do. I have not read very many positive things on circuit breakers for car audio. It would probably be best to switch out to some ANL fuse holders. I would think that there would be some resistance in those 4 gauge runs. Is your big 3 done in 4 gauge or 1/0? Also, make sure your grounds are good. Did you crimp or solder the 4 gauge? I did the Big 3 in 4awg ... the same 4awg cable that I made my runs with. Everything after the POS & NEG runs into the distribution blocks is KNU Kolossus Fleks 4awg. ONLY 4 GAUGE was used in this build. The ONLY crimp in the system is in the Big 3, & that is the ground lug for the ENGINE NEG from the ground block on the firewall - which are pictured above). The 4awg runs to the back are approximately 14 feet long, maybe even slightly shorter. The alternator's POS cable to the BATT POS is a rather expensive set-screw ring terminal. NO soldering in the system whatsoever. Everything else is connected through the terminal blocks with nice stripped bare wire & set-screws. I am 100% sure the grounds are solid. Thank you for replying, & if you have any more to add, please do ... Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutliff Posted June 13, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2013 Bump. (Maybe some other, or similar ideas being it is a little busier time of the day/night here on SMD.) Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 Dropping like that means you are sucking more juice than you are making - big time! Check voltage at AMP when bass hits. Do Big 3 in 1/0 Replace bat with AGM verify what track was used while setting gains with DD-1 Upgrade the wire from your battery/alt to your cars fuse block. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WastedTalent Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 x2 on tarball. 4 gauge is better than factory but, do the big 3 in 1/0. AGM will definitely improve your voltage. dk what else to say since tarball hit that on the head. Sheena = pedobear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted June 14, 2013 Report Share Posted June 14, 2013 The ground block is placed in a bad spot and might have a tad to much resistance, extend all your grounds to the negative post on the alt and ground from there. The best ground locations are where you have the most metal and that is usually the strut towers but since you alt has a ground post i would use that instead and have a wire run to the strut tower for chassis ground. If you are still having issues with dimming then you might want to go up to 1/0 and add another battery in back for reserve capacity. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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