lockdown801 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 I am currently building a 2010 Yukon Denali. Can you explain the issue you had with your alt? I am doing 2 370 amp mechman with a MLA module hooked up to it and a ton of 1/0 gauge wire. Did you have any issues with removing the head liner? I have the rear screen and ambient sensors all over. Where do you plan on running the power wire? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 Can a ADMIN PLEASE move this out of the GEN section and to the MEMBERS build section? Is that possible? Thanks... (reported my own post) SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 My personal use, 2500bdcp on 2-12T1's at 2ohms nominal. Never cared about rise. This was with voltage that never saw below 13.6. So, it was putting out some current. WITH the boost nob, and volume nob on my .2 dsp. Only got them smelly one time, and it was my fault on not setting the SSF when i installed and set up my .2. Other than that, i ran the hell outta those. Sold them as NEW. And the guy is abusing them to this day. Also, there was a member on here,, name of like.. REAUDIOBUFF or something. He ran 2 T-2's on TWO yes 2 2500bdcps for months. Pounded the hell outta them...I just ran a search, and found him.. but not his posted vids. All that said, where i think the RF subs get dumped on a bit here... And i stick up for them where, and when i feel i should,.. FOR THE PRICE, you can get better. And, again, i am A RF nut hugger. But, facts are facts, and the "other" drivers, do speak for themselves.... Good luck bro. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 yeah you can get better for the price but if you can managed to getthe t2 series at around $400 each then its worth it. got mine at a buy one get one free sale. paid 800 for the 2 of them. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 11, 2013 Report Share Posted July 11, 2013 EDIT - NVM SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sodfamily Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 Here are some idea's of trim and box set up we did in a 2001 Tahoe Head Unit: Alpine CDA 9887 Sub Amps: 4 RF2500's Subs: 8 SA-12's Walled Comp Amp: 1 RF600.2 (for now) Comps: (4) 6.5 Punch Mid Pros and 2 Punch Pro Tweeters Batteries: (1) XS D5100 (5) D3100 Power Cables: 2 runs of 2/0 power and ground each front to back(Try-Star) Alternator: Dual Mechman Rhino 250's Deadener: Fatmat / Damplifier Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 FUCK thats tits!.. love the colors SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mha Posted July 12, 2013 Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 I allso have a pcm alt. And wanted to try this fix. So u just left all the factory grounds on and added a 0gauge ground to the stock oem fuse? Did u have to disconnect the original wire? Did u have to add a bigger fuse? The oem is 175amp. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 I am currently building a 2010 Yukon Denali. Can you explain the issue you had with your alt? I am doing 2 370 amp mechman with a MLA module hooked up to it and a ton of 1/0 gauge wire. Did you have any issues with removing the head liner? I have the rear screen and ambient sensors all over. Where do you plan on running the power wire? As far as removing headliner, seemed simple but very time consuming. Take EVERY panel off that appears to be holding it up, because, they ARE holding it up. Take your time and do it right, don't break anything etc. The headliner does not snap in or anything, just basically held up by all the plastic pillars and panels. You will most likely have to use 2 people, one inside the vehicle and one outside the hatch/back the headliner will prolly have to come out at an angle, mine was too wide to just fit right out the hatch. Might have to make seats lower or remove them to be able to turn it to get it out. Some what of a different vehicle though. Also, i took all AC/heat vent off/out of it first also. the lights need to be unplugged as well. i just removed mine. Time consuming but rather easy and definitely tedious part of the uninstall. As far as the alt goes, not sure once you add the second one but more me mine is internally regulated and PCM controlled. 2005 and new GM vehicles have the potential to have a sensor around the ground wire about 10" from the factory battery that is measuring the current draw through the vehicle/ground and thus the PCM knows how much the alt needs to charge. The normal big 3 will not work correctly for this application. Also, the sensor is a black plastic ring with wires and a plug running up to it, easy to find, nothing else like it on ground. You will only fit 1 run of 1/0 gauge through it. There will also be a negative running to your battery from factory that has to go back through it once this whole step is done but anyways, per Mechman do not add extra grounds under the hood. Of course add a positive run or two from alt to battery, don't eliminate any factory positive runs but for negative on battery remove the factory one going to engine, and add 1 run of 1/0 gauge or even 2/0 gauge straight from alt to battery (and that little guy i mentioned above) basically you want as many or all grounds going through the sensor so that it reads as much current flow as possible thus helping to tell your PCM to crank that alt up with the power output or something. I hope that all makes sense. Of course you will still have to ground the batteries in back by the amps. Now as far as adding 2 alts you will of course have to ask Mechman how they want you to set that up. Any other questions please feel free to ask. Running my power wire, usually i am a completely internal type of guy when it comes to wire running, it's easy considering i gut every vehicle to run sound deadener anyways plus with MN winters i just like knowing that everything is protected well. However, with this current vehicle it seems after looking around inside, outside, under etc. that i might just run the power wire under neath and be done with it. There is lots of room under there and i can easily run along the frame rail inside a plastic pipe if i need to and zip tie it up and out of site. The more you are running the easier this route might be for you also. I am running 2 of 1/0 gauge from front to back. I am having them come up along the passenger side inside where the bottom rear cover is. There is a perfect flat spot with nothing underneath i can drill a couple holes and bring them in. I am still gonna use some firewall grommets for 1/0 gauge i ordered (posted pics. a few pages ago) and prolly even still silicone them up good. That is just my own personal preference at the moment. 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2013 yeah you can get better for the price but if you can managed to getthe t2 series at around $400 each then its worth it. got mine at a buy one get one free sale. paid 800 for the 2 of them. Yea, I agree. I know there is better subs out there but i kinda wanted to stick to all Rockford for this build and I did NOT pay even close to MSRP on the equipment, lets just leave it at that. haha Now if Rockford had a T3 subwoofer line that would be something to look at, LOL 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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