Karkov Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Posted July 12, 2013 Here are some idea's of trim and box set up we did in a 2001 Tahoe I absolutely LOVE that setup. I have thought about that upper beauty plate/baffle thing as well to fit nicely and hide the sides of box but it's way better seeing a pic. of one than imagining one, lol. My problem is though i need 6 inches behind the sub box for port and I'm not sure if i can fit my batteries back there. i am trying to keep a stock look some what and none of the batteries fit inside the rear panels either. Under the vehicle is out, MN winters. the rear set of seats have NO room under them which is unlike former Tahoe's so no amps there either. Box will be tight against those seats to get me the 6" behind it so I don't think i can mount amps to the front of the box as you did there. I'm thinking i might have to have amp racks blocking the rear side windows or something which i really didn't want to do but i can't hide them anywhere else. Either way that setup is BOMB!! I love it. thanks for sharing!!!! 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0
Karkov Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Posted July 12, 2013 I allso have a pcm alt. And wanted to try this fix. So u just left all the factory grounds on and added a 0gauge ground to the stock oem fuse? Did u have to disconnect the original wire? Did u have to add a bigger fuse? The oem is 175amp. Thanks No, you have to remove some factory grounds. that 175 amps fuse is on the positive side so you really don't need to do anything to it. You will add an aftermarket positive run from alt to battery and an aftermarket negative from alt to battery if you got the sensor. if you don't have the sensor then the regular big 3 will prolly work just fine. I'm assuming leaving the factory positive and negative runs alone and just adding to them will be fine without a sensor but you might wanna ask around about that. The more grounds the better just in case but again might wanna ask around. Is your volt meter fluctuating now or what are you trying to fix? What vehicle? 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0
Mha Posted July 12, 2013 Report Posted July 12, 2013 I have a 2007 escalade ext with a mechman pcm 270amp alt and my voltage starts at 14.4 but drops to 12.9 0r so when running. Thats what im trin to fix. What factory grounds did u get rid of to stop it from dropping
Mha Posted July 12, 2013 Report Posted July 12, 2013 Ok so just add a positive and a negative from alt to battery nothing else? But wich factory grounds do I remove the engine block one?
Karkov Posted July 12, 2013 Author Report Posted July 12, 2013 Ok so just add a positive and a negative from alt to battery nothing else? But wich factory grounds do I remove the engine block one? Correct. run that negative from alt straight to battery (aftermarket one). Make sure each wire is at least 1/0 gauge and make sure they are the same of course. Yes, I removed the ground from battery to engine and ran that little other ground which the vehicle needs in my sensor next to my aftermarket run. Basically don't add any battery to frame, body to frame, alt to frame, etc. grounds. That is per Mechman. I'm not sure if you got that sensor but i'mm assuming you do? You want as much current flow through that ground sensor as possible thus why you want to eliminate all grounds under hood except what can go through that sensor. Also, why you want to run battery to alt direct so flow isn't having to go through whole vehicle and then have the sensor read it. Keep in mind that PCM controlled alts will never perform as well as non-PCM controlled alts. Even Mechman tells us that. What the exact difference is I could not tell you. My alt is internally regulated otherwise I would have run an external regulator. Damn PCM.... 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0
lockdown801 Posted July 12, 2013 Report Posted July 12, 2013 Also if you want to stop the voltage fluctuation check these guys out. http://www.missinglinkaudio.com/ There are some people on youtube and this forum who have used them. Seems to be a solid device. If you call them they will answer your questions. The website is outdated but they have them for the 2 pin alts now as well as multiple alts. But if you do more than one alt the extra alts have to be 4 pin.
alaskanzx5 Posted July 13, 2013 Report Posted July 13, 2013 from my understanding Rockford is working on better subs. something that's suppose to me similar to the t2 subs but a slight power handling increase. told the new ones should be a bit more spl friendly but cost no more then the t2 subs do now (msrp). told this by a friend who works as a general manager at a Rockford dealer. said there rep was saying that they are gonna try to go bigger with their next sub improvements.i think they are wanting to try to get back to having subs like the team rf ones. they just haven't been the same since then. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
JasonJones Posted July 13, 2013 Report Posted July 13, 2013 Biggest suggestion would be to put some type of deadener/absorber in the rear panels above the taillights. Those things rattle like a mofo and make the most annoying sound. Build looks good though! On the exterior. Obviously hit up the entire inside because the D-pillars have ginormous holes in them that bleed like a bitch I'm sure. But once you remove the outer panel(literally outside the truck) you will see. The outer D-pillars are literally made out of plastic and slap against the metal exterior if the truck. By FAR the most annoying thing I've EVER heard... Also, the door locks rattle too(metal arm bar) so use something to decrease that if you can.
DylanBunch Posted July 13, 2013 Report Posted July 13, 2013 from my understanding Rockford is working on better subs. something that's suppose to me similar to the t2 subs but a slight power handling increase. told the new ones should be a bit more spl friendly but cost no more then the t2 subs do now (msrp). told this by a friend who works as a general manager at a Rockford dealer. said there rep was saying that they are gonna try to go bigger with their next sub improvements. i think they are wanting to try to get back to having subs like the team rf ones. they just haven't been the same since then. for like a quarter of a second I regretted preordering a sundown..... cant wait to see and hear a new Rockford sub 2006 Ford Explorer 2 Team AA/Sundown 15s 6th order Ct Sounds 7k 4 PRV Mr500 8s Rockford p1000-2 Team Subsonic Lows
Karkov Posted July 14, 2013 Author Report Posted July 14, 2013 Well a few minor updates today folks, making progress slowly but surely. Waiting for a couple more things to come in the mail Monday so i can button up the interior (minus installing mids/highs) Added an additional run of 1/0 gauge from the alt to battery positive side making it 2 runs of 1/0 gauge now. Since there will be 2 runs of 1/0 gauge going to the back of the vehicle i figure i might as well keep it the same from alt to batt to batt etc. I know the wires are a mess in the pic. not cleaned up yet at the time. Also, on the positive post you can see the terminal where 2 runs of 1/0 gauge will move to the next battery whether it be under hood or in rear of vehicle. Hows it all looking so far folks? And of course the negative. Added a 8 gauge battery to body ground and ran it through the sensor, hope it's right, lol 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.