Swordlordboy1234 Posted July 26, 2013 Report Posted July 26, 2013 So lately my voltage has been slightly weird. I always questioned my alternator, because tenney, so I went to a local battery guru. (Not the run of the mill alternator battery guy) he has been doing this stuff for almost 30 years in the same spot, and has a huge shop. Anyways, he was slightly shocked to see what I had under my hood and in my trunk. But I told him my concerns about diodes and stuff, so he out on his snap on alternator tester. Found out I'm charging 14.2 solid, my diodes are perfect even after 8+ months of abuse. And the alternator was putting out almost rated power... (How the fuck? It's a tenney) he rated me at about 115 at idle and about 190 max. I still wanna replace it when I can but that was a relief knowing it was still strong. So we tested front battery vs rear battery. And front battery was 14.2 and the rear was 13.85. Does that mean I need a second run of 1/0? Maybe replace my current run with OFC, and even add a second run? My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?
SnowDrifter Posted July 26, 2013 Report Posted July 26, 2013 No load, that's your voltage? Just resting? Under load that's normal. But sitting there with no load... That's not. Go outside and manually re-tighten/inspect all connections. If they check out, replace your fuses. Make sure your rear batt is charged too. If it's drained, I'd expect some voltage drop ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
tacomaguy1 Posted July 26, 2013 Report Posted July 26, 2013 I've had a bad ground throw off the voltages from front to back Team Flex Issues
Swordlordboy1234 Posted July 26, 2013 Author Report Posted July 26, 2013 Ill check all connections then. I've been nightly charging my batteries for a few days now. Ill also add a run outside the car to test if I get better voltage to the rear before I run it in the car. Could this also mean my grounding point in the back isn't good enough to hold the current I'm putting through it? This was with no load applied other then AC and system on low. Front battery was 14.2 and rear was 13.85 Edit : all connections are crimped properly, but I am using SHCA CCA, not OFC. I'm sure that might help the drop from front to rear batteries. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?
Soccerballzs Posted July 29, 2013 Report Posted July 29, 2013 That is normal for long run from front to trunk. There is resistance in the run of cable. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/I Pioneer P99RSAmpere 38002-Ampere 125/44-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer 2-5.25 Satori Mids2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars2-Hertz Silk tweeters DC Audio Level 5/12 Skyhigh Wire Mechman 320 XS Power D3100MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/
NancyDrew Posted August 2, 2013 Report Posted August 2, 2013 I assume both positive terminals are connected together on the batts, your voltage should read the same. This would be your total voltage. I would also assume you have the front and back battery grounded to the main frame support under the vehicle? If not I would do that to ensure the battery electrons flow out the ground and to the positive with less resistance. The grounds are more then likely your culprit. From my exp. in this both batt. if grounded properly should read the same. There should be no difference unless it was under a load. But at rest, should read the same. Grounding the batt. in the rear of the vehicle is not the same, as grounding it to the frame rail support, both batts should have a ground to it with equal size wire, NOT 4awg and one 0awg. Again the electrons flow from neg back to the positive.
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