big dee Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 I've never had a sub catch fire . If it was my decision I wound build subs with fire retardant spiders.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncc74656 Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 i wish i had taken a picture while it was on fire. i was preoccupied with preventing my ceiling from catching fire tho... im going ot recone it and get more info on proper tuning. i had a BL in the same configuration and it did not blow. the bass boost was remote controlled by a knob on the seat, the bass boost on the amp was not used. that said the bass boost knob on the seat was set from 0-40% so what ever level 40% is was the max the knob was marked at and thats the most the sub got. so would i be correct in saying that having a large amp than required and running it at lower gains is better than having an amp that is at rated power but higher gains? nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nikitaaa Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Clipping is just theoretically "extra power" the speaker is seeing, is it not? I wouldn't say that clipping alone made That sub catch fire, but the huge amount of extra power the sub saw due to the clipping. Not sure if any of that made sense.. lol 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncc74656 Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 must be a crap load of extra power to set fire to the leads like this... nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leo1103 Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 I could be wrong but a clipped signal does not allow a subwoofer to cool properly, also not sure if this would affect the tinsels but it would affect the coil 2002 Honda CR-VAlpine 9887My BuildRebuilding... Second Skin Damp 4 DC XL 15's 2 DC 5ks Singer 320 amp 6 cap banksSky High wire 2 VM-1's OM-1 all under window line Team DC Audio Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way. I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncc74656 Posted August 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 i found this site: http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm it covers it all in great detail. by what i understand now an unclipped signal should provide louder bass than a clipped one as the sub is able to have greater Xmax with a clean signal. its quite counter intuitive at first that lower power can provide more bass than higher power. hence the desire to keep turning up the volume instead of turning it down. nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeamHT Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 I love bcae but, this is just another example of where science does not always translate. Clipping can definitely get louder than an uncapped signal, and many in the lanes will push into clipping if and when needed Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 I could be wrong but a clipped signal does not allow a subwoofer to cool properly, also not sure if this would affect the tinsels but it would affect the coil this is how i've been understanding it. clipped signal causes the woofer to literally stop moving at its top and bottom peaks. no air movement in the motor = no cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 I don't think the cone can brake fast enough to literally just stop in the clipped portion of the signal long enough to make a difference in the cooling theory. . .not to mention 30 Hz literally means the cone is moving in and out 30 times per second, clipped or not. Mike Edgar did a big test on clipping. Ran square waves into several different drivers at their RMS power rating and did not damage ANY of them. The issue is that a clipped signal has a higher RMS voltage which means higher average power. If the amp does not self destruct, you could get 2X the rated RMS power with a fully clipped square wave. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortezDTV Posted August 11, 2013 Report Share Posted August 11, 2013 One more thing I'm really surprised hasn't been said Kinda stunning Burning a sub like that isn't caused from clipping.... Easiest way to have that happen and burn the spiders is not setting your crossover correctly and feeding the sub higher than 80 hz It's hard to catch a sub on fire so for most who say "I have seen it happen multiple times " I call BULLSHIT. Your burning the leads LMAO I've done that before with an amp that didnt have a crossover..... SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.