BboyTaktix Posted August 22, 2013 Report Posted August 22, 2013 yes. Used it in my last build which was a 2009 cobalt. I did the roof, both doors (was a coupe), rear deck and the whole trunk. I was quite happy with the way it turned out. Almost no shaking afterwards. Also, when I cranked the system then went outside the car and shut the doors, it REALLY cut the sound. Then I opened the door and heard the bass/highs flow out. I also used 'great stuff' expanding foam (window one - least expanding one) in the roof around the edges and in the trunk lid between the cracks. I know it is less expensive than dynamat, but I think it does just as good a job. In terms of damping, it won't make much of a difference between fatmat/dynamat so long as the thickness is more or less the same (I believe both products are some type of butyl with foil on them so similar vibration damping properties on a sheet metal panel) 2018 Golf R - Stealth SQ system build - C508GTI front (active), 2x Pioneer Z10LS4, Zapco DSPZ8, Clarion DPX11551 (Mono amp), Pioneer GM-D8604 (front stage amp), Pioneer GM-A3702 (rear fill amp) SOLD! 2011 Subaru STI - 'modest' passive sq system - JBL p660c component (front) JBL P662 (rear) JBL W10GTI (sealed enclosure) 4ch JBL GO1004 (150RMSx4), Clarion DPX11551 mono amp (+-1200RMS@3ohms)
Airborne Posted August 22, 2013 Report Posted August 22, 2013 ^^?? I have used it and it SUCks! I tried to save money and got a couple of rolls of it. I prepped the doors like I was about to perform brain surgery and that shit FELL OFF! Gummed up my window regulator and was a bitch to get off of the window... I have Damp Pro on everything now and you can put it on a dirty panel and it will NOT come off...
bassbang89 Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Posted August 22, 2013 Well I have a 2000 Saturn and just wanted to test it and only bought 10sq ft and figured it would do most of my trunk and if it falls off I guess I won't have to peel it off if I don't like it...ant other suggestions? BASS_BANG
audiofanaticz Posted August 22, 2013 Report Posted August 22, 2013 Fatmat is junk.. It adds mass, but thats about it. Its not butyl, its made from asphalt. During hot temps above 110degrees F the asphalt will start to stink, also at that point the asphalt loses its ability to remain tacky enough to hold the product upside down, or vertically ( like on your roof, trunk lid, or doors). People love to argue against this, but even after vigours cleaning of the metal before applying the product it still failed. The only product that the company offers as butyl base is the "mega mat" and at those prices, better and thicker deadeners can be bought. Fat mat, and rattle trap say nothing on their website about those 2 lines being asphalt or butyl, they just claim rubber compound. Very misleading, since they have no problem calling the mega mat butyl (thats even if it is true butyl and not some mix of the 2)... The whole company is based around half truths. From googling their name "fatmat" and it poping up as the Dynamate alternitive when its far far from! Or how they claim their 70mil deadener is the thickest of them all when others are only 67mil... The basic fatmat is only 50mil, thats thin! Companies like Murder Mat offer 80mil and 90mil, while companies like knukoncepts knuknoise offers 80mil and 100mil. Also both these 2 companies have there dampener made at the same place and are butyl based, and goes the same for the AudioTechnix. SecondSkin Damplifier 60mil, and Damplifier Pro 80mil are also great, bit on the pricer side but are solid sheets of butyl deadener with a thick rigid aluminum layer which i love, but sucks for going around big curves. If you take a digial caliper to the second skin, audio technix, murdermat, and knukoncepts product you will find that these companies mats are a tad thicker then they claim, even if you put pressure on your caliper and hae it make an indentation into the butyl it will still be reading slightly thicker then its sold as. Quality products no doubt! As for the fatmat product. Generic, and judging by the roll size, wax paper, and the little ridge like groves in their "patiented rubber forumla" and their 50mil thickness it is nothing more then Protect-o-wrap which is used for roofing on houses, and can be bought for a lot less then what fatmat wants. To be honest, I dont even think a legit deadener company even makes a 50mil product.....
Omega5002 Posted August 22, 2013 Report Posted August 22, 2013 Fatmat = Overpriced Peel and SealOwner of fatmat owns a roofing company 2003 Kia Sorento Team Subsonic LowsTeam Bassin' on a Budget2016 Rebuild Under Construction Best score: 150.2 at 40hz (3k, 2 Custom HDC3 15's) Usaci style(door open, in the kick)
CstrokerV Posted August 22, 2013 Report Posted August 22, 2013 used it and then used second skin a world of difference won't touch the stuff again my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/
bassbang89 Posted August 22, 2013 Author Report Posted August 22, 2013 yes. Used it in my last build which was a 2009 cobalt. I did the roof, both doors (was a coupe), rear deck and the whole trunk. I was quite happy with the way it turned out. Almost no shaking afterwards. Also, when I cranked the system then went outside the car and shut the doors, it REALLY cut the sound. Then I opened the door and heard the bass/highs flow out. I also used 'great stuff' expanding foam (window one - least expanding one) in the roof around the edges and in the trunk lid between the cracks. I know it is less expensive than dynamat, but I think it does just as good a job. In terms of damping, it won't make much of a difference between fatmat/dynamat so long as the thickness is more or less the same (I believe both products are some type of butyl with foil on them so similar vibration damping properties on a sheet metal panel) Did you buy yours from Amazon BASS_BANG
Airborne Posted August 22, 2013 Report Posted August 22, 2013 if you are hell bent on using this stuff then save some money and go to Lowe's, Home Depot or and building supply store and get some peal and seal. There is NO DIFFERENCE between Fatmat and Peal and Seal. I got a roll of Peal and Seal years ago to give it a shot and they are identical, and the chit at Lowe's was way cheaper
CstrokerV Posted August 22, 2013 Report Posted August 22, 2013 yes. Used it in my last build which was a 2009 cobalt. I did the roof, both doors (was a coupe), rear deck and the whole trunk. I was quite happy with the way it turned out. Almost no shaking afterwards. Also, when I cranked the system then went outside the car and shut the doors, it REALLY cut the sound. Then I opened the door and heard the bass/highs flow out. I also used 'great stuff' expanding foam (window one - least expanding one) in the roof around the edges and in the trunk lid between the cracks. I know it is less expensive than dynamat, but I think it does just as good a job. In terms of damping, it won't make much of a difference between fatmat/dynamat so long as the thickness is more or less the same (I believe both products are some type of butyl with foil on them so similar vibration damping properties on a sheet metal panel) Did you buy yours from Amazon so you ignored every ones else post good job!!!! It's junk compared to a good product not worth wasting the money on it my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/
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