ThwopKing Posted October 9, 2013 Author Report Posted October 9, 2013 Only reason I plan in adding in larger alt is for when I add my winch and auxiliary lights and plan on going to 2500-3000w on total system. And there is a thread on here that shows a cap was pretty useless on a 2k system at normal play unless it was a 100 farad cap. .. But at burst it was worth a gain. But I'm not going to be doing a burst only system. 2012 Toyota 4Runner Trail Edition-Singer 240A Alt, Odyssey Battery,Pioneer AVH-2550NEX head-unit, Pioneer GM-DX874 powering Kicker CSS67 front-CSC5 rear, and Memphis PR 1.1000 powering 12in SSA ICON in G.P. ported box. 2003 Tahoe-320A Alt, Odyssey Batt,2 Resilient Sounds Gold 15's sealed powered by Crescendo BC2000D, Turbulent Designs Ported box AVH601EX head unit and Pioneer 3ways in all doors.
pioneerforlife Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 Ya for a 2500-3000 watt system, winch, and auxiliary lights you will definitely need a HO alt along with some extra batts. When you get your new alt look at singer alternators. Mike will build you one made specifically foe your system. You can also look into mechman and dc power. And as far as batteries I would go with xs power all the way. 2007 Ford Focus SES Hatchback Pioneer HU 4 Digital Designs 9515i's in a B pillar. 2 Soundstream XXX 15K's (running at 16 volts) Soundstream Mids/Highs in custom door panels (getting rebuilt soon) Soundstream TA2.160 and TA2.400 Sky High and KNU wiring 3 Banks of Maxwell caps Winston Lithium (not a fan) Bump4Life 250 Amp Alt. aka USAlternators Soundstream Focus and Avenger Build Log Instagram @p4linnovation YouTube: Team Blowin Loud
rockFord_Expedition Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 Sorry about the misspelling. ..I had two strippers talking my ear off. Thanks for all the help guys, after reading a lot of this I've decided to go ahead and do the big 3. Now to cap or not to cap..... after some of the other things I've read it may not even be worth it lolIt is... if you #1-have the funds and #2-the right cap. There are plenty of caps out there and some/most are bullshit. If you get a legit one, it'll help. Tony I believe it was, did a test showing that even on a small system, a cap will help. It's on this site somewhere... And #1A a proper electrical set up to support it Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
TeamHT Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 moral of this thread.... If you want something done right you have to do it yourself. Tell me...does this smell like chloroform to you?
David Bailey Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 I wonder about an installer that doesn't research things like the big 3 before making an assumption like that. All he has to do is goggle it, and find out out why it is beneficial to car audio. And the fact that is so simple. Electricity follows the path of least resistance. <--BASIC Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1
Neckbeard Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 Car audio is gonna get a whole lot harder for him when i does his first big install and doesn't do the big 3. Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
STEALTH808 Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 Either this story is bullshit or you are making this guy look good. If he installs on a daily, he has a DMM. If he uses a DMM then he knows the basics of DC current. How would the big 3 restrict current? DITCH THIS RETARD. He is not an installer. TEAM SUNDOWN HAWAIIHAWAIICARAUDIO.NET 150Db Club 160Db club in the future I see krakin as a threat
Soccerballzs Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 Hey have Jeep here dimming lights was a big issue until I did the big 3. Run ground to your engine of battery also. Run straight 1 or 4 gauge to battery. If you run higher output alternator in stay with lowest gauge wire. The 160 amp alternator is still weak. Installed XS Power D3100 in rear. I also ran 0 gauge body ground also. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/I Pioneer P99RSAmpere 38002-Ampere 125/44-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer 2-5.25 Satori Mids2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars2-Hertz Silk tweeters DC Audio Level 5/12 Skyhigh Wire Mechman 320 XS Power D3100MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/
finkster Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 Can we see pics of your current setup? Like, from your battery to your amp. Thanks. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living
Guest Posted October 9, 2013 Report Posted October 9, 2013 installer of the decade over here. big 3 is like the simplest cheapest shit you can do to better your cars electrical system. even CAR AUDIO NOOBS know this. i mean for fucks sake LOL.
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.