soundstream15 Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 I have a 02 grand am. I do have the engine block ground, grounded but it needs cleaned up good. I have a HO alt. Mechman told me to ground to my alt casing for a bettet ground bc it will help the alt better. My alt did fail on me, but it got fixed. Regulator went bad. He said that was part of the issue as well. So is there a difference
SnowDrifter Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 Alt casing IMO. Its ultimately what you are trying to do. If mechman told you what to do why are you asking here? He made the alt... Knows more about it than anyone here ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
g2shuck Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 so are you saying to ground the battery to the alt, the engine to the alt, or the chassis to the alt? 2000 Toyota Camry With Sealed Off Trunk Sky High OFC Wiring DC Power 270 XP Alt AQ 2200 Sub Amp Two DC Level 4 m2 12s 80 Mil Murdetmat Gathering Parts For Wall Build. Team DC Audio 2014 Member
SnowDrifter Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 I think it may be time to do a quick review on the big 3. At least the way I like to do it 1. Alt charging post to battery positive 2. Battery ground to frame (if applicable) or strut tower (if applicable) 3. Alt casing to frame/strut tower 4. If your car has a frame, ground the frame to the body of the vehicle too. In both the front and rear of the car. Then same thing in the back of the car. All amps grounded to batteries(if you have them), then the batteries(or amps) grounded to the frame/strut tower. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
g2shuck Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 I have 1 2 and 4 done looks like I need to ground the alt case. Luckily I have about 3 feet of shca 1/0 ofc left over from my install yesterday 2000 Toyota Camry With Sealed Off Trunk Sky High OFC Wiring DC Power 270 XP Alt AQ 2200 Sub Amp Two DC Level 4 m2 12s 80 Mil Murdetmat Gathering Parts For Wall Build. Team DC Audio 2014 Member
Wicks Posted October 18, 2013 Report Posted October 18, 2013 I think it may be time to do a quick review on the big 3. At least the way I like to do it 1. Alt charging post to battery positive 2. Battery ground to frame (if applicable) or strut tower (if applicable) 3. Alt casing to frame/strut tower 4. If your car has a frame, ground the frame to the body of the vehicle too. In both the front and rear of the car. Then same thing in the back of the car. All amps grounded to batteries(if you have them), then the batteries(or amps) grounded to the frame/strut tower. THIS^^^ If you're properly grounded (as stated above) then there is no reason to ground the engine block. Other then if you want to decrease your voltage drop while cranking the engine. Your system shouldn't be playing at that time anyway so its mostly pointless. A factory setup grounds the alternator through the engine block, but a factory system doesn't require HUGE current draws like those required by large amplifiers. This post sent with 100% recycled electrons. 2004 BMW M3Mechman 280A 2 - XS Power XP30001 - XS Power D375 500F of Maxwell SuperCaps (soon to be 1000F) iPadMini2Dash mounted O-scopeAudison bitOne (Remote DRC MP) Highs Amp - PPI Art A404 Hertz HSK130 (HSK165 waiting...) DC Audio DC9.0K 2- DC Audio XL12m2LEGAL - 147.3dB @ 41Hz OUTLAW - 150.2dB @ 45Hz OUTLAW - 145.7dB @ 30Hz JUNE 2014 SOTM WINNER 2014 COLORADO PEOPLE'S CHOICE WINNER SOTM BUILD:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-bass-turbo-button-and-a-big-new-addition/page-68#entry2802026
soundstream15 Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Posted October 18, 2013 Awesome, just wanted to make sure that the Alt bracket is better
Tarball Posted October 20, 2013 Report Posted October 20, 2013 Awesome, just wanted to make sure that the Alt bracket casing is better CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
finkster Posted October 21, 2013 Report Posted October 21, 2013 I have a 02 grand am. I do have the engine block ground, grounded but it needs cleaned up good. I have a HO alt. Mechman told me to ground to my alt casing for a bettet ground bc it will help the alt better. My alt did fail on me, but it got fixed. Regulator went bad. He said that was part of the issue as well. So is there a difference When the alt is running, electricity starts and ends there. So you need to optimize the path to and from the alt. Think about the path the electricity is taking to get to each destination. DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living
Rich Schenk Posted October 23, 2013 Report Posted October 23, 2013 Thankyou learned something else new was wondering the same thing about alternator ground. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
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