smashedz28 Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 My guess is the amp even though you tried another one. You ruled out the h/u. Remote wire is iffy. Maybe try a 3rd amp if possible. Re check power and grounds again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awhitewookie Posted November 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Just hooked up one of the amps to my shop PSU setup and it works perfectly. I'll move ground after work MY BUILD 1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport 1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything Alpine cda-9884 Crescendo CZ components (2) Crescendo bc2000's (2) Jolt 150ah (2) Yellow top optimas (1) Juicebox black cherry addition (1) Mechman 270 avbm miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 Just hooked up one of the amps to my shop PSU setup and it works perfectly. I'll move ground after work This is why I asked if you replaced both amp/subs at the same time. The only thing really left is the wiring. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted November 6, 2013 Report Share Posted November 6, 2013 my guess is your remote lead is enough to turn the amp on. but not really turn it on. meter the lead. does it give you the same results as the power lead? If not problme solved. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awhitewookie Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 That is a good thought N8 but wouldn't that be eliminated by jumping the connection? MY BUILD 1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport 1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything Alpine cda-9884 Crescendo CZ components (2) Crescendo bc2000's (2) Jolt 150ah (2) Yellow top optimas (1) Juicebox black cherry addition (1) Mechman 270 avbm miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted November 7, 2013 Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 I would think that if you did that already with a switch, you've re created your own remote, but if your'e still having the problems after that then it's more than just the remote wire. BTW, if not changing the head unit, I'd advise you running that switch off the ignition wire not the 12v constant just so you don't mistakenly leave it on and drain the battery. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awhitewookie Posted November 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2013 Oh I know man I was just temporarily doing things to troubleshoot but thanks for the reminder MY BUILD 1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport 1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything Alpine cda-9884 Crescendo CZ components (2) Crescendo bc2000's (2) Jolt 150ah (2) Yellow top optimas (1) Juicebox black cherry addition (1) Mechman 270 avbm miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Awhitewookie Posted November 17, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Well its fixed. I'm not 100% sure what it was, but I replaced RCA's, remote, power wire fuse, sub wiring, moved ground MY BUILD 1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport 1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything Alpine cda-9884 Crescendo CZ components (2) Crescendo bc2000's (2) Jolt 150ah (2) Yellow top optimas (1) Juicebox black cherry addition (1) Mechman 270 avbm miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truthsayer Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 Have you pulled HU to inspect everything. truthsayer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockFord_Expedition Posted November 17, 2013 Report Share Posted November 17, 2013 My buddy called me because him amp shut off. I installed this small system EXCEPT the h/u http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168025-05-s2000-single-12-all-fiberglass/ So I take a look at all connections Power- good Ground- good Fuses- good Remote- wire is good but will not turn on amp run new remote, still no turn on jump remote to power, amp turns on install switch to control amp power Amp is on, sub connections good, sub doesn't play but pulses every few seconds check coils- good New amp, same model, same pulse problem New sub, different model, same pulse problem New RCA, same pulse problem Disconnect RCA, use adapter to play music from my phone through RCA, same pulse problem With music playing and amp on, disconnect sub wires and reconnect, split second of normal level and then drop to low and pulse. Confused. Discuss please. Can you explain the switch you installed? Specifically, where is the power coming from? Still the HU? Not sure if this has been asked, I did skim through responses but didn't read thoroughly, but did you measure the voltage of your remote turn on? My first guess is that your HU isn't putting out enough voltage. It's putting out some obviously, but not enough would be my guess. Could also be a bad ground. I would try (one more time, I know you already did this) jumping the turn on from the power. If all is good to go again, what I would do is: Tell your friend to get a new H.U. If he says no, then run the remote turn on from either the fuse box or a wire under the steering column, whatever is best in that vehicle. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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