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Keeping blowing tweets and X-overs. Why?!?!


Karkov

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Just because you are running a 150w amp on a component set doesn't mean the component set actually sees 150w.

Your component set isn't active?

Actually, My component sees ALOT more than that if you count peaks ... but the amplifier is rated at 150 wpc at 50 htz (not the common 1k htz like everyone else) ...

... and yes, My 5.25" component set is running passive ...

Karkov ... Best of luck with your setup Sir. Hope you get things worked out.

Can't wait to see who is actually right here ... actually, I hope I'm wrong with this ...

I'm pretty sure your component set costs atleast 2x probably 3x as much. The crossover won't be the same quality as the crescendo's which are lacking.

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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  • 3 months later...

I run my 're xxx components passive right now. Amp is set to full pass and HU hpf is off. I let the passive crossover do it's job. I do boost the tweets a bit with the eq but leave the bass alone on the eq. No problems . I do plan on running active soon and use my amps crossovers. I will have to turn the gain down on the tweeters so not to over power them.

So any updates?

80prs

Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier

Incriminator IA 10.1

Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors)

4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 

3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash)

DC Audio level 3 12"  custom box designed by joex built by me

AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear

DC 180 alt

99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/

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I run my 're xxx components passive right now. Amp is set to full pass and HU hpf is off. I let the passive crossover do it's job. I do boost the tweets a bit with the eq but leave the bass alone on the eq. No problems . I do plan on running active soon and use my amps crossovers. I will have to turn the gain down on the tweeters so not to over power them.

So any updates?

Thanks for the setup info.

no, no updates man, got everything sitting here but winter sucks, haven't been doing anything outside, it's been below zero for like 2 months. I've only had like 3-4 days off so far this year, always working 8-12 hours a day.

In spring I hope to install my less powerful amps, set with DD-1, then set with CC-1, then see how things go from there.

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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I run my 're xxx components passive right now. Amp is set to full pass and HU hpf is off. I let the passive crossover do it's job. I do boost the tweets a bit with the eq but leave the bass alone on the eq. No problems . I do plan on running active soon and use my amps crossovers. I will have to turn the gain down on the tweeters so not to over power them.

So any updates?

Thanks for the setup info.

no, no updates man, got everything sitting here but winter sucks, haven't been doing anything outside, it's been below zero for like 2 months. I've only had like 3-4 days off so far this year, always working 8-12 hours a day.

In spring I hope to install my less powerful amps, set with DD-1, then set with CC-1, then see how things go from there.

Cool. Hope it works out.

80prs

Arc Audio Xdi 1200.6 (using active crossovers) Freaking awesome amplifier

Incriminator IA 10.1

Focal PS 130v 5.25 (doors)

4" Faital pro Neo (kick panels) 

3" Faital pro Neo and focal tweets( dash)

DC Audio level 3 12"  custom box designed by joex built by me

AGM front, XS 750SE batteries rear

DC 180 alt

99 Toyota Tacoma extra cab

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179476-my-small-build-turned-into-the-ongoing-build/

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I personally think the crossovers were poorly designed and used inferior parts in it's construction which led to the melting of the crossover, and possibly sending to low a signal to the tweeters blowing them.

There is no fucking way in hell over powering components will melt them unless they use shitty parts with a shitty design, i have had many speakers over powered by 2x and even 3x rated power with no ill effect on the crossover except on the speakers themselves from the thermal power limits of the coil.

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Pioneer AVH-X491BHS

PPI PC 4800.2

Morel Maximo 6.5" x2

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I personally think the crossovers were poorly designed and used inferior parts in it's construction which led to the melting of the crossover, and possibly sending to low a signal to the tweeters blowing them.

There is no fucking way in hell over powering components will melt them unless they use shitty parts with a shitty design, i have had many speakers over powered by 2x and even 3x rated power with no ill effect on the crossover except on the speakers themselves from the thermal power limits of the coil.

Thanks for the input man. yea, I thought after dd-1 the gains, cc-1 the freq., and pairing up amps to them with *rated* equivalent RMS that things would be *ok* through all of tuning to my personal preference. I know RF amps can do over rated some what, but I was surprised when i was having these issues. Guess I will 50% power things, set them accordingly and see how it turns out, lol.

Where I was looking for 100 RMS, the birth sheet (if you can go by that) showed 123 RMS but I figured if they were getting clean signal (dd-1) and using the passive crossover AND setup with the CC-1 that they would be able to handle it but I guess i was wrong, or something went wrong some where.

Oh and none of the crossovers stopped working, i was blowing tweeters, I have since tested and homed out everything multiple times.

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Even though you have the cc and dd 1, you should check the output with a volt ohm meter. With that alternator probably charging close to 14.5-15v the amp is probably putting out and extra 25-50 watts a channel. I think the dd-1 is great for sub amp settings where you want as much as possible, but no way I would set my 4 channel that way. Even though it's a clean signal on whatever sine wave you set it with, some music is no where as clean as a sine, nor the same volume. So the amp at full tilt and you assuming it's ok because the box rms is 125@4ohm or so. It's probably over powering and or clipping at the same time. Crossovers don't just melt with 100-125 watts to them.

You've tried multiple amps, and components. Both set the same way. Same results, and expensive results at that. Good luck man, hope you figure it out. BTW, I have a RF 600/4bdcp too, also hooked up on a set of T3's. If I remember correctly, I set the t3's at 24volts on a 1000hz sine. Amp on HP per tech at Fosgate. AP will make those crossovers give out eventually. But your mids hardly do anything on HP :(. Until I bi amp the crossover, that's how it stays.

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Even though you have the cc and dd 1, you should check the output with a volt ohm meter. With that alternator probably charging close to 14.5-15v the amp is probably putting out and extra 25-50 watts a channel. I think the dd-1 is great for sub amp settings where you want as much as possible, but no way I would set my 4 channel that way. Even though it's a clean signal on whatever sine wave you set it with, some music is no where as clean as a sine, nor the same volume. So the amp at full tilt and you assuming it's ok because the box rms is 125@4ohm or so. It's probably over powering and or clipping at the same time. Crossovers don't just melt with 100-125 watts to them.

You've tried multiple amps, and components. Both set the same way. Same results, and expensive results at that. Good luck man, hope you figure it out. BTW, I have a RF 600/4bdcp too, also hooked up on a set of T3's. If I remember correctly, I set the t3's at 24volts on a 1000hz sine. Amp on HP per tech at Fosgate. AP will make those crossovers give out eventually. But your mids hardly do anything on HP :(. Until I bi amp the crossover, that's how it stays.

I hear ya and yea, DD-1 is highest clean but doesn't mean it needs to stay there etc. gain control is key. Curious how people are claiming to over power by 2x or 3x then?

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Even though you have the cc and dd 1, you should check the output with a volt ohm meter. With that alternator probably charging close to 14.5-15v the amp is probably putting out and extra 25-50 watts a channel. I think the dd-1 is great for sub amp settings where you want as much as possible, but no way I would set my 4 channel that way. Even though it's a clean signal on whatever sine wave you set it with, some music is no where as clean as a sine, nor the same volume. So the amp at full tilt and you assuming it's ok because the box rms is 125@4ohm or so. It's probably over powering and or clipping at the same time. Crossovers don't just melt with 100-125 watts to them.

You've tried multiple amps, and components. Both set the same way. Same results, and expensive results at that. Good luck man, hope you figure it out. BTW, I have a RF 600/4bdcp too, also hooked up on a set of T3's. If I remember correctly, I set the t3's at 24volts on a 1000hz sine. Amp on HP per tech at Fosgate. AP will make those crossovers give out eventually. But your mids hardly do anything on HP :(. Until I bi amp the crossover, that's how it stays.

I hear ya and yea, DD-1 is highest clean but doesn't mean it needs to stay there etc. gain control is key. Curious how people are claiming to over power by 2x or 3x then?
Idk but if my bdcp600/4 can over power by 2x or 3x it's a monster!!!! Lmao.
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Even though you have the cc and dd 1, you should check the output with a volt ohm meter. With that alternator probably charging close to 14.5-15v the amp is probably putting out and extra 25-50 watts a channel. I think the dd-1 is great for sub amp settings where you want as much as possible, but no way I would set my 4 channel that way. Even though it's a clean signal on whatever sine wave you set it with, some music is no where as clean as a sine, nor the same volume. So the amp at full tilt and you assuming it's ok because the box rms is 125@4ohm or so. It's probably over powering and or clipping at the same time. Crossovers don't just melt with 100-125 watts to them.

You've tried multiple amps, and components. Both set the same way. Same results, and expensive results at that. Good luck man, hope you figure it out. BTW, I have a RF 600/4bdcp too, also hooked up on a set of T3's. If I remember correctly, I set the t3's at 24volts on a 1000hz sine. Amp on HP per tech at Fosgate. AP will make those crossovers give out eventually. But your mids hardly do anything on HP :(. Until I bi amp the crossover, that's how it stays.

I hear ya and yea, DD-1 is highest clean but doesn't mean it needs to stay there etc. gain control is key. Curious how people are claiming to over power by 2x or 3x then?
Idk but if my bdcp600/4 can over power by 2x or 3x it's a monster!!!! Lmao.

I didn't mean you, I just meant people who talk about that they do from time to time. I hope you took that the right way, lol.

IMO all settings would have to be absolutely perfect to manufacturer spec to be able to take more power (mainly talking tweets and the like) so I figured knowing the specs and setting with CC-1 an extra 25 watts was no biggie but I guess I was wrong, more than once, lol, my mistake, my pocket book that pays, lol

Thanks for the interest in this thread =)

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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