k00lguy105 Posted February 16, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 OK glad you haven't bought everything just yet. If you can get the dimensions of the front battery then decide on an agm that will drop in place would be ideal. I would venture to say the D3400 will fit and its a damn good battery for upfront. If you research around you can find charts that tell what group battery fits in specific cars as well. After you get the alt, big 3, and front battery knocked out I would run your current amps on there (after proper tuning with something such as the DD-1) and see what kind of current draw you have and write that down. Then make a decision on what your current will be overall (choose your sub amp such as the DC 5k) then plug that into the XS power calculator. I think these guys are pretty spot on though saying 3-4 XS D3100s or XP 3000s. If you get a PCM with the alt that allows adjustment I would say running at 14.4-14.8 will be pretty solid as well. I ordered a PCM with the singer alt and I am getting the DD-1 and CC-1 soon, and are extra 0 AWG grounds under the hood a benefit? Been hearing that it is and others say it isn't but I'm still writing more things down of the process as I go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tecomah Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 N8 is just telling the truth, and he knows what he's doing. 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k00lguy105 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 My comments aren't negative. They are honest. When you blow something up i then get to watch you come on here and bad mouth good companies and good products and the people that stand behind them because they didn't build a product that could withstand someone with very little knowledge. You mentioned 18 volts did you buy an 18 volt alternator because now you're talking 12 volt batteries. And a fried stock electrical. Turning the voltage regulator up doesn't magically make you more power and if it's the only alternator in your vehicle it's going to be real expensive when you spin that knob the first time. I'm just trying to tell you that your plan is very flawed. The very questions you ask dictate that you are new at this. If you weren't you wouldn't have to ask most of them. The only people who have to claim to not be new at it are the ones who are new. Since you are an accomplished installer I'd like to see some of your builds. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 i seen experience people fuck up everything. im talking about people that have been working at shops.. they dont even know how to set gains thats one reason i stopped going to shops and learning on my own. i burned too much money having someone installing and me burning my equipment because a pro installer didnt know what to do.. and besides i knew how to install sounds back when i was 12. knowing black is ground red positive and blue remote does not make you a pro installer my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poorfish88 Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 My comments aren't negative. They are honest. When you blow something up i then get to watch you come on here and bad mouth good companies and good products and the people that stand behind them because they didn't build a product that could withstand someone with very little knowledge. You mentioned 18 volts did you buy an 18 volt alternator because now you're talking 12 volt batteries. And a fried stock electrical. Turning the voltage regulator up doesn't magically make you more power and if it's the only alternator in your vehicle it's going to be real expensive when you spin that knob the first time. I'm just trying to tell you that your plan is very flawed. The very questions you ask dictate that you are new at this. If you weren't you wouldn't have to ask most of them. The only people who have to claim to not be new at it are the ones who are new. Since you are an accomplished installer I'd like to see some of your builds. The shit just got real.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k00lguy105 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 My comments aren't negative. They are honest. When you blow something up i then get to watch you come on here and bad mouth good companies and good products and the people that stand behind them because they didn't build a product that could withstand someone with very little knowledge. You mentioned 18 volts did you buy an 18 volt alternator because now you're talking 12 volt batteries. And a fried stock electrical. Turning the voltage regulator up doesn't magically make you more power and if it's the only alternator in your vehicle it's going to be real expensive when you spin that knob the first time. I'm just trying to tell you that your plan is very flawed. The very questions you ask dictate that you are new at this. If you weren't you wouldn't have to ask most of them. The only people who have to claim to not be new at it are the ones who are new. Since you are an accomplished installer I'd like to see some of your builds. Well i'm obviously here because I don't know enough to do what I want to my car, and i've never upgraded an electrical system. The installs i've done were just basic wiring, head units and amps so I guess that does make me an amateur. I thought it was a 12v alt but I don't know for sure, singer said if I add a adjustable regulator it can adjust from 12-20v so I just assumed I could set it at 18-20v for a 18v battery. Now I agree with you of the possibility of blowing it up. What do I need to learn before I start on my electrical? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DubNDodge Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 There are 18v car audio batteries? I thought it was just 12v 14v and 16v? '01 Dodge Stratass Sealed Trunk Build Log 2008 Honda Fit Sport Build Log On 10/3/2013 at 10:00 AM, ROLEXrifleman said: Anyone who says they knew everything they wanted out of life at 19 can go suck a bag of dicks cause they are lying to themselves or brought up in a cult. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karkov Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 There are 18v car audio batteries? I thought it was just 12v 14v and 16v? 16V charge at 18v 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k00lguy105 Posted February 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 There are 18v car audio batteries? I thought it was just 12v 14v and 16v? I meant to put 16v. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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