KMS Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 I use the seat belt bolt. Though, I only have less than 1000rms. Alpine PDX-V9 Morel Tempo 6 Alpine SBR-S8-4 Alpine CDE 149BT
Swordlordboy1234 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 In my unibody car I was doing 12.2 -12.6 volts full tilt on my Skar 2500 at .5 ohms with a random ground in the back, it was properly sanded with a bolt, lock washer and washer. I changed to a rear strut tower and was holding 13.5-13.8 full tilt same amp, all I did was relocate the ground. Later I doubled my power and I still hold 11.4-12.2 same alternators and batteries. Then I changed everything from CCA to OFC and re used my strut tower ground with my 4k amp at .5 ohms and now I hold 12.6-13.4 depending on the note. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?
AMI CUSTOMS Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 So if long grounds are bad, how do you hook up an amp in a fiberglass boat with no chassis? You are running batteries in back ? Is that why you are running ground front to back? If so, ground at the battery bank neg in the rear, best spot times a million. TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty
01 S-10 Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Posted January 25, 2014 In my unibody car I was doing 12.2 -12.6 volts full tilt on my Skar 2500 at .5 ohms with a random ground in the back, it was properly sanded with a bolt, lock washer and washer. I changed to a rear strut tower and was holding 13.5-13.8 full tilt same amp, all I did was relocate the ground. Later I doubled my power and I still hold 11.4-12.2 same alternators and batteries. Then I changed everything from CCA to OFC and re used my strut tower ground with my 4k amp at .5 ohms and now I hold 12.6-13.4 depending on the note. Thanks! That's some great info, exactly what I was looking for TDH FTW !!!
01 S-10 Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Posted January 25, 2014 So if long grounds are bad, how do you hook up an amp in a fiberglass boat with no chassis? You are running batteries in back ? Is that why you are running ground front to back? If so, ground at the battery bank neg in the rear, best spot times a million. Was mainly doing it because I wasn't sure if the chassis alone was enough, and yes batteries will be in the trunk TDH FTW !!!
michigancapri92 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 if you run a 1/0 power cable from the front of the car to the back do the same with ground .... a 1/0 ground cable will carry the ground to the front much better than the body of the car with metal panels held together with small spot welds here and there. Teamcapri.comThe TeamCapri 1992 Mercury Capri XR22012 FORD EDGE SQ BUILDOld build logMy FeedBack1992 Mercury capri XR2 Hyper LED
alaskanzx5 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 wasn't there a thread about ground to the frame, unibody or not being proven better? I believe it was snafu that did the testing. ill see if I can find the thread. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
Neckbeard Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 if you run a 1/0 power cable from the front of the car to the back do the same with ground .... a 1/0 ground cable will carry the ground to the front much better than the body of the car with metal panels held together with small spot welds here and there. I believe it, This actually make's a LOT of sense Build log, Super slow!!: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/168096-slow-neckbeards-1970-opel-gt/
Swordlordboy1234 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 Yeah he said that your good for about 1500-2500 rms watts in a unibody car with a ground to the strut tower in the back. Beyond that and you might need to start doing pure OFC runs for grounds. With my 4k I might be pushing that envelope. I just didn't want to drill a hole in my firewall yet. When I install my Xs power batteries and my 270 amp alternator.. If I don't see huge voltage improvement I might buy a 20 foot OFC run and run it front to back and see if I hold better. If I do then it looks like I'll have a negative run. Until then, strut tower grounds ftw. My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?
alaskanzx5 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 quick google search brought up the thread I was thinking of. reading through it again its says for the unibody Altima they tested it on the chassis was 14% better as in had an increase of 14% voltage at its lowest point. also said that he believes it would be best for systems up to 4k watts and that any more a run of 1/0 gauge (I would do an equal amount of positive and negative runs) with a good chassis ground would be a better option then just running a ground(s) front to back for the best possible situation. some one else did the test on his car and saw roughly a .1v increase non full tilt on music. in short do both for the power your running to make sure your getting the best possible connections. I would even take a dmm and check the results myself and post them up if I was you. do the runs and ground to chassis take a measurement of the drop then disconnect the chassis ground and redo the test. reconnect the chassis ground and disconnect the ground run(s) and test the drop again. which ever result has the best outcome is the way to go. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
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