exc500 Posted February 3, 2014 Report Posted February 3, 2014 I have a db 250 amp alternator and when I crank my truck it reads around 14.9 but after driving for a little bit my voltage drops to around 13.3. I've done the big 3 up grade with all true 0 gauge cable and have 2 optima yellow top batterys . I have a soundqubed 3500.1 and an xtant 3300c hooked up in my truck with two full runs of 0 gauge cable from my batterys to my amps. I haven't really pushed my sub amp very hard . I also have a 6 farad and a3.5 farad cap within 6 inches of my sub amp and the xtant. I can not eaven turn them on and I notice while I'm driving my voltage go from really high 14's to low 13's. Of course I want it to stay more on the high 14 volt side than lower 13's. I have a pretty good knoledge about car electrical. Is this just my alternator cycling or is something wrong? I appreciate any help on this. And yes I do plan on adding a xd or kinetic battery soon just for the system. Oh yea I'm currently running the sq amp at 1.5 ohms. But don't like my voltage running low 13's cause when I crank that amp it will dropp voltage into 12's and I don't want it that low.
mbdblue Posted February 3, 2014 Report Posted February 3, 2014 my best guess is those caps are doing more harm then good for you....your better off with additional batteries (but not yellow tops) edit: to expand on this, I would take out the caps and see how it reacts. I would have a little more stout battery bank on that setup but that's just me. AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco
JesseyMclame Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 my best guess is those caps are doing more harm then good for you....your better off with additional batteries (but not yellow tops) edit: to expand on this, I would take out the caps and see how it reacts. I would have a little more stout battery bank on that setup but that's just me. Why not yellow tops ? If I recall, that's what N8 runs in his truck ... Current setup in my 96 Hoe Hu - Pioneer DEH-80prs. Amps - (4) Crossfire C5 1700D's, MTX Thunder 5604(mids), PPI Art 300.2 (tweets) Batts - 4 91ah rear batts, 50ah batt up front. Subs - 2 Crossfire XSv2 18's Alt - Singer 330A Front stage - Random JL & Eclipse mids, Eclipse tweets
Kyblack76 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 How hot is it where you are? I looked at your account, and you didnt say. I lost over a volt, in about 2 mins from heat. Id start at 14.2 and drop to 13.1. If your charging over battery rest, your alt is working. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
MECHMAN Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 I have a db 250 amp alternator and when I crank my truck it reads around 14.9 but after driving for a little bit my voltage drops to around 13.3. I've done the big 3 up grade with all true 0 gauge cable and have 2 optima yellow top batterys . I have a soundqubed 3500.1 and an xtant 3300c hooked up in my truck with two full runs of 0 gauge cable from my batterys to my amps. I haven't really pushed my sub amp very hard . I also have a 6 farad and a3.5 farad cap within 6 inches of my sub amp and the xtant. I can not eaven turn them on and I notice while I'm driving my voltage go from really high 14's to low 13's. Of course I want it to stay more on the high 14 volt side than lower 13's. I have a pretty good knoledge about car electrical. Is this just my alternator cycling or is something wrong? I appreciate any help on this. And yes I do plan on adding a xd or kinetic battery soon just for the system. Oh yea I'm currently running the sq amp at 1.5 ohms. But don't like my voltage running low 13's cause when I crank that amp it will dropp voltage into 12's and I don't want it that low. I would remove the Caps and replace them with a good battery. Second i would check the resting voltage on the batteries. Then i would look at the face of the alternator and see if there is a black powdery substance if so then it is showing signs of belt slip. 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected]
Amart88 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 What kind of vehicle do you have? what year? Normally alternators will have a higher voltage when cold until they warm up but that is a big difference you got there. Depending on your vehicle it could have PCM controlled voltage which can do the same thing. My 2005 s10 blazer build. 4 zcon 18's walled.
exc500 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Posted February 4, 2014 Sorry for the delay in getting back . Thanks for the input. I have a 2009 chevy Silverado x-cab. 2 wheel drive. I live in Georgia around metro atl. I have another alt I was thinking of adding just to run the system and use one for the truck. I know my battery's not really up to par but next cash I get I'm getting some solid hig amp low resistance battery's. I do plan on running the soundqubed amp down to at least one ohm. I did wonder if my body control module was what was cutting the voltage back. When I first installed the alt it ran pretty high like around 15.3 volts and when I crank my truck up initially it stays high 14's then after driving it will cut back to low 13's. And it seems like if I am playing the system relativity loud by the time it kicks back in it can't really get the voltage back up. If this is a bad alt I still can return it. And I'm really tempted to and get a 350 amp version. But most of those don't seem to be for daily driving . Thanks for the help on this.
MECHMAN Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Sorry for the delay in getting back . Thanks for the input. I have a 2009 chevy Silverado x-cab. 2 wheel drive. I live in Georgia around metro atl. I have another alt I was thinking of adding just to run the system and use one for the truck. I know my battery's not really up to par but next cash I get I'm getting some solid hig amp low resistance battery's. I do plan on running the soundqubed amp down to at least one ohm. I did wonder if my body control module was what was cutting the voltage back. When I first installed the alt it ran pretty high like around 15.3 volts and when I crank my truck up initially it stays high 14's then after driving it will cut back to low 13's. And it seems like if I am playing the system relativity loud by the time it kicks back in it can't really get the voltage back up. If this is a bad alt I still can return it. And I'm really tempted to and get a 350 amp version. But most of those don't seem to be for daily driving . Thanks for the help on this. The truck has a RVC controller that will turn the voltage down if it can't read the load that the audio is putting on the battery. DId you run the NEGATIVE through the load sensing terminal ? 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected]
exc500 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Posted February 4, 2014 No. I just re grounded my engine and frame and added another 0 gauge from alt bracket to the frame as well.
exc500 Posted February 4, 2014 Author Report Posted February 4, 2014 No. I just re grounded my engine and frame and added another 0 gauge from alt bracket to the frame as well.
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