GueroZ28 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Total new guy and all i know is alot of people prefer 12s .. but what would be the difference of a 1000watt 10inch and a 1000watt 12 thanks Also when u buy a sub and you look at the spider thing what is all that detail stuff about and how do you know what is a good sub and whats good for lows and all that
RMac18 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Cone area and displacement. More cone area should move more air. More displacement will need a larger volume box, thus require more room then the 10".
RooTxBeeR Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 The way I do it. What ever the max size availible to put a box in, you select sub(s) that will fit the best in that. 2cuft, I will go a single 10, 5cuft, a 15. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
jarrius Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Cone area is king on paper but in reality there is way more things that affect how loud you are then just come area. IMO I like smaller subs or running just 1 12. People who no nothing about car audio are shocked as hell when they see 2 10's or in my case just 1 12 whey they swore I had to have at least 2 12's or 15's. So IMO bigger subs does not mean always louder and smaller subs do not always mean they sound better. It's a lot of little things that are involved in it. 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole
Rich Schenk Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Its all on the quality of the sub. What are you going for loud. Or sound quality or both? On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
Kyblack76 Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 Most cone with the most proper space. Power, you can add... Welcome to the forum, and dont like your own post, ..... cheers SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold
alaskanzx5 Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 It's all about the box for the sub To figure out how big out how many subs you can fit you have to first figure out how big of a box you can get in the vehicle. Then figure out how many if what size sub will work for that volume. Remember that's volume is gross since your not subtracting port, bracing, sub displacement. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
john253a Posted February 5, 2014 Report Posted February 5, 2014 Here's what I do Draw what space I have Mock up some boxes on paper and see what net and gross you have to work with. Pick a brand that you want to use and look at there recommendation, for each mdl and pice size and quanty basses off the perfect box That way you will get most value to $$$ out of what you have
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