ncc74656 Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 ill loose 2 cubic feet of volume plus the extra port length required. im out of room. ill measure things more accurately again tomorrow but as it stands im not sure where in the hell im putting my amps. i had envisioned building some drawers under the box but im not sure how this will fit atm. nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 3/4" double baffle, and either 1"thick mdf (or double up on half inch mdf), bracing and don't forget a port brace. Either .5-1" dowels out threaded rod t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncc74656 Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 i posted a schematic above of what im looking at. 2.5" dowells and the port is braced. what do you think of it? nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I would put some kinda of brace along that bottom panel, you could do something like a 4" tall piece of mdf running the width of the box. Cut holes in it so it takes up less air space. When bracing a box the goal is the reduce the length of un-braced segments. A larger number of smaller braces is better than just a few large ones. I'd use smaller dowels, and use more of them. Here is some bracing I did for a 18" home theater speaker for ideas: "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ncc74656 Posted February 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 i have room to play on the bottom. the plan is to build amp racks down there and i will have some braces there for when i bolt it to the body of hte vehicle so when all is said and done id think the bottom will be between 1.5-3.5" thick. ill shrink those dowells and look into a shelf between teh sides and front/back nothing, gutted Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I was thinkingmore along the lines of a brace on the inside of the port. Then less braces right next to the subs and more on the bigger pieces of un braced mdf. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 On the outside not the inside. Lose no volume that way THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 - SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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