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Stress on subwoofer at tuning


Dude2800

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Does the termlab enclosure software work on an apple?

i honestly cannot confirm, only time i use the termlab is at shows when i compete.

#teamihop

Two 12 inch DC XL's

Carbon Fiber Cap

Stetsom 7k

Shell of box / baffle built by me

Port / sealing the box by John Hone

Fuck midrange

Alpine-9886

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177428-97jettas-sql-trunk-wall-loudest-99-buick-century-custom-with-a-one-legged-owner/

price has no influence on how something sounds

I told him to move the fucking port.

they see me hoppin they stoppin they can't believe im so white and dirty

It looks like you got so drunk, that someone came up and stole your leg.

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elaborate? because i garauntee you if you go, well my sub moves the least at 34 hz, that must be my tuning. you're incorrect. the enclosure doesn't ~have~ a tuning, ever put it in a different vehicle and notice it changed the sound? that's because it's based on your vehicle, what your vehicle is peaking at is your tuning. you can't control that unless you modify the vehicle, build different boxes, and try different combinations. it's not hard, it's not science, it's fact. so please, try again.

Ported enclosures absolutely have a tuning frequency, it is science. The tuning frequency of the box has nothing to do with the frequency your car peaks at. Though having both of those be the same thing is definitely going to help you get the best scores with a TL.

I doubt anything I say is going to change your thinking on this, but in case anyone else wants to learn and understand the can read this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bass_reflex

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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SPL peak and enclosure tuning are not always the same frequency (not to mention the box peak is actually just above tuning, not right at it). Many times the car peak will be higher than the tuning peak on the meter. Just depends on how big of a peak your design has and how far it is from the car peak (frequency).

SPL competitors spend a lot of time aligning the enclosure peak and the vehicle peak. . .

As far as watching the driver excursion to find tuning - excursion is at a minimum at tuning, so output from the driver is also at a minimum. You can actually place you meter directly in front of the driver and at a lower volume look for the frequency with minimum SPL. The loudspeaker cookbook claims this is the most accurate way to verify tuning, since parameters may slightly shift the tuning vs. the calculated tuning.

You can also graph the impedance plot and the tuning frequency will be the frequency at the lowest impedance between the two spikes. This is how I normally verify tuning. It is easy to do with a few resistors and a DMM.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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Ported enclosures absolutely have a tuning frequency, it is science. The tuning frequency of the box has nothing to do with the frequency your car peaks at. Though having both of those be the same thing is definitely going to help you get the best scores with a TL.

I doubt anything I say is going to change your thinking on this, but in case anyone else wants to learn and understand the can read this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bass_reflex

You are correct! Hard to get people to understand. . .you hear something different in different cars due to the car resonant frequency and different cabin gains.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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SPL peak and enclosure tuning are not always the same frequency (not to mention the box peak is actually just above tuning, not right at it). Many times the car peak will be higher than the tuning peak on the meter. Just depends on how big of a peak your design has and how far it is from the car peak (frequency).

SPL competitors spend a lot of time aligning the enclosure peak and the vehicle peak. . .

As far as watching the driver excursion to find tuning - excursion is at a minimum at tuning, so output from the driver is also at a minimum. You can actually place you meter directly in front of the driver and at a lower volume look for the frequency with minimum SPL. The loudspeaker cookbook claims this is the most accurate way to verify tuning, since parameters may slightly shift the tuning vs. the calculated tuning.

You can also graph the impedance plot and the tuning frequency will be the frequency at the lowest impedance between the two spikes. This is how I normally verify tuning. It is easy to do with a few resistors and a DMM.

This was what i was trying to refer to. I was also going to say, that my tuning, is not where peak is. And i believed that to be "normal"

Was trying to figure out who, showed me this. I believe it was Mike, and i pm'd you dude..... you went quickly over my head, but, some stuck :)

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...

As far as watching the driver excursion to find tuning - excursion is at a minimum at tuning, so output from the driver is also at a minimum. You can actually place you meter directly in front of the driver and at a lower volume look for the frequency with minimum SPL. The loudspeaker cookbook claims this is the most accurate way to verify tuning, since parameters may slightly shift the tuning vs. the calculated tuning.

...

This is how I verify tuning on the enclosures I build. I have a calibrated mic, I put it right in front of the cone, and do a sine wave sweep. The dip in output is really pronounced, it makes it quite obvious where the enclosure is tuned to. If anyone else is interested in testing their enclosures the calibrated mic is an easy way to do it, they aren't very expensive and are a really useful tool.

I've got a Dayton DATS and I've used it to do impedence sweeps to find the tuning that way too, but it seems like the mic method gives me more accurate results. Both methods are usually very close though.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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...

As far as watching the driver excursion to find tuning - excursion is at a minimum at tuning, so output from the driver is also at a minimum. You can actually place you meter directly in front of the driver and at a lower volume look for the frequency with minimum SPL. The loudspeaker cookbook claims this is the most accurate way to verify tuning, since parameters may slightly shift the tuning vs. the calculated tuning.

...

This is how I verify tuning on the enclosures I build. I have a calibrated mic, I put it right in front of the cone, and do a sine wave sweep. The dip in output is really pronounced, it makes it quite obvious where the enclosure is tuned to. If anyone else is interested in testing their enclosures the calibrated mic is an easy way to do it, they aren't very expensive and are a really useful tool.

I've got a Dayton DATS and I've used it to do impedence sweeps to find the tuning that way too, but it seems like the mic method gives me more accurate results. Both methods are usually very close though.

Im interested! Besides the mic, what other equipment is needed?

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All you need is a couple of resistors and a DMM to measure impedance.

Wire the resistors in series with the sub, play a tone, measure voltage across the amps terminals, measure voltage accoss the resistors.

Voltage across the sub is the difference in the two voltage measurements.

Current can be calculated using the voltage across the resistors and the resistor value.

Sub impedance is calculated using the voltage across the sub and the current through the circuit.

Plot it for all frequencies. There will be two peaks - tuning is the frequency between the peaks.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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To visually represent what Bkolfo has said about the impedance graph, I'll repost Wick's measurements of his XL12's with his car door open.

For the techies ;), here's an impedance sweep of my sub-box with the cabin sealed up:

XL12InboxDoorClosedImpedance_zpsf8f2f786

Here's another sweep with the driver door open:

XL12InboxDoorOpenImpedance_zps639dcd52.j

Interesting that my tuning slightly got lower with the door open and the impedance at my upper peak dropped quite a bit, from 15ohms to 9 ohms.

That drop in impedance would definitely correlate to an increase in output :D

Link to his build log:

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/141656-wicks-e46-m3-build-1st-place-win-and-guess-who-got-a-50/page-50

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

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