BassInMyBLood Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Ok I have a couple questions about fuse sizes. 1st: I plan on running 1/0 gauge wire from front battery to my second battery and I was not sure what fuse size I should use? 2nd: And off of the second I was going to run (2) 4 gauge wires to my two amps, what size fuse should I use here? Info on system: The 2 amps im going to be using are (Subs) Rockford Fosgate T1000-1BDCP (Mids/Highs) Rockford Fosgate T400-4. I would like to use the miniANL fuses. I have used the 80amp miniANL fuse from second battery to sub amp before and no problems, I was wondering if that was still alright? If I left any information out please let me know and ill fill you in as good as possible. On a side note I have seen on SHCA that they sell the big 3 kit fused and non fused, how and where would the fuse go on an big 3 kit and what size as well? AQ - SQ For Life Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AMI CUSTOMS Posted March 10, 2014 Report Share Posted March 10, 2014 Depending on length, 1/0 wire 300 amp fuse, for RF1500 do a 150, and for the 400-4 go with a 80. TEAM SOUNDQUBED -- TEAM SOUTH TEAM S.O.B. - Founder & Captain 3x Streetbeat World Record Holder 2017 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2016 MWSPL 1st place Mayhem/2nd Adv 4/2nd Xtreme 4 2015 MWSPL 2nd place Mayhem & 4th Xtreme 4 2014 USACI 2nd place Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db 2014 MWSPL 2nd place Xtreme 4 - 144.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db 2013 USACI 1st place Street Q+ - 162.8 db 2013 MWSPL 3rd Kaos2 & 4th Xtreme 4 2011 USACI 2nd place MOD 1001-2k - 160.0 db 2011 MWSPL 4th place: Adv3 - 157.8 db, Kaos2 - 150s db, Xtreme4 - 140s db 2010 ARSPL 1st place 501-750 - 160.3 db Arkansas loudest Best score to date 164.4 db - Termlab Outlaw Streetbeat 4 - 161.9 db Streetbeat 5 - 162.6 db MWSPL on Dash Legal door open (Music) - 162.5 db Sealed on dash Legal (Music) - 161.1 db - Termlab THE BLACK NASTY CURRENT BUILD & FAB The Black Nasty (6) 15 Rebuild Log 2012 (4) 15 Walled Sierra Build Log Evo X build log Facebook page The Black Nasty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassInMyBLood Posted March 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 ok I have called a car audio shop an they said an 100amp fuse would be ok. I also called SHCA and they said that I should put a 300-350 amp fuse. so im not sure what to do, because I don't want to spend more money if I don't have to. my alternator is only a 90 amp does that matter? AQ - SQ For Life Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mothra Posted March 12, 2014 Report Share Posted March 12, 2014 if you don't remove the factory wiring for the Big 3, it's pointless for it to be fused. if nothing changes, nothing changes You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 ok I have called a car audio shop an they said an 100amp fuse would be ok. I also called SHCA and they said that I should put a 300-350 amp fuse. so im not sure what to do, because I don't want to spend more money if I don't have to. my alternator is only a 90 amp does that matter? They said 100 amp for what wire? Also, in all honesty, I would probably trust SHCA opinion over some random audio shop. If your talking aboutt he 1/0, I would run a 350A fuse. The 90 Amp alternator is ok. You are pulling more than what you can supply so if it is possible it would be god to upgrade the alt. Do you have Big 3 done or a upgraded battery? if you don't remove the factory wiring for the Big 3, it's pointless for it to be fused. That, has got to be the stupidest thing I have ever heard. You should fuse every and all additional power wires you add into your vehicle. Just because he didn't do the big three, doesn't mean he shouldn't fuse. That's just moronic. Don't fuse, then run the risk of burning your car down, regardless of any prior upgrades to the car. So I say it again for the OP and all other to see. If you had more Power wires to your vehicle, play it safe and cough up the extra 10-15 for a fuse holder and a fuse so you don't burn your car to the ground just because you wanted to cheap out on fuses. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Well, remember, if he doesnt HAVE 250 amps in the entire system, the fuse wont blow. Yes, you fuse to the wire, but, in a few cases, when your UP sizing SO much, you need to also fuse to quantity. a 90 amp alt, and shitty battery, has to have enough backing to BLOW the fuse being used. Just throwing that in there. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 if you don't remove the factory wiring for the Big 3, it's pointless for it to be fused. I'm not MECP certified, so this statement is over my head. Splane please? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 Fusing the big three is as must... regardless of how much current the alternator or battery are capable of. Regulators can and do fail and when that happens, the alternator can send in excess of 50 volts through the electrical system. I've seen it happen and the results aren't attractive. Also, you fuse the power wire for the power wire. Again, without concern for low alternator current. Even a poor quality battery can send more than 250 amps through a circuit, if only for a few milliseconds... which is all it takes to blow a fuse in a dead short condition. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mothra Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 if you don't remove the factory wiring for the Big 3, it's pointless for it to be fused. I'm not MECP certified, so this statement is over my head. Splane please? fusing for the alt to battery without removing the factory wiring is retarded. thanks for the criticism without thinking. the wire is live on both sides no matter what, so what are you fusing for to protect the battery which is still connected through the factory wiring? are you fusing to protect the alt which is still connected through the factory wiring. are you trying to protect both if the wire slips out of the connection which still keeps the wire live since the factory wiring is still there? you are fusing between 2 power sources which the wire is still live on either side. answer me this what is the fuse going to stop? if nothing changes, nothing changes You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbeljefe Posted March 13, 2014 Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 if you don't remove the factory wiring for the Big 3, it's pointless for it to be fused. I'm not MECP certified, so this statement is over my head. Splane please? fusing for the alt to battery without removing the factory wiring is retarded. thanks for the criticism without thinking. the wire is live on both sides no matter what, so what are you fusing for to protect the battery which is still connected through the factory wiring? are you fusing to protect the alt which is still connected through the factory wiring. are you trying to protect both if the wire slips out of the connection which still keeps the wire live since the factory wiring is still there? you are fusing between 2 power sources which the wire is still live on either side. answer me this what is the fuse going to stop? The factory wiring is fused also. If you don't see a fuse on a given car, that's because the wire itself is or has a fusable link. The latter is more common on older vehicles. Facebook: facebook.com/audioanarchyllc Instagram: audioanarchyllc Youtube: youtube.com/bbeljefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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