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Fusing the big three is as must... regardless of how much current the alternator or battery are capable of. Regulators can and do fail and when that happens, the alternator can send in excess of 50 volts through the electrical system. I've seen it happen and the results aren't attractive.

Also, you fuse the power wire for the power wire. Again, without concern for low alternator current. Even a poor quality battery can send more than 250 amps through a circuit, if only for a few milliseconds... which is all it takes to blow a fuse in a dead short conditio

A fuse wont protect for overvoltage.

To the OP, you need this link:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183486-how-to-fuse-wire-in-car-audio/

(also i'm pretty sure this has to be in electrical instead of general audio...)

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Fusing the big three is as must... regardless of how much current the alternator or battery are capable of. Regulators can and do fail and when that happens, the alternator can send in excess of 50 volts through the electrical system. I've seen it happen and the results aren't attractive.

Also, you fuse the power wire for the power wire. Again, without concern for low alternator current. Even a poor quality battery can send more than 250 amps through a circuit, if only for a few milliseconds... which is all it takes to blow a fuse in a dead short conditio

A fuse wont protect for overvoltage.

To the OP, you need this link:http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183486-how-to-fuse-wire-in-car-audio/

(also i'm pretty sure this has to be in electrical instead of general audio...)

True, but in the scenario I mentioned, there is no current limiting circuit and the internal resistance of the battery is sufficient to cause current flow in excess of the proper fuse's rating. Ergo, the fuse will protect the vehicle's electrical system in that scenario.

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if you don't remove the factory wiring for the Big 3, it's pointless for it to be fused.

I'm not MECP certified, so this statement is over my head.

Splane please?

fusing for the alt to battery without removing the factory wiring is retarded. thanks for the criticism without thinking. the wire is live on both sides no matter what, so what are you fusing for to protect the battery which is still connected through the factory wiring? are you fusing to protect the alt which is still connected through the factory wiring. are you trying to protect both if the wire slips out of the connection which still keeps the wire live since the factory wiring is still there? you are fusing between 2 power sources which the wire is still live on either side. answer me this what is the fuse going to stop?

I dont fuse that line at all, i just didnt get the "if you don't remove the factory wiring for the Big 3" part of your comment.

If you would have said, " unless you fuse it right by the alt, and right by the battery" like i do in all these threads, i wouldnt have said a fucking word.

You dont need to teach me anything. But, thank you for clearing YOUR statement up.

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Sorry I put this thread in the general and not the proper category. so let me get this straight I need to take out the factory wires for the big three. and replace them with 4 gauge wire? or 0 gauge wire since my alt is only a 90 amp does that matter on wire size? and I need to fuse the power wire from alt to battery with what size fuse there? same as the power wire going to the back battery? a 350-300 amp fuse.

AQ - SQ For Life

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Lol you fuse for the wire... not the batteries

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