alaskanzx5 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Yes but there is a general guideline that could be made and followed to help get better result. big 3 upgrade 1. Alt pos 2. Engine ground 3. Battery ground big 4 upgrade 1. Alt pos 2. Engine ground 3. Battery ground 4. Alt case/mounting bracket or bolt ground big 3 is what most do, its effective and a good improvement over stock. big 4 is a better option and would help reduce resistance the most. another option would be a modified version of the big 3 1. Alt pos 2. Alt case/mounting bracket or bolt ground 3. Battery ground only difference is the lack of engine ground upgrade but the alt ground in would do both, help improve engine ground and give your alt a better grounding source. Cheapier in cost more effective then the typical big 3 but it lacks a common ground for the alt and battery which isn't all that important but can reduce resistance and ground loop but those are more install dependant and have to be tried and tested in order for you to find the best results for your vehicle. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fecupe2001 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 No reason to run alt casing to front battery. That's not where the bulk of your current will be flowing from. Unless you like to charge a dead front battery every time you drive your car or something. I have mine does as follows: Alt positive to battery Alt casing to strut tower Battery negative to strut tower. Alt and battery both share a common ground call me crazy sweetheart, but my explorer gained A LOT by doing a negative run from alt case/bolt to the negative on the battery, matthew from mechman told me that my voltage was dropping like crazy with their alt because i didn´t have that run and i needed that since it was a HO alt, don´t ask me why because you know im a complete noob when it comes to electricals, but i gained TONS with that run, more than 1v at full tilt and like 0.6 dbs on the meter if i remember correctly I´m the SPL Gains topic creator!! wanna get louder?? check this: SPL Gains. Panamenian 2009 & 2010 & 2014 Bass Race 149.9 Champion! 2 15" subs and a 2K wired at 1 ohm, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167788-fecupe2001-2-15s-on-a-2k-video-on-page-3/ 8 Massive 15" subs and small power, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179296-fecupe2001s-8-15s-4th-order-bandpass-wall/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Yes but there is a general guideline that could be made and followed to help get better result. big 3 upgrade 1. Alt pos 2. Engine ground 3. Battery ground big 4 upgrade 1. Alt pos 2. Engine ground 3. Battery ground 4. Alt case/mounting bracket or bolt ground big 3 is what most do, its effective and a good improvement over stock. big 4 is a better option and would help reduce resistance the most. another option would be a modified version of the big 3 1. Alt pos 2. Alt case/mounting bracket or bolt ground 3. Battery ground only difference is the lack of engine ground upgrade but the alt ground in would do both, help improve engine ground and give your alt a better grounding source. Cheapier in cost more effective then the typical big 3 but it lacks a common ground for the alt and battery which isn't all that important but can reduce resistance and ground loop but those are more install dependant and have to be tried and tested in order for you to find the best results for your vehicle. That is good, for people that ground to frame. Or unibody or whatever piece of common metal you want to call it. You're totally correct. For those with dedicated ground runs, like myself, you will never need to ground to frame under the hood. I don't understand why people don't get that. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 True a dedicated ground run doesn't need the same upgraded ground as a person who doesn't do ground rums but still would benefit from an added ground. for that situation I would do a big 2 1. Alt power 2. Alt ground to battery ground and maybe for piece of mind battery ground. reason for alt to batt ground is because the alt case is technically a grounding point for a cars electrical system while running. at the end of it all I would most likely still do alt case ground, battery ground and grounds in the rear though. Just to make sure everything is at its best. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundstream15 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 No reason to run alt casing to front battery. That's not where the bulk of your current will be flowing from. Unless you like to charge a dead front battery every time you drive your car or something. I have mine does as follows: Alt positive to battery Alt casing to strut tower Battery negative to strut tower. Alt and battery both share a common ground call me crazy sweetheart, but my explorer gained A LOT by doing a negative run from alt case/bolt to the negative on the battery, matthew from mechman told me that my voltage was dropping like crazy with their alt because i didn´t have that run and i needed that since it was a HO alt, don´t ask me why because you know im a complete noob when it comes to electricals, but i gained TONS with that run, more than 1v at full tilt and like 0.6 dbs on the meter if i remember correctly I have a Mechman alt and I'm dropping to high 12s. I do not have that run and I believe they told me to do so as well but never did. I will do a run from alt casing to battery. They know more then us with electrical and their alts so if that's the way they perform best then so be it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stephen13 Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 Is the alt's rectifier a full wave or half wave rectifier? 2011 Chevy Silverado LT 5.3L 4x4 Ext.-cab "Enjoy yourself. It's later than you think." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 21, 2014 Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 No reason to run alt casing to front battery. That's not where the bulk of your current will be flowing from. Unless you like to charge a dead front battery every time you drive your car or something. I have mine does as follows: Alt positive to battery Alt casing to strut tower Battery negative to strut tower. Alt and battery both share a common ground call me crazy sweetheart, but my explorer gained A LOT by doing a negative run from alt case/bolt to the negative on the battery, matthew from mechman told me that my voltage was dropping like crazy with their alt because i didn´t have that run and i needed that since it was a HO alt, don´t ask me why because you know im a complete noob when it comes to electricals, but i gained TONS with that run, more than 1v at full tilt and like 0.6 dbs on the meter if i remember correctly I'd believe there was a weakness somewhere else in your wiring if that made such a difference. I've tried one myself and gained nothing. Same with with a front-back negative run. Where were you grounded to for the other two parts of the big 3? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundstream15 Posted April 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2014 I know Mechman told me that is a must with their alts. I have mine like this. Alt + to battery + Battery - to strut tower Battery - to engine block Battery - to stock battery ground Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fecupe2001 Posted April 22, 2014 Report Share Posted April 22, 2014 Exactly, mechman told me the same and it did gained a lot for me, beats me I´m the SPL Gains topic creator!! wanna get louder?? check this: SPL Gains. Panamenian 2009 & 2010 & 2014 Bass Race 149.9 Champion! 2 15" subs and a 2K wired at 1 ohm, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167788-fecupe2001-2-15s-on-a-2k-video-on-page-3/ 8 Massive 15" subs and small power, http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/179296-fecupe2001s-8-15s-4th-order-bandpass-wall/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvionicsTek Posted April 24, 2014 Report Share Posted April 24, 2014 Came across this video and it sounds like he knows his shit lol that is why I'm posting this. To see if this actually does do a better job instead of engine block. So should we run a extra ground from alt casing to battery neg? Is that what he is saying. http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=K3EFGlHPFDk As long as your negative battery cable, alternator-case, and engine block are all grounded properly to the structure of your vehicle, you won't really gain anything by going directly from the alternator case to the battery. To ground the neg. battery cable, the alternator-case cable, and the engine block cable properly, I recommend that everyone buys a "bonding brush" ( http://www.browntool.com/Default.aspx?tabid=255&CategoryID=246&List=1&SortField=ProductName%2cProductNumber&Level=a&ProductID=1550 ) to correctly remove all paint/coatings. Once all coatings are removed to bare metal, clean the surface with 90% isopropyl alcohol, then attach wire lug to burnished area, then coat the lug and small surrounding area with a clear sealer (clear touch up paint works really well) to keep moisture out of the bonded area. Doing it that way will ensure a VERY low resistance that one could only measure with a milliohm meter, and will also ensure the best flow of electrons through the entire loop of the electrical system I also recommend bonding all three (battery, alternator, engine block) to the same structure for the lowest resistance. There's resistance between body panels, shock towers, etc because many of those parts are coated before assembly, and they're not touching metal-to-metal. This is why the frame is the best place to bond all three. A frame is welded together and electrons will flow the most freely between each ground if they're all bonded to the frame. You can also use that same bonding process above with the negative cables on your amplifier, head unit power-ground, head-unit case, and anything else electrical to ensure that resistance is low, electrons flow, and RF noise is kept to a minimum. I actually have a cable bonded between my frame and the floor of my truck cab, so anything I bond to my truck cab us also bonded to the frame. Lastly... Keep grounds as short as possible to keep them from picking up noise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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