mbdblue Posted May 22, 2014 Report Posted May 22, 2014 walk away from it for a little. clear your head....always worked for me (sometimes being dragged kicking and screaming). If you figure out how to take the console apart the first time, it will be even easier everytime after that. AA-Atomic-Clif Designs-DC-Diamond-Digital Designs-Directed-Eclipse-Fi-Hertz-Hifonics-Kenwood-Memphis-Phoenix Gold-Pioneer-PPI-PSi-Stinger-Sundown-TC Sounds-Viper-Zapco
Jessica Posted May 22, 2014 Report Posted May 22, 2014 also, can you load that one sub in the baffle then get someone to help you load the baffle in with the sub mounted? might be scary but it could work, Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13
tacomaguy1 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Posted May 22, 2014 You're walling your car but can't remove the center console? You wont be pulling subs all the time, I've never had mine out once. Completely finish it so you don't have to pull them to work on it Done deal Team Flex Issues
SlamminBeats Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Posted May 22, 2014 my next decision is based on how easy the console comes out..
tacomaguy1 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Posted May 22, 2014 Finish wall 100% than load subs Team Flex Issues
SlamminBeats Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Posted May 22, 2014 Finish wall 100% than load subs i will i cant image the console is that hard to move
n8ball2013 Posted May 22, 2014 Report Posted May 22, 2014 I have to pull 5 amps to Pull a sub. There are less bolts holding your console in than I have amps. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
hdorre Posted May 22, 2014 Report Posted May 22, 2014 Wait.. you walled a car and are DEEP in equipment.. But are considering quitting because you don't want to remove your center console? Hahah.. This is what the Haynes book say's: 1) Undo the fastners and remove both front side panels from the centre console.[/size] 2) Pull the cover at the rear of the console straight back to release the retaining clips.[/size] 3) Slide the rear side panels rearwards from the console.[/size] 4) Starting at the rear, carefully prise up and remove the gear lever surround trim.[/size] 5) On manual transmission models, release the clips and detach the gaiter and frame from the surround trim.[/size] 6) Carefully prise out the plastic cover under the handbrake lever[/size] 7) Remove the cover on the passenger side ( bare in mind though that my Haynes book is for right hand drive ), then remove the 2 torx screws and remove the compartment ( smart slot ).[/size] Lift up the rubber mat in the storage box, and undo the 2 retaining screws.[/size] 9) Undo the 2 screws at the front of the console, and the 2 screws at the middle.On some models also remove the 2 torx screws each side midway along the console.[/size] 10) Apply the handbrake, detach the air duct from the mounting at the rear of the console, and manoeuvre the console upwards and rearwards. Disconnect any wiring plugs as the console is withdrawn.[/size] REFITTING. Refiiting is a reversal of removal. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread
SlamminBeats Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Posted May 22, 2014 Wait.. you walled a car and are DEEP in equipment.. But are considering quitting because you don't want to remove your center console? Hahah.. This is what the Haynes book say's: 1) Undo the fastners and remove both front side panels from the centre console.[/size] 2) Pull the cover at the rear of the console straight back to release the retaining clips.[/size] 3) Slide the rear side panels rearwards from the console.[/size] 4) Starting at the rear, carefully prise up and remove the gear lever surround trim.[/size] 5) On manual transmission models, release the clips and detach the gaiter and frame from the surround trim.[/size] 6) Carefully prise out the plastic cover under the handbrake lever[/size] 7) Remove the cover on the passenger side ( bare in mind though that my Haynes book is for right hand drive ), then remove the 2 torx screws and remove the compartment ( smart slot ).[/size] Lift up the rubber mat in the storage box, and undo the 2 retaining screws.[/size] 9) Undo the 2 screws at the front of the console, and the 2 screws at the middle.On some models also remove the 2 torx screws each side midway along the console.[/size] 10) Apply the handbrake, detach the air duct from the mounting at the rear of the console, and manoeuvre the console upwards and rearwards. Disconnect any wiring plugs as the console is withdrawn.[/size] REFITTING. Refiiting is a reversal of removal. not quitting, just switching up the baffle or port.
sencheezy Posted May 22, 2014 Report Posted May 22, 2014 Nice cuts! 165db with 237 DC Volts 6 15" SSA Evils 3 HV Taramps T60k @.33 18 XS Power D3400s Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.