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C-pillar wall thoughts.


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Got some lumber here, plenty of epoxy resin (not pictured) everything taken out of the Jeep to make room. Motors rebuilt as 15's with some American made softparts,

Managed to cut template for the baffle today and plan out subs/port location. Will update pics as I go.

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  • 2 weeks later...

C-pillars are tough due to space restrictions especially with batteries and lots of amps. As with any box you will get the best results with the correct amount of airspace for the subs and the most cone area for the space. Have you measured up the space and found out with the batteries and amps all fitting how much air space you have? I would start there and decide the size and amount of subs off that number.

I run a c-pillar wall personally and have found that making everything geared towards your goal works well. Sounds like you want a big port and tuned around 35 so you can get loud and still play all the music you want and it sound good. I would recommend at least 15-17 sq in per cube of port and tuning around 35 you can go lower or higher but I have found that at 35 you can hit lows just fine and also play the higher bass of rock and metal.

Since you already have the subs I would make sure before starting you can fit them all I will bet if you dont have the space that 3 will be louder than 4 but if you have alot of power you can also lower space.

Good luck on the build!

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  • 4 weeks later...

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Got most of my pieces cut and dry fit. Baffle is about done. By finding the area of the side pieces and multiplying by the width it looks like I have close to 18 cube net. Would have liked to see more port area and I may have to sacrifice some volume for internal bracing, or some more layers.

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Sheets are getting laminated together with this resin. US Composites tech told me that fiberglass resin will not cure properly if it's not exposed to air and recommended this for joining sheets. Add the Aerosil Cabosil (sp?) to thicken it up and it is very nice.

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The resin penetrates into this OSB nicely and it has enough thickness to make a solid layer between sheets. A hot-dog roller makes short work of applying the resin to each sheet then a pile of screws to tighten it up while it cures.

Once it's all assembled I have some thick epoxy (like they do bar tops with) that I'll paint the whole thing with to make it tight and add some more strength.

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Question: Why chip board?

It was recommended by a guy in my area who uses it in his builds. His accura (daily driver) does 156's with a pair of 15's and his Jeep does 65's with a pair of 18's. His logic is that Advantech flooring is the only OSHA approved 3/4" material for 24" studs so it must be solid, and it's much more weather resistant than MDF. The question was brought up in another thread and apart from hearsay nobody really made a compelling argument against it.

Of all the people telling me to use something else, nobody had actually ever experimented with this. Long story short, I've seen a couple very impressive builds using this material, it's available locally, and inexpensive.

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interesting choice of materials

MY BUILD

1998 Ford Explorer 2dr sport

1/0 Big 3 1/0 everything

Alpine cda-9884

Crescendo CZ components

(2) Crescendo bc2000's

(2) Jolt 150ah

(2) Yellow top optimas

(1) Juicebox black cherry addition

(1) Mechman 270 avbm

miss my bc5500 and (4) 15's

You know why people are ass holes online but not in person? Because getting punched in the mouth hurts.

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Question: Why chip board?

It was recommended by a guy in my area who uses it in his builds. His accura (daily driver) does 156's with a pair of 15's and his Jeep does 65's with a pair of 18's. His logic is that Advantech flooring is the only OSHA approved 3/4" material for 24" studs so it must be solid, and it's much more weather resistant than MDF.

So how loud do you think you will be with this setup?

 

 

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Question: Why chip board?

It was recommended by a guy in my area who uses it in his builds. His accura (daily driver) does 156's with a pair of 15's and his Jeep does 65's with a pair of 18's. His logic is that Advantech flooring is the only OSHA approved 3/4" material for 24" studs so it must be solid, and it's much more weather resistant than MDF. The question was brought up in another thread and apart from hearsay nobody really made a compelling argument against it.

Of all the people telling me to use something else, nobody had actually ever experimented with this. Long story short, I've seen a couple very impressive builds using this material, it's available locally, and inexpensive.

Keith Fafard?

2002 Honda CR-V
Alpine 9887

My Build

Rebuilding...

Second Skin Damp
4 DC XL 15's
2 DC 5ks
Singer 320 amp
6 cap banks
Sky High wire
2 VM-1's
OM-1

all under window line

Team DC Audio

Obama has a law he's trying to pass right now, trying to ban Leo for being a threat to children everywhere.



EDIT: Not in a JP kind of way.

I thought I was going to die from all the jizz filling my ears.

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I want your 6000gti

I'd consider selling it after I play around with it for a bit and swap for the Zed amps. I really love it though and it might be one of those things I keep even if I'm not using it just on general principal..... there's some toys that you just know you'll regret selling.

Question: Why chip board?

It was recommended by a guy in my area who uses it in his builds. His accura (daily driver) does 156's with a pair of 15's and his Jeep does 65's with a pair of 18's. His logic is that Advantech flooring is the only OSHA approved 3/4" material for 24" studs so it must be solid, and it's much more weather resistant than MDF.

So how loud do you think you will be with this setup?

I reckon this is a loaded question but I'll bite. Hopefully I'll be able to bass race 150, though the port area and position is probably the weakest link there. My goal here is to have the back walled off for the sake of just the experience of building a wall, keeping the back seats functional, and being able to play music.

If I show up to a comp here, I'll need to do 157 minimum to be in the top 3 so I'm well beyond trying to chase those guys.

Question: Why chip board?

It was recommended by a guy in my area who uses it in his builds. His accura (daily driver) does 156's with a pair of 15's and his Jeep does 65's with a pair of 18's. His logic is that Advantech flooring is the only OSHA approved 3/4" material for 24" studs so it must be solid, and it's much more weather resistant than MDF. The question was brought up in another thread and apart from hearsay nobody really made a compelling argument against it.

Of all the people telling me to use something else, nobody had actually ever experimented with this. Long story short, I've seen a couple very impressive builds using this material, it's available locally, and inexpensive.

Keith Fafard?

Yes. Just for the record, assuming you've seen his vehicles, would you take his word for how to get loud?

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Nice to see you doing it. Very interested to see how musical it's going to be, haven't personally heard a lot of C pillar walls. This is the next move in my Blazer, so I'll be following. You going to post up here or start a build log?

Also, if you had two vertical rows of 4 Minotaurs angled at like 45 degrees each (up and down, not side to side), it would look SICK, especially if you could figure out some sort of floating mount for them. Actually, shouldn't be that hard the way the Zeds mount. I was thrown by that at first, but I much prefer it now that I've worked with it.

"Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand.

My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/

High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography

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