shepherd92683 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2014 How did you crimp? What terminals did you use? Pics? I also have an update on this whole thing...on my way to work it did the normal drop to 12.4-12.6 and never returned voltage to normal. After work, it stayed at 14 so I turned my subs back on and it stayed at 13 full tilt for a couple mins then dropped down as low as 12.3 and back up to 13.5 when I turned it down. There has to be an outside issue somewhere else. Could my ecu be telling my alt that it doesn't need to charge or to charge at the wrong time? If so how in the hell do you fix that kind of problem? Any ideas why this happens anybody? 2017 Honda Accord Touring Build coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepherd92683 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 The same thing again has happened both times driving my car except I didn't go lower than 12.8 and charged at 14.1 when turned down. Can someone help out with ideas please? 2017 Honda Accord Touring Build coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cloud77 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 an alternator is the best upgrade if you know what you're doing with installs. If you are maintaining these type of voltages you will wet yourself after a solid alternator upgrade. 2004 Grand Prix GT (2) 12" RE XXXs (04/05 XBL^2) 5 cu. ft tuned @ 35 Hz MMATS HD4000.05 MMATS SQ4100 Infinity Kappa components Juice Box black cherry Duralast platinum group 34 1/0 KNU OFC, 2/0 welding Singer 250A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepherd92683 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 After more research I found this.... http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1606 This may answer my question on my my voltage has been lower. Is there a workaround on this? 2017 Honda Accord Touring Build coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kirill007 Posted May 3, 2014 Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 The same thing again has happened both times driving my car except I didn't go lower than 12.8 and charged at 14.1 when turned down. Can someone help out with ideas please? If the car is charging at 14v+ without a load and when a load is applied it drops to about 12.8V that means that your alternator can't supply enough current to meet the demand. In other words, you need to upgrade the alternator even though 12.8V isn't bad for the amplifier or anything else. As long as you stay above 12V it's ok. Offcourse the lower the voltage, the harder the alternator will have to work until a certain point but it will lose life time dramatically. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepherd92683 Posted May 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2014 This is more if what I'm referring to. Some customers may comment that their instrument panel voltmeter is fluctuating between 12 and 14 volts on their new 2005 model year light duty full size pickup/utility vehicle. For 2005 model year, light duty full size pickups and utilities, are equipped with a new Regulated Voltage Control (RVC) system, covered in the September 2004 TechLink. The RVC system allows changes to vehicle voltage, up or down, under various scenarios. Battery state of charge and the vehicle’s present electrical needs are only two of numerous conditions taken into account. This will cause the voltmeter to fluctuate between 12 and 14 volts. By comparison, conventional systems usually maintain a more consistent reading of 14 volts. This fluctuation with the RVC system is normal system operation and no repairs should be attempted. 2017 Honda Accord Touring Build coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GSanders17 Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Interesting, sounds like the eld bullshit in the Hondas. Wonder if there is a bypass for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shepherd92683 Posted May 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I got the alt put in today. I did not have time to redo the connections but will soon. It did keep me above 14 on my tach and dmm but my rear amp and battery stayed at low 12's at start and never went up over 12.4. It's always something... 2017 Honda Accord Touring Build coming soon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Huh? Kept you above 14v on your tack, and stayed at low 12 at start, and never over 12.4..... Your not even charging... Unless turn on is something. What dows above 14 on your tach mean? SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sutliff Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 Huh? Kept you above 14v on your tack, and stayed at low 12 at start, and never over 12.4..... Your not even charging... Unless turn on is something. What dows above 14 on your tach mean? My sentiment exactly ... Tach (tachometer) is for engine speed, Sir. You just confused a bunch of folks who might have thought they had a grip on the issue(s). Zeke '14 2003 Chevy Monte Carlo SS Vehicle Details & Mod List: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/1703-chevrolet-monte-carlo-ss/ Audio Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/143276-2003-chevy-monte-carlo-ss-audio-build-ib-build Pioneer FH-P8000BT Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Fi IB3 (Two 12", 2-ohm SVC) RF T400-2 & T500-1bdCP MechMan S Series 240A XS Power D3400 & D975 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.