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Why use 1/0 to 1/0 AMp Inputs?


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If anything a larger amp would probably yield larger differences.

Im pretty sure thats why he suggested a bigger amp

I know that the bigger amp will yield a bigger difference. Its just which way will that difference go. I think some of you are going to be surprised.

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Look at the cross sectional area of your 300a fuses...not big.

How much voltage drop are you getting across your fuses...?

The MASSIVE chunk of wire is useful for long cable runs to reduce the overall voltage drop.

How thick do you think the traces on the circuit board in the amp are and they conduct that full current...

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Ohh, im not doubting it at all. As usual, Im in for the vid :D

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

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Test was done with the Shok 2. 2600w at 1 ohm 14.4v

Each scenario was run 10 back to back to back times on the dyno to give a large sample size. All 10 tests will be added together and then the average taken.

Test 1- Bare copper wire

Test 2- 1/0 to 1/0 Input

By the logic being argued here, the 1/0 inputs should yield a lower number since it is an added link in the chain. Also since it is aluminum and not the copper wire.

So if these tests show the same power or more, then that should prove that the 1/0 inputs do have a purpose and should not be considered useless.

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My only main issue is this, and it goes for almost all these blocks being sold, not just these specific ones in this thread.

With my previous 2/0 to 1/0 reducers I got from SkyHigh made by toolmaker.

I just dont trust the fact that you have a screw holding the block into the terminals, if you wiggle a little bit you can pull the wire and terminal block out the amp, no matter how tight you tighten the screw on the amp.

A flat screw or allen bolt on a flat piece of metal is nothing to great.

Even Orionstang said he checks his connections once a month because things loosen up.

I tried it, and it scared me. To think how many vibrations are in some vehicles screws loosening up, terminals possibly falling out

The problem needs to be looked into, said this before, but nothing happened apparently.

These where flat on the top, just like the ones in this thread.

Until I drilled slightly into them for the screw to be able to be inserted slightly and lock them into place.

20130902_031105_zpsae0d6487.jpg

 

 

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That's an awesome idea audiofanaticz. Is that something that could be a pretty generic fix or does the placement of the set screws vary from amp to amp where it wouldn't be a "one size fits all" type of deal?

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My only main issue is this, and it goes for almost all these blocks being sold, not just these specific ones in this thread.

With my previous 2/0 to 1/0 reducers I got from SkyHigh made by toolmaker.

I just dont trust the fact that you have a screw holding the block into the terminals, if you wiggle a little bit you can pull the wire and terminal block out the amp, no matter how tight you tighten the screw on the amp.

A flat screw or allen bolt on a flat piece of metal is nothing to great.

Even Orionstang said he checks his connections once a month because things loosen up.

I tried it, and it scared me. To think how many vibrations are in some vehicles screws loosening up, terminals possibly falling out

The problem needs to be looked into, said this before, but nothing happened apparently.

These where flat on the top, just like the ones in this thread.

Until I drilled slightly into them for the screw to be able to be inserted slightly and lock them into place.

20130902_031105_zpsae0d6487.jpg

I do agree with you there. The only hard part about doing this on the manufacturing side, is that you have to make products to fit as many products as possible. Most amps are close to the same, but have slight variations. If one is just barely off, then it may not work. It is an easy thing for the end consumer to add though to finish off the product with their amp.

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