dharris2488 Posted June 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2014 if the run from alternator to front battery is short then only 1 run to the front battery will do.. you would only need to worry about the long runs One last question, I would of course fuse both of the front to back runs with 250-300amp fuses, correct? The extra run and probably another battery or two will give me proper electrical to run 5500RMS? Thanks all for the input. appreciate it... 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted June 23, 2014 Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 In all reality if say you have a 250 amp alt and tour using ogauge ofc that is rated at 300amps the wire from alt to battery will already be more then enough. Just because you add a second run alt to batt doesn't mean you will gain since the one run is capable of handling the alt plus some. However a common ground for front batt and alt might help. just an idea only testing would show what results you would get. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dharris2488 Posted June 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2014 Worth a shot... What's the worse that can happen? Nothing? If it helps, then great! Well, starting the second run today. I don't have much room to run this wire. My side rails are already filled up. I guess I'm going to have to run it along the side, under the carpet and just have a lump there. I've seen much worse! I may throw an extra ground in the rear to the other strut tower, on the driver side. It won't hurt, especially bringing back the extra line. Definitely going to need at least 1 more battery. I will buy one and monitor it and go from there... So, to keep this clear, If I increase my grounds and make sure they are solid/good grounds, then I won't need to run a negative 1/0 from front to rear as well, will I? If I have to do this, I may scratch this, as I don't have the room for all this wire... That's why I was wanting to build a buss bar system to keep everything clean and keep the "messy" look of having wires running every which way. I could run all my +'s to the + buss bar and all my grounds to the ground buss bar. Thanks again for the input guys... 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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