reedal Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Wait for the DD-1 to set gains, and when you do set your gain to find out your maximum clean output, make sure your components aren't hooked up so you dont risk over powering them. And when you find that max clean signal, back then i guess you could use ohms law to see where you're at with power. Or you can just cut the gain back to what you deem a safe level. More risk that way, but neither method is going to be completely accurate. I would say that an AMM-1 would be better overall for adjusting to the power out you would like for those components. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 set the gains with a DD-1.. dont use the tone that gets it louder. use the conservative one. they should handle that power. if they get smelly back off a bit my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted September 3, 2014 Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 Honestly in this situation...I don't see why there would be a problem temporarily not going over the 3/4 mark and using that as his max on his headunit. I highly doubt that his excelon is sending a distorted signal at 3/4. If he uses that as his reference point, and sets his gains with a multimeter to be at 100 watts @ 4 ohms he would be fine... That headunit should be sending a clean signal at that volume, and he'd be backing his gain way down...not going for max. It should be safe enough to use that way until he can get his hands on a DD-1 or an O-scope to set it properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 I think he is assuming that the amp isn't clipping at this point. He is using it as a method to limit watts, not get the most out of his amp. I don't see anything wrong with using that method as a way to limit watts. You just wouldn't use it to set your gain to the max. For example If you have a 300 watt amp and you only need 100 it is probably safe to assume it isn't clipping at 100 watts set this way with DMM. Should you still check with an Oscope/DD1? Yes, but if your amplifiers ratings are that far off you have bigger problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Honestly in this situation...I don't see why there would be a problem temporarily not going over the 3/4 mark and using that as his max on his headunit. I highly doubt that his excelon is sending a distorted signal at 3/4. If he uses that as his reference point, and sets his gains with a multimeter to be at 100 watts @ 4 ohms he would be fine... That headunit should be sending a clean signal at that volume, and he'd be backing his gain way down...not going for max. It should be safe enough to use that way until he can get his hands on a DD-1 or an O-scope to set it properly. Well if you dont know you dont know... fuck, your better off just using your ear... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souldrop Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 He isn't trying to set his gain the proper way in the first place. He is wanting to use the gain to limit the amount of power being sent to his speakers. In this scenario the dmm method would work. It's quick and dirty and assumes the waveform should be unclipped when outputting significantly less wattage than rms and when the HU is at reasonable listening levels. There is a chance of a HU sending a dirty signal if you're maxing out the volume knob, but for most users the problem lies in the gain on the amp clipping the output signal. Actually an o-scope would be best tool for this scenario to check waveform for clipping and voltage. The DD-1 will only tell you when you're clipping it gives no relevant info as far as output power. 1997 Lexus ES300 HU - Pioneer MVH 7350 Processor - Helix DSP Front Stage - JBL P660C Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4 Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12 Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Yeah, this is when the DMM method actually does work fairly well. As he described above, you can find your target, which should be lower than the speakers RMS rating to start. But then it's all about using your ears, eyes, and nose. Adjust up from there a tiny bit at a time until you can tell the speakers aren't happy, then back off some from there. Headroom is a great thing No it sure isn't. if the signal coming from the source unit is clipped or distorted anything coming out of the amp will be too no matter what the gain is set at. Put shit in get shit out. Agreed. I guess I assumed he knew his HU, if you don't then you should figure that out. But as has been said already, DD-1 does nothing if you're setting well under rated RMS power on your amp. That's all I was talking about. Oscope is the tool to use to verify, but DMM will absolutely suffice in this situation. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel989 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Dd-1 or oscope Then dmm Find max clean point with dd1 or o scope if it's to much then use your ears or dmm to lower it Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Yeah, this is when the DMM method actually does work fairly well. As he described above, you can find your target, which should be lower than the speakers RMS rating to start. But then it's all about using your ears, eyes, and nose. Adjust up from there a tiny bit at a time until you can tell the speakers aren't happy, then back off some from there. Headroom is a great thing No it sure isn't. if the signal coming from the source unit is clipped or distorted anything coming out of the amp will be too no matter what the gain is set at. Put shit in get shit out. Agreed. I guess I assumed he knew his HU, if you don't then you should figure that out. But as has been said already, DD-1 does nothing if you're setting well under rated RMS power on your amp. That's all I was talking about. Oscope is the tool to use to verify, but DMM will absolutely suffice in this situation. i understand.. but you can just do that with your ear. All that math on the planet, is still not going to account for a billion other varibles that your all guessing at. That was my point. Fuck, just run with the gain all the way down then.... I bet that will last about 1 song, as well as him staying at 3/4 volume..lol. Just saying. Not hating. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Souldrop Posted September 7, 2014 Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 Yeah, this is when the DMM method actually does work fairly well. As he described above, you can find your target, which should be lower than the speakers RMS rating to start. But then it's all about using your ears, eyes, and nose. Adjust up from there a tiny bit at a time until you can tell the speakers aren't happy, then back off some from there. Headroom is a great thing No it sure isn't. if the signal coming from the source unit is clipped or distorted anything coming out of the amp will be too no matter what the gain is set at. Put shit in get shit out. Agreed. I guess I assumed he knew his HU, if you don't then you should figure that out. But as has been said already, DD-1 does nothing if you're setting well under rated RMS power on your amp. That's all I was talking about. Oscope is the tool to use to verify, but DMM will absolutely suffice in this situation. i understand.. but you can just do that with your ear. All that math on the planet, is still not going to account for a billion other varibles that your all guessing at. That was my point. Fuck, just run with the gain all the way down then.... I bet that will last about 1 song, as well as him staying at 3/4 volume..lol. Just saying. Not hating. Very true. It "would" work fine if he was careful and conservative with his volume and HU settings, but really to do it right he should use a DMM and something to double check waveform isn't clipped at his desired listening level. OP if at all possible do it right. 1997 Lexus ES300 HU - Pioneer MVH 7350 Processor - Helix DSP Front Stage - JBL P660C Mid/high amp - Alpine PDX-F4 Subs - 1 IA Death Penalty 12 Sub Amp - Cactus Sounds PF300.1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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