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Changing my amps?


Ninja1990

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it did 1812 watts burst rms. pretty decent. are you planning to do burps? if not, dont worry about it. your probably going to do rated or maybe 100 watts less. you wont notice the 100 watts less anyway.

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Looks like a failed test to me.

But Needers cling to this test....

Put a rf or DC amp on the dyno

to see an amp do rated.

That's great and all... but you are talking about a different class of amplifiers that cost twice the price of what I paid.

No I'm calling it like I see it. Cling to what you need to justify that junk.

I'm not trying to justify my purchase. I was answering questions that were made about my amplifier from another person and others decided to chime in about what they thought about my amp. With the limited research I had at the time, I bought what I could afford, which was a $230 Hifonics amplifier. Am I supposed to be sorry I bought it or couldn't afford more?

it did 1812 watts burst rms. pretty decent. are you planning to do burps? if not, dont worry about it. your probably going to do rated or maybe 100 watts less. you wont notice the 100 watts less anyway.

No burps. Unfortunately I can't utilize 1 OHM anymore since I am limited to .5 OHM or 2 OHM with my second subwoofer. It was pushing my single HDS312 @ 1OHM really well. I will be getting something different within the next 3-4 months though.

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I don't see why you guys are hating on this amp???? Steve just showed you, right in plain English that the amp did 1800RMS @1ohm and over 2000RMS @.8ohms. Dynamic testing is done to simulate everyday, real world measurements. Could it burp more watts than a Crescendo 1500.1? No.... But on music and varying bass tones, it will keep right with the rest of them. People get stuck on a negativity towards one manufacturer and overlook the few, good amps they do make. Put my BRZ1700 on that dyno and I bet you won't get 1300 dynamic. That said, I bet a Hifonics Mt. Olympus will do well over rated on the same dyno.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
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Your right u bought the amp, and r happy with it.

That's all that matters.... no way on a everyday setup a few hundred watts could be detected by the ear o meter.

Hifontics has been known to have reliability issues. It seems almost once a week someone has a problem with one.

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Your right u bought the amp, and r happy with it.

That's all that matters.... no way on a everyday setup a few hundred watts could be detected by the ear o meter.

Hifontics has been known to have reliability issues. It seems almost once a week someone has a problem with one.

But i'm saying, what about Steve's test was "failed"? And out of all the bad things I have heard about Hifonics, reliability has never seemed to have been one.... Mine is a few years old, ran daily and has never even went into protect. If people are having repeated reliability issues with any decent brand amp, they probably have shitty electrical or wiring. And Hifonics are DECENT, not GOOD or GREAT.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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it failed three of four tests to make rated. that's not a giant signal flare? it scored 25 percent passing. do you want me to type that slower or do you get it? cling to one result like its the bible but forget the other three. learn what the tests actually mean and not go off the number

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I don't see why you guys are hating on this amp???? Steve just showed you, right in plain English that the amp did 1800RMS @1ohm and over 2000RMS @.8ohms. Dynamic testing is done to simulate everyday, real world measurements. Could it burp more watts than a Crescendo 1500.1? No.... But on music and varying bass tones, it will keep right with the rest of them. People get stuck on a negativity towards one manufacturer and overlook the few, good amps they do make. Put my BRZ1700 on that dyno and I bet you won't get 1300 dynamic. That said, I bet a Hifonics Mt. Olympus will do well over rated on the same dyno.

So when you wire that up in your car and play music how man times do you think it's going to be at 1 ohm while playing to give that power? Ever heard of an impedance curve? This is where the higher quality gear shines being able to deliver more power over the varying ohm loads it will see during music.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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I don't see why you guys are hating on this amp???? Steve just showed you, right in plain English that the amp did 1800RMS @1ohm and over 2000RMS @.8ohms. Dynamic testing is done to simulate everyday, real world measurements. Could it burp more watts than a Crescendo 1500.1? No.... But on music and varying bass tones, it will keep right with the rest of them. People get stuck on a negativity towards one manufacturer and overlook the few, good amps they do make. Put my BRZ1700 on that dyno and I bet you won't get 1300 dynamic. That said, I bet a Hifonics Mt. Olympus will do well over rated on the same dyno.

So when you wire that up in your car and play music how man times do you think it's going to be at 1 ohm while playing to give that power? Ever heard of an impedance curve? This is where the higher quality gear shines being able to deliver more power over the varying ohm loads it will see during music.

it failed three of four tests to make rated. that's not a giant signal flare? it scored 25 percent passing. do you want me to type that slower or do you get it? cling to one result like its the bible but forget the other three. learn what the tests actually mean and not go off the number

I know what the tests actually mean, and also know that it failed miserably in the certified run. I'm not saying this amp is some great amp or something but people act like it won't do anywhere near rated power. Dynamic burst is a constant 1ohm load to simulate the amp's output on music. Yes, different frequencies will give it a much higher end load so impedance curve will it effect it, but won't that effect any amp? And I know, box rise will also have an effect. Point is, these are factors with ANY amp and as Sundown, Crescendo, etc. will maintain MUCH more power on a constant frequency and not lose so much, that don't make this Hifonics in particular "junk". Would I use one? Nope! Will I use a Mt. Olympus? Not unless I see it on a certified run! My point, is that amp doing 1800RMS in ANY mode is a step up for MaxxSonics and maybe, just maybe.... they will start producing more quality amps.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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To the OP, If you parallel the coils on the subwoofers to 2 ohms and then wire them to a monoblock amp then the amp will see one ohm. Not real sure why you are trying to give those subs way more than rated. The ideal amp for 2 500 watt subs would be a 1000 watt amp.

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To the OP, If you parallel the coils on the subwoofers to 2 ohms and then wire them to a monoblock amp then the amp will see one ohm. Not real sure why you are trying to give those subs way more than rated. The ideal amp for 2 500 watt subs would be a 1000 watt amp.

Agreed. Them P3's are nice SQ subs and all, but won't take 1250RMS daily. I would put a nice, 1200.1 on them.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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