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I am currently using GT Mat 50 mil. to deaden the rear hatch of my 03 Ford Explorer. I did the outer layer of metal and plan to do the inner layer, covering all cutouts, etc. My question is, should I also apply deadener to the back side of the plastic trim? The trim covers all of what I am deadening and is pretty thin and chincy, would there be a benefit to deadening it? I have seen a few people do it, just didn't want to waste the material if it was not going to do any good. Thanks!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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It wouldn't hurt it any if you did, so nothing wrong with trying to reduce or remove all vibration causing noises.

If it's shaking a lot, making noise... adding some deadener to give it some mass would probably help.

That's what I figured, no hurt in making the panel thicker and stronger for what little bit of material it will use. Thanks!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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You'd be better if using ccf foam than deadner on the plastic

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^ that is great work follow it.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Deadener is more meant for metal vibration and closed cell foam like Second Skin's Over Kill and Over Kill Pro would be better suited for the issue of plastic panel rattling/vibration. We have had many customers use Damplifier on the paneling in the manner used in the above picture and it has worked real well for them, so there is no harm in doing that.

You can check out our closed cell foam products at http://store.secondskinaudio.com/closed-cell-foam-ccf/. If you have any further questions contact Second Skin Audio Insulation at 1-800-679-8511 or email us at [email protected]. Good luck with your project!!!

Whether you are restoring a classic muscle car, building an audio system monster, or trying to give yourself a bit of silent luxury on your daily commute, we have a product or combination of products that will help you achieve your goals while saving money and save time. Look around our site, educate yourself and make the choice that is right for you.

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