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What is louder, car or SUV?


AstoSoup

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Me and my friend have sort of a debate about which produces SPL more easily, a car or an SUV? I switched from a trunk to an SUV and I feel subs got WAY louder in the car than the SUV. So much, I am considering putting everything back into a hatchback or trunk car.... One AP 12 on 800RMS would flex the windshield way more on my Malibu than my 3XL 15 on 1200RMS does in my Explorer. I have no meter and can't exactly remember how loud the 12 was in the car, so I have no idea which sounded louder. So to settle it so I can make my decision and settle our dispute, lol... Given the exact same subs, box, amp, voltage, etc.... would the car or SUV produce more SPL? And how much effect would resonant frequency have on this? I hope I am posting this in the right place and I also looked for a thread about this, but got no definite answer. Thanks!

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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Suv's typically are easier to get loud.

The biggest factor though is your own knowledge.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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Suv's typically are easier to get loud.

The biggest factor though is your own knowledge.

Trying to gain as much as I can, learned a lot here so far! Would it make sense that since a car is a smaller space, there would be more window flex from the same amount of output? Seems a car may not be louder, but flex more and LOOK's louder than the same system would in an SUV. And nice setup BTW! I have all RF components as well, LOVE RF! How do them T2d415s sound, do they get pretty loud? I know they are crazy expensive, otherwise I would own one lol.

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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There is no definite answer.

Its always going to come down to build, power, woofers, cone area is not always king.

Theres honda crxs that can do 158+db with 3-4 10s on with 1 battery under the hood, about 8000wrms, and the car off and no alternator running.

Some cars are louder than other cars, some cars are louder than other suvs.

Same can be said about SUVs, Vans, and euro vehicles like pandas.

 

 

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Ever vehicle respond differently. Could just be that I took less for your car to flex coil just have been good luck. At the same time though flex is bad, allows dbs to squeeze out of the car.

That just an equipment list right now, still need 1 more sub amp, 4ch amp and 2ch amp, another mid, slight amount of wiring, batteries and fiberglassing/box making materials. Oh and deadener.

As for the sound of the 15s, I didn't use one for roughly a month in a 3.5cuft box tuned mid 30s on a 1500.1bdcp at 2ohms. Itgot loud and low. Flexed everything, scored 142.? At about 46hz. Stock electrical. I'm hoping for a 146-147 all finished but its a daily setup not spl orientated.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

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If you are talking about a sedan with a closed off trunk vs a SUV with the same equipment, the SUV is going to be louder. Hatchbacks and wagons are a different story, since they don't have a closed off trunk... If you can make a good box design to fit the trunk of a hatchback or wagon you will get a lot of sound pressure out of very little space and a lot less equipment because it's not having to move around as much air compared to a SUV.

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So the SUV or hatchback will usually be louder on the meter with the same equipment then? Weird, that 12 was flexing my windshield like crazy yet would not move a full can of soda lol. This 15 in the Explorer does not flex my windshield, yet is much louder on my ears and will bounce a full can of soda in the cup holder. I know, not a very accurate measurement but I think the car may have flexed more due to less air space. Also aware that flex is bad for Db, what other definite way is there to tell if my SUV is louder than mine or other cars? Other than a meter, is there any way to make an educated guess how loud I am and if I am louder than other vehicles?

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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This isn't a yes or no question. At this point it's all about acoustics, different vehicles have different cabin volumes and resonance, so unless you're going to do some serious math, you won't be able to come to any conclusions.

Unless you turn your vehicle into an anechoic chamber, you're just throwing darts saying that your vehicle is louder with the same equipment than another. The only way to know for sure is to meter.

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This isn't a yes or no question. At this point it's all about acoustics, different vehicles have different cabin volumes and resonance, so unless you're going to do some serious math, you won't be able to come to any conclusions.

Unless you turn your vehicle into an anechoic chamber, you're just throwing darts saying that your vehicle is louder with the same equipment than another. The only way to know for sure is to meter.

Is there any way to get an educated guess on how many Db, without a meter? As I have gotten used to the bass, nothing seems very loud to me, yet people who aren't used to it say it's very loud. Kind of confused about the fact that the 12 in my car flexed the windows much more, yet didn't sound as loud to the ear.... Is this because the SUV is a larger space, therefore taking much more SPL to flex windows, etc.?

Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen

Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids.

A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets.
B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets.
Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids.
RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs.
Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS.
Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider.
Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS.
Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's.
Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand)
Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else.
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