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Who is the best at designing boxes? I want to do a 6th order!


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Hexibase is an idiot

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because crazy boxes on youtube are always better...... LOL

As others have said, 6th orders are a lot of work, there is no simple design that will get your max desired results (frequency range, or spl).

Ive had my 6th order playing for about 8 months now, and Im still screwing with the port sizes and length trying to find the best.
It sounds good currently, but I think I could be just as loud if not louder with a flat wall at this point.

Some of the best bandpass enclosures doing big numbers and have a flat response are done by Scott Bowman (jeefworks), robin butler (BHE), and Mike Singer. If I would have anyone do a design for me, it be one of them guys.

 

 

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FWIW here's a 6th a team mate of mine did. It has a STUPID bandwidth. Below 20 all the way up into the high 50s

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Hexibase is an idiot

That may be true but he designed the box I'm using now and it kicks ass as far as what it's target was. Its just not cutting it now that I have different needs lol.


YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass

Website: https://www.jeepandbass.com/

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My Jeep: 157.3dB @26hz Drag Style 162.3dB @36Hz Outlaw 160.7db @35hz Headrest

My Honda: 155.4dB Drag Style 158.0db Outlaw 

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If you are hell-bent on building a 6th order bandpass box, it certainly can be done, but to do it "right" is going to take some effort.

Are the subs you have broke in yet? If they are you could buy a DATS and measure their T/S parameters. With that info it would be possible to at least begin coming up with a design. If they aren't broke in yet, it would be a waste to measure them since the parameters shift so much.

Once you have the T/S parameters you would be able to tell if your subs are appropriate for a 6th order BP or not. Not all subs will work well with that alignment.

Like khinds94 said, designed a ported box with a lower tune and possible some other tweaks should accomplish what you are looking for.

They are well broke in, but the DATS is expensive! They work well in a 4th but like you said I need to know if they will actually work in a 6th or something else. As for getting the TS parameters, I'm just going to have to look into it and weigh out my options. If I can't do anything with these subs then I'll look into upgrading to something else and then do a box. I'm in no rush anyways.


YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass

Website: https://www.jeepandbass.com/

Picture1.png.a51bb49318e5269e42f12284828c2bb6.png

My Jeep: 157.3dB @26hz Drag Style 162.3dB @36Hz Outlaw 160.7db @35hz Headrest

My Honda: 155.4dB Drag Style 158.0db Outlaw 

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FWIW here's a 6th a team mate of mine did. It has a STUPID bandwidth. Below 20 all the way up into the high 50s

That's the bandwidth I'd be happy with!


YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/JeepAndBass

Website: https://www.jeepandbass.com/

Picture1.png.a51bb49318e5269e42f12284828c2bb6.png

My Jeep: 157.3dB @26hz Drag Style 162.3dB @36Hz Outlaw 160.7db @35hz Headrest

My Honda: 155.4dB Drag Style 158.0db Outlaw 

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They are well broke in, but the DATS is expensive! They work well in a 4th but like you said I need to know if they will actually work in a 6th or something else. As for getting the TS parameters, I'm just going to have to look into it and weigh out my options. If I can't do anything with these subs then I'll look into upgrading to something else and then do a box. I'm in no rush anyways.

For the data that a DATS can give you $100 is a very small price to pay. Though if you only are going to use it once, the price may seem a little steep. There are other ways to get the T/S parameters. You may be able to find someone who has a DATS or something like it too. If you were closer to me I'd be happy to do it for you.

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"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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FWIW here's a 6th a team mate of mine did. It has a STUPID bandwidth. Below 20 all the way up into the high 50s

That's the bandwidth I'd be happy with!
If you tune in the low 20s with a normal ported box you will get nearly the same bandwidth because of the car/suv peak frequency which usually is around 45-50 hz. So it would peak in the low 20s then dip in the 30s and peak again at 45-50. I was trying to achieve the same thing.

The 6th order would be more efficient if done properly... but it's really not worth the time for most people

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FWIW here's a 6th a team mate of mine did. It has a STUPID bandwidth. Below 20 all the way up into the high 50s

Do you know if your team mate ever measured the frequency response of this system?

The problem with videos is once you start clipping the hell out of the mic its pretty hard to tell what the thing actually sounds like. No offense to you or to anyone else, but I hear a lot of people say a system is "flat" or has huge bandwidth, but I rarely see any numbers to go along with those claims. I'm sorry, but I just don't trust people's ear-o-meters, I don't trust my own for that matter. Almost no one on here trusts people's ear-o-meters for SPL numbers, and I don't see how frequency response is any different so I'm not sure why its treated differently.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

Builds:

U7qkMTL.jpg  LgPgE9w.jpg  Od2G3u1.jpg  xMyLoO1.jpg  9pAlXUK.jpg

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^^^ Agreed.

Mine plays 20hz like a champ as well, as anything to about 57hz with my current port setup.

But sealed up with the mic on the glass (db drag style) Im at about a 147db at 20hz, and a 156 at the higher frequency in "lights down low".
far from flat but it sounds good so far.

 

 

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