Enclosure as a seat

[tboorn]

i call that starting em off right and young haha

[Ahmed Johnson]

He must have a well behaved child because one of mine would've stabbed the sub just because

[scooter99]

Yeah, no way those subs will last!

[tboorn]

He must have a well behaved child because one of mine would've stabbed the sub just because

i think this was done years ago, the guy who posted the picture was actually the kid sitting in it, and he is in his 30s now probably. So its safe to assume he was probably put in his place if he messed with the subs way back then lol. But IIRC he actually said as kids him and his brother loved sitting back there so maybe they just didnt want to mess it up haha.

[LT.Smoke]

Damn that's a nice looking install in that picture

[727Designs]

James Donaghy built the box in the first pic. He does some killer work.


I've had a few customers ask me about doing something similar but I've always turned it down because of one concern, safety. I'd feel awful if something was to happen to someone in a wreck because the box seat wasn't as safe as the factory seat. That being said, anything can be overbuilt and I'm certain it could be done to be as safe or even safer.


Best of luck either way.

[scooter99]

Ok so I've run some numbers and even did a quick sketch up.

I can do the 4th with the 4 8's. Take a look.

1.41 sealed

3.48 ported

6" flared precision port (inner cutout 8.25, outer diameter 9.25 - why the center hole is so big)

tuned to 42 hz

Side angle view.

Top removed to see the insides. Plenty of bracing obviously.

So that's the 4th order.

My concern was the sealed section, and how far back it would have to go in real life (I needed 5.25 of inner depth, plus at least .75 of front baffle, but really needs to be 1.5 for the front panel as well. So I got in to the truck, and took the fold out pedistol out and exposed the floor so I could get a good reading. The center bracket will go away btw if this gets done.

This is where it sits now.

I sat the sub at 6" from the front of the seat existing, to the back side of the lip, where the baffle would be. This is what it looks like. It's also sitting about 3/8" above the floor, because I'll most likely be doing a fiberglass bottom to save space, and better go with the contours as well. Pic is pretty accurate btw. It sits right at the seam where the leather and cloth meet.

So I also found out, that behind the seat bottom, is open. I for some reason though the seat back, was behind the seat bottom, and that's incorrect. It's on top of the seat bottom, so where the seat bottom is, I can go deeper behind it, up to about 7" to gain more space if needed.

This brought me to my next thought. I'm now caught up between the 4th, which in all rights would be pretty damn sweet if I can pull it off, and from what I've seen and measured and tried here, it's doable and I'd only need to add about 3" of height to the seating with padding. But the other thought I had, was to run 6 of these bad boy's ported.

Here's my issues with that. I have the room to run 6 of them width wise. They'll move up as well so the final seating would be even lower doing it this way. Again, I'd have a metal mesh screen over it, so no kicking would be a possibility. I have 56" of space width wise, which is what the current seat is. I could, go as wide as the door panels and gain, I'd guess about another 6-8" of width. I'd have to do it in a way that I could still use the bracketry for the oem seating however because I want to use the same seat back and have the ability to fold it down etc.

If I did a flared port, like in the 4th order, I'd need at least 9.25" of space. If I butted the subs together, edge to edge (8.5" wide each), then I'm at 51 inches. That only leaves me 5" and that doesn't account for side thickness (.75 * 2 = 1.5) so I'm really at 3.5" left over. Even if I didn't use a flared port, and just rounded the edge over, I'm still needing at least 3" of width for a front firing port.

SO now my question is this. Could I port up the rear behind the seat? Should I try and go with a pair of 4" ports, one on each side? I'm not sure what I can do here.

That's where I'm at now:

4 M38's in a 4th order on a pair of Ampere Audio AA2000.1's tuned to 45hz

or

6 M38's in a ported enclosure on 3 Ampere Audio AA2000.1's tuned to 34/35hz

Sorry that was a long read, but I had alot of info I found out today. Thanks all!

[scooter99]

Ok I'm going to bed but here's the other thing I was thinking of. I did a drawing of it tonight.

6 DC Audio M38's ported. 60" wide x 11" tall front / 9" tall back x 22" deep. Straight ported 7 x 10 x 18.5 tuned to 38.5hz.

Where the sub cutouts are at, on the black piece, will be metal mesh, as well as, over the port for protection.

Can't forget about the bracing! Over each 3rd sub to support the middle between the port and side wall. Supports the baffle, as well as the floor and top.

So yeah, there are my two designs. I'm thinking the second one, straight ported. 6 DC Audio M38's on 3 Ampere Audio AA2000.1's. I think this thing will get down.

Also, with the ported one, the seat height will be at or just above stock seat height. So that's a bonus.

Love to hear what everyone thinks between the two?

[ToNasty]

Doesn't seem like "midbass" anymore

[scooter99]

No, not mid bass anymore. Still not wanting to really cut the cabin. Thought this would be kinda cool, and it's a bit different, so I think I want to give this a go. If it doesn't work out, then I'll go to the 15's and a blow thru. This is going to be a fun project I think though.

I'm leaning towards the ported one. More cone area, more power. I think I like that one for sure.