KiKaZz74 Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Posted July 6, 2015 Here's what I've got. Thanks a ton for that other site otherwise I would've been double the cost. As far as I can tell the switch is 10/100/1000 on all ports. Do u see anything I may be missing? And here is the one I have. If nothing else I can sell it if it works on other networks and have Mediacom send us a different one. My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive
hifonix Posted July 6, 2015 Report Posted July 6, 2015 Parts list looks good. Switch looks fine. I know nothing about the Arris. Is the Arris just for VoIP (telephones only) all the photos of it i can find show only one ethernet port for a incoming/outgoing connection. Under Construction
KiKaZz74 Posted July 6, 2015 Author Report Posted July 6, 2015 It was supposed to be a 2 in one. But after calling and activating it I found they charge like $5 a month to activate the WiFi feature. So activated the old one My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive
hifonix Posted July 7, 2015 Report Posted July 7, 2015 Could pick up something like this and put your netgear downstairs. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833320168 Under Construction
KiKaZz74 Posted July 7, 2015 Author Report Posted July 7, 2015 Seems cheap enough. I'll just have to figure out how to set it up. Would u wire that in or stand alone? My SPL to SQ Build Log Vehicle:1997 Dodge Dakota Ext Cab 4x4 2009 Dodge Journey SXT5.2L V8 Magnum 3.5L V6 Stock AltEquipment: Headunit- Alpine CDE-147BT Mids/Highs Amp- JL Audio G6600 Class AB 6 Channel Sub Amp- Hifonics BRZ1700.1D @ 2 Ohms Taramps DSP3000.1D Sub- Hertz Hi Energy 12" HX300D SounDrive SDA3 12 Tweeters- Rockford Fosgate Power Series Silk Domes Hertz Hi-Energy Mids- Dayton Audio Reference 4" Full Range Drivers Midbass- Silver Flute 6.5" Hertz Hi-Energy 6.5" Processor- MiniDSP 2x4 RCA- 6 channels of SounDrive HF series Wire- EB Flex 2/0 -Member of Team SounDrive
MrSkippyJ Posted July 7, 2015 Report Posted July 7, 2015 im not that up to date on networking, but why use a switch? I don't see the need for it. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
hifonix Posted July 7, 2015 Report Posted July 7, 2015 I would wire it KiKaZz74, but you could try it wireless and see how it works. Should it not perform well setup using wireless you could always run a cable out to it. MrSkippyJ he needs a switch because he is going to have more than 4 devices hardwired. Under Construction
aculous Posted July 7, 2015 Report Posted July 7, 2015 So I didn't read really deep into this but from my experience hardwiring your network is always the best idea. No matter what you do wireless won't be perfect unless you add a lot of equipment and money and thats a PITA. So not sure if anyone mentioned but a router and a switch are pretty similar in what they do, a hub is not. A router and a hub would most likely be what you are looking for. Basically the router assigns IP addresses to your devices and hub acts only as a connection point, getting IP addresses from the router, whereas a switch can assign IP addresses as well. A hub or a switch will both work, I would just get a hub because its going to be cheaper and your router will be doing the heavy lifting anyway. I would run all gigabit equipment, cat5e or 6 can support it, go with cat6 if you can. Also instead of doing big cable runs you can do powerline adapters which are super convenient and decently fast. https://www.netgear.com/home/products/networking/powerline/ I use powerline adapters to get from one floor to another and run full gigabit from there. On a side note, probably need to upgrade your router. I would go with one with full gigabit on it and probably a netgear prosafe or some type of commercial grade router if you can afford it. I got mine for literally the same price as the consumer model and has lasted for years as well as having some nice networking options. Also I could sell it on ebay if I want for half price 10 years later. Not to bad.
Kade Posted July 7, 2015 Report Posted July 7, 2015 I'm late to the party! I do cabling, networking, and IP-based surveillance for a living. Do you have any other questions, KiKaZz74? I may could clear up some unanswered questions. 2009 Dodge Caliber SXT (Silver) Deck: Pioneer X3600BHS Amps: RF P1000X5 Front: RF P16-S Rear: RF P1694 Subs: 1 RF P3D2-10 Cabling: Stinger 6 channel RCA, RF 4gauge kit, SkyHighCarAudio 16gauge speaker wire. Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188246-caliber-build Professional Networking: https://www.linkedin.com/in/kade-mallett-332b8a104
MrSkippyJ Posted July 7, 2015 Report Posted July 7, 2015 this all seems ridiculously complicated for a home network. what is the issue with wireless? F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
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