DeeBoy718 Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 So the wife has been growing increasingly more PO'd at the fact that my 4th order takes up the majority of our trunk in our 97 Ford Explorer. Just some info, it's a 2:1 ratio for a pair of JBL P1222. It's dimensions are 20x20x41.5. So I've decided to pull the enclosure out and have Ryan over at Ram Designs make me a ported enclosure. JBL's specs states that the subs will be happy with 1.75 cu ft. per sub. My two noob questions are, can anyone chime in on what orientation works better/best (subs up, port back, subs and port back)? And, should I stick with the specs, or will making a slightly larger enclosure, say 2 cu ft. per sub give me better efficiency/flatter response/stronger lows? Pic of my enclosure just for reference.Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 1997 Ford ExplorerHead Unit: Pioneer AVH4400BH Double DinAvic-U260 Navigation Unit Doors:2x Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8- Front2x Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8- Rear4x McLaren MLT-2 tweeters Amps: Audiopipe APDL20001D- Bass Audiopipe APCL-6002 Mids Audiopipe APCL 1004- HighsSub Stage:2x JBL P1222 dual 2 ohm coilsElectrical:Mechman 270 Ho altXS Power D3400-Up Front 2x XS Power D1200- Rear http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192815-finally-built-my-4th-order/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mothra Posted July 21, 2015 Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 i always use the manufacturer's specs as a guideline for mediocre performance. why would a manufacturer tell you how to sound great when sounding okay will make you upgrade to their "better" line up. plus recently a lot of manufacturer's like Alpine purposefully tell you to build a smaller enclosure b/c they know there subs can only handle their power rating in that size enclosure. they utilize a smaller enclosure to get a higher power handling. i can't say what to do in your situation but I always build bigger. if nothing changes, nothing changes You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeBoy718 Posted July 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2015 I will say this, the specs call for 1 cubic foot per sub sealed, and my 4th is 1.25 sealed (not a huge difference, I know) per sub, and it's extremely efficient, and I really do love the response. My only issue with it is the size. 1997 Ford ExplorerHead Unit: Pioneer AVH4400BH Double DinAvic-U260 Navigation Unit Doors:2x Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8- Front2x Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8- Rear4x McLaren MLT-2 tweeters Amps: Audiopipe APDL20001D- Bass Audiopipe APCL-6002 Mids Audiopipe APCL 1004- HighsSub Stage:2x JBL P1222 dual 2 ohm coilsElectrical:Mechman 270 Ho altXS Power D3400-Up Front 2x XS Power D1200- Rear http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192815-finally-built-my-4th-order/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 The larger you make a ported box, the output you get around the tuning frequency and less mechanical power handling you have. Larger boxes = peaky boxes. However what size this starts to become an issue is doing to be different for every different model of sub. Going from 1.75 cu ft to 2.00 cu ft isn't going to make a big difference. The difference might be measurable, but its highly unlikely it would be audible. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeBoy718 Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Appreciate you chiming in, Triticum. So basically, you're saying to stay within the specs for the best response? I was kind of leaning that way, with my second question being what I was hoping to get opinions on. I know that there are several members who've built cabs for Explorers, and was wondering if someone can comment on which sub/port orientation seems to give the best response...subs up/port back, subs and port back, or subs and port up? I've had subs and port back, and was moderately happy with that, and of course, the 4th, which I love but have to give up to gain some trunk space back. 1997 Ford ExplorerHead Unit: Pioneer AVH4400BH Double DinAvic-U260 Navigation Unit Doors:2x Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8- Front2x Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8- Rear4x McLaren MLT-2 tweeters Amps: Audiopipe APDL20001D- Bass Audiopipe APCL-6002 Mids Audiopipe APCL 1004- HighsSub Stage:2x JBL P1222 dual 2 ohm coilsElectrical:Mechman 270 Ho altXS Power D3400-Up Front 2x XS Power D1200- Rear http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192815-finally-built-my-4th-order/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 i always use the manufacturer's specs as a guideline for mediocre performance. why would a manufacturer tell you how to sound great when sounding okay will make you upgrade to their "better" line up. plus recently a lot of manufacturer's like Alpine purposefully tell you to build a smaller enclosure b/c they know there subs can only handle their power rating in that size enclosure. they utilize a smaller enclosure to get a higher power handling. i can't say what to do in your situation but I always build bigger. This guy brought conspiracy theory to the audio world lol. For the most part, I always see people do sups up/port up, or subs up/port back in suv's. I currently have sups up port back and it works pretty damn well. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeeBoy718 Posted July 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 Thanks, RooTxBeer. I needed advice simply because I want to build one last enclosure, and not being happy with it and starting over really isn't an option right now, financially. Although if left to my own devices, I would build and test till I find my happy medium because I've grown to love car audio, and love learning as I build. 1997 Ford ExplorerHead Unit: Pioneer AVH4400BH Double DinAvic-U260 Navigation Unit Doors:2x Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8- Front2x Rockford Fosgate PPS4-8- Rear4x McLaren MLT-2 tweeters Amps: Audiopipe APDL20001D- Bass Audiopipe APCL-6002 Mids Audiopipe APCL 1004- HighsSub Stage:2x JBL P1222 dual 2 ohm coilsElectrical:Mechman 270 Ho altXS Power D3400-Up Front 2x XS Power D1200- Rear http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192815-finally-built-my-4th-order/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich Schenk Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 I have a 2000 mountaineer/explorer and my subs our subs up port back and it gets down. Triticum designed my box and I love it On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 I would take into account. That if you use the space behind the gate and door, and the box to store groceries or what ever. That if you go sup up port back, if the ports get blocked off, could impede performance at that very moment. Also, plastic grocery bags sound like shit when they are all vibrating. I speak from experience lol. Maybe I am just not loud enough to drown it out hahaha. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted July 22, 2015 Report Share Posted July 22, 2015 I would take into account. That if you use the space behind the gate and door, and the box to store groceries or what ever. That if you go sup up port back, if the ports get blocked off, could impede performance at that very moment. Also, plastic grocery bags sound like shit when they are all vibrating. I speak from experience lol. Maybe I am just not loud enough to drown it out hahaha. It's a very annoying sound. Sometimes I keep my Home Depot bags with my fiberglassing stuff in the back seat and it sounds worse than change in the cup holder vibrating SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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