magillaru Posted November 8, 2015 Report Share Posted November 8, 2015 I think mine are zinc plated.....never had any problems. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 One question these type of topics always make me think of, how would people know if what they were using was hurting performance? I know a lot of folks have just used steel bolts, but steel really isn't a very good conductor. If the steel was adding enough resistance to degrade performance, but not enough to get really hot, I wonder if people would even notice, you just wouldn't be getting the output you could be without the electrical bottleneck of the steel bolts. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magillaru Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 ^true. They've never become hot but I may be putting in an order at McMaster Carr soon for the upcoming build. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I mean Tony D'amore and Tony Candela proved that steel is fine for a ground, as well as a chassis of a vehicle while using a rf 2500bdcp iirc. So do you think that steel used in a less critical environment that is passing along mid to high ac voltage and fairly low amperage would be much more hindered compared to steel passing along low dc voltage with high amperage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
db_speakerbox Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I have used aluminum bolts in the past. But now I use these from parts express. Less than $10. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I mean Tony D'amore and Tony Candela proved that steel is fine for a ground, as well as a chassis of a vehicle while using a rf 2500bdcp iirc. So do you think that steel used in a less critical environment that is passing along mid to high ac voltage and fairly low amperage would be much more hindered compared to steel passing along low dc voltage with high amperage. Well obviously it depends on how much material is being used and how much amperage needs to be carried. With a steel chassis there is a LOT of material there to carry the current. Assuming you are pushing 2000 watts to a 1 ohm sub, thats about 45 amps of current. A 1/4" bolt has about the same circular area as 4 gauge wire, so that's pretty big. 4 gauge aluminum wire is good for roughly 75 amps, but aluminum is 28 times better at conducting electricity than stainless steel is (stainless steel is a lot worse than carbon steel, FYI). So I'm not an electrical engineer, but I at least think its possible that using stainless steel bolts could hurt performance. If there was someone hear who is an electrical engineer and to do the math and give us a definitive answer, that be cool, but until that happens I'm going to error on the side of caution and stick with my aluminum bolts. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daimer Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 I haven't measured anything, but I think in my case with a 1/3" galvanized bolt for each terminal (four total) and around 1100-1300 watts max clamped, I don't think they will hurt that bad. In another case with a "little" more power for a single zv4 we used four 2/5" brass bolts (allthread actually) with copper nuts and washers. 10k amp @ 1 ohm, clamping around 5k at tuning (because of impedance rise).My point is that even with less conducting materials, you can still achieve good results if you go big enough. Overkill never hurts.And also we should keep in mind that the terminals are not that long, so your comparison with the 4 gauge wire isn't that appropriate in this case imo. My humble build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/192602-corsa-b-daily-build-with-12-ground-zero-new-box-in/ Single Zv4 Rev.2 15" on a 10k amp: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/201434-my-reviewtest-of-the-zv4-rev2-15/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Plus with amplifier output being A/C the skin affect is a concern too, to what amount I have no clue though. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triticum Agricolam Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Plus with amplifier output being A/C the skin affect is a concern too, to what amount I have no clue though. Skin effect isn't a factor at the low frequencies we are putting to subs. AFAIK. "Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it.""Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."Builds: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted November 9, 2015 Report Share Posted November 9, 2015 Oh yeah I think you are right!! F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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