No midbass with new speakers

[shogen]

As long as you can set where it crosses over you should be good. Are you running a sub? (If not then 70hz is too high and that's where it went) Regardless you should be able to play it at medium volume and slowly turn the crossover point down on your song with the midbass to see if it comes back. I only turn my front crossover up enough to keep the fronts from distorting with low frequencies that are hard for it to play. (distortion) I usually end up around 60hz but that's just me.

Thanks I guess I'll just have to play around with it more though I do remember when I first set it up i had the amp on full range but the speakers would crackle when playing loud and that's when I was told to turn the full range off. Did I just have it set to low then? And yes im running a 15 at 2300wrms

So right now your amp is in high pass? What's the xover set to, and are you running any passive xover networks? You might just have it set too high, and are cutting out all the midbass signal.

Yes, it's set to approx 70hz I believe. If I try to turn it down lower much more the speakers crackle at high volume. Honestly I'm not sure what a passive xover is..I have my tweeters and mids connected to a seperate crossover if that's what you're referring too.

then yes you have passive x-overs if you used what came in the component set.... a few things, maybe you're expecting too much volume and your gain is cranked too high... the crackling need to be isolated to the midbass or tweet.... I'd def lower the x-over frequency to the next mark (might be 50hz).... then lower your gain a bit and listen for a anything not music related ...

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

If 70hz is the lowest they can go without crackling, then that is the best they can do. The rest has to be made up by the sub. It should be crossed over around 70hz also correct? A little EQ boost might be helpful too. Otherwise you will need more door speakers for high output without being maxed out. I am working on a biamped bass setup to handle this very problem.

[reedal]

If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.

[shogen]

honestly his crossover set has a highpass built into it for a reason... I've not had one problem in the past running a component set FP at the amp if it came w/ its own crossover, but for safety I did set it but lower than spec since I did not want to "double" the highpass ... just my thoughts .... his speakers may just not have much they can do without working on the doors themselves possibly

[reedal]

A little EQ boost might be helpful too. Otherwise you will need more door speakers for high output without being maxed out. I am working on a biamped bass setup to handle this very problem.

No, don't boost anything on your EQ OP, not until you figure out your issue and know what can be boosted cleanly

[shogen]

If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.

I'm with reedal .... echoes my first statement... try it out and let us know, it might be the easiest thing to do out of all troubleshooting right now

[gckless]

If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.

This. Also note that those crossovers aren't exactly high-end, and you may simply be overdriving them.

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

A little EQ boost might be helpful too. Otherwise you will need more door speakers for high output without being maxed out. I am working on a biamped bass setup to handle this very problem.

No, don't boost anything on your EQ OP, not until you figure out your issue and know what can be boosted cleanly

I meant EQ on the sub so the mids are not trying to play something they cant. If the problem is that they cant play below 70hz cleanly then they are maxed out unless something inside the door is vibrating. Power handling is increased when the range that they play is reduced. The original problem is that the midbass is gone.

[Second Skin]

Here's a video that may offer some help to increase mid bass if it is a sound deadening issue. Good Luck with finding out your issue and you are in the right forum to get great advice!!!

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

Here's a video that may offer some help to increase mid bass if it is a sound deadening issue. Good Luck with finding out your issue and you are in the right forum to get great advice!!!

Tesa Tape! I love it!