ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Thanks Bayuk. Did you measure voltage drop with the system under full power? 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 You still need to have amperage in conjunction with voltage. If you don't have amperage, increasing voltage won't matter much. You only have 60-80A of your stock alt available for use at 2krpm. Less than that at idle. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayuk89 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Thanks Bayuk. Did you measure voltage drop with the system under full power?No, im running the same rockville m-4 you used to. Ive played the loudest hardest hitting bass meckanic song i have (my "demo" song) and even at night time will all lights on i just get a little flicker on my dome lights. The amp is 1 ohm stable and both my 15's wired down shows .8 ohms on my dmm. Either i have good enough electrical for my set up or this amp is good with efficientcy. I know the amp is pushing some juice because at work i rolled my window down and blasted the song white clouds and i rattled my co-workers license plate frame on his trunk. Not saying much, yall have waayyyy louder set ups and im new to car audio so this impressed me lol. I tried to break something today but it didnt, i drove 45 minutes to a store and 45 minutes home at full tilt playing bass 305 on pandora and the subs nor amp got warm. Back to ur question, with all my lights on at full tilt playing bass mecanik or simular my volt gauge just barley drops from 14.2 to 13.8 the only time it gets 13.5 or so is with all my lights on, heater on and my electric radiator fans running and bass. Just the sub amp alone wont make it drop below 14........ When u had ur m4 was ur voltage all over when powering those four 15's ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magillaru Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 If you're barely dropping below 14 full tilt, you're FINE. If you really want a little extra reserve, toss a second batt in the trunk. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 It did pretty good with 2 15s at 1 ohm and 130A alt. It needed a lot more with 4 15s at .5 ohm. I don't know how much power it was but I could make the volt needle bounce hard even though it still sounded good. The efficiency was probably cut by 1/3 I would guess. I had replaced it with the opti 4001D before I replaced the alt with a 250A. The Opti on the 130A was louder because I could turn it up more before the needle bounced so it must be more efficient at .5 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayuk89 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 If you're barely dropping below 14 full tilt, you're FINE. If you really want a little extra reserve, toss a second batt in the trunk. Thank you guys who helped me understand better, i assumed that at 14.5 volts i was able to push more power but with y'alls help i under stand in my current set up going from standard 14 charging to 14.5 or higher wont do me much good beacuse the load demand isnt great enough to see a difference. Just like a member said earlie that my ears made me think it was louder this morning because i just woke up. I appricate everyones input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayuk89 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 It did pretty good with 2 15s at 1 ohm and 130A alt. It needed a lot more with 4 15s at .5 ohm. I don't know how much power it was but I could make the volt needle bounce hard even though it still sounded good. The efficiency was probably cut by 1/3 I would guess. I had replaced it with the opti 4001D before I replaced the alt with a 250A. The Opti on the 130A was louder because I could turn it up more before the needle bounced so it must be more efficient at .5 Good deal man, what did u do with those m4's ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bump4life Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 everyone talking about rewiring the truck and such smh. lol. at least thats what i took away from this thread. Ill leave my knowledge here. 1. OP your stock alt is a slot wound. after everything heats up my guess is the minimal voltage loss is due to slot wound alternators arent great after heat. 2. Your stock alt does not have a sense wire that is user accessable. it is located in the car computer in the cabin. 3. If you go with the 180 amp alternator from a newer car, it is not plug and play. They have different regualtors. Although I do like cleansierra idea, it is still not a plug and play situation. by the time you pay for a real new OEM denso (not a reman from autozone, oreilly etc), you might as well go with a quality high output company such as us alternators, singer alternators, or dc power. for the sake of this website mechman. plus with your current knowledge, breaking open alternators and swapping parts may cost more money in long run. ie breaking things, not having proper tools, etc. 4. more than likely the difference you are noticing is fatigue as mentioned, and density of air in the cabin. .5 volt difference will not be noticible to ear, neither will an exta couple hundred watts as you saw in steve's video. plus I would NOT recommend charging 12v batteries daily over 15 volts. especially in HOT weather. 5. have a nice day Buyer/Seller Feedback Thread: http://www.stevemead...5015-bump4life/ MB C220 153 Trunk Car Build Log: http://www.stevemead...d/#entry1840136 MB C280 Ipad Dash SQ Build Log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/194484-bump4lifes-new-benz-tony-c-relay-kit-pictures-ce-electric-audison-front-stage-installed/ My SPL Log: http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 BMW M340 xDrive Stock, for now. Corner Load 10" maybe soon. But does 10s in the 1/4... Best Scores out of a trunk 153.0 sealed legal full tilt clamped 5524 @ 42 hz 154+ windows down, 155+ kick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skullz Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 ^^^^^ Agree 1000%, it is the proverbial dog chasing his tail, and all your really doing is spending time, effort and money on something that is negligible at best. 01 Ford focus ZX3 Pioneer AVH-X491BHS PPI PC 4800.2 Morel Maximo 6.5" x2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bayuk89 Posted January 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 Thank you bump4life i appricate ur input Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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