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PLEASE HELP! Did big 3 and now battery is dead!


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So I been doing a bit of wiring the past 2 days. going to be as detailed as possible to try and get an answer here.

04 Chevy blazer, stock alt, lead cell batt.

All wire is xs power 1/0 ofc

I started YESTERDAY by getting my positive run from batt to alt done (fused w/ 250 amp), power from batt to back (not fused yet, but sky high fuse holder in place because box isn't ready to install yet), upgraded my h/u to pay lc1 rca's, upgraded my remote turn on wire, and wired in an xscorpion volt meter, directly to batt positive/negative inputs (so it stayed on constantly), and called it a day there.

TODAY I went out and rewired my volt meter by tapping into the ground/ignition switch from the harness behind my h/u so it would turn on/off with he vehicle. I then started the truck to test that it worked.

THIS WAS THE LAST TIME MY TRUCK STARTED ON ITS OWN.

I then wired up my amp just to txt that it worked. Then disconnected the battery negative terminal, then put a 200a fuse in the power run going from batt to amp, then reconnected the battery negative. Went to start the truck and got "the dead battery click". I turned the truck to acc to get a reading off my volt meter, and it read 7 volts! I retested at the battery with my dmm and got the same reading! I then turned the truck off, disconnected the battery ground, removed the fuse in the power wire running to the amp, disconnected everything at the amp, reconnected the battery ground and tried to start the truck again. Nothing.

I had a buddy jump my truck, after we got the voltage back up we ran/landed both the battery negative run and the engine block negative run. then checked the voltage at the battery with my dmm again and got a steady 12.2 volts. Went in, drank some beer, went out about 2 hrs later to make sure the truck still started, and NOPE! Battery is once again at 7 volts!

I'm assuming my battery is dead at this point. Unless you guys have any insight as to something else that could be going on??? I really can't think of anything that could be drawing power from my battery. My mind thinks that the only reason my battery made it this long was because there was enough resistance in the stock wiring to make my battery retain enough voltage to start. But then again, my battery went down to 7 volts before ANY grounds we're upgraded.

I'm baffled. Please help.

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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My mind thinks that the only reason my battery made it this long was because there was enough resistance in the stock wiring to make my battery retain enough voltage to start.

Your mind is wrong. Any add resistance the factory wiring had would've just impeded the alts ability to recharge the batt. Does your TB have that stupid GM voltage regulating started I often see ppl bitching about?

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My mind thinks that the only reason my battery made it this long was because there was enough resistance in the stock wiring to make my battery retain enough voltage to start.

Your mind is wrong. Any add resistance the factory wiring had would've just impeded the alts ability to recharge the batt. Does your TB have that stupid GM voltage regulating started I often see ppl bitching about?

Nothing that I have seen. Pretty sure that's just the full size rigs

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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I'm drinking..but maybe your battery was weak.but wiring a constant draw in battery could drain it..your xscorpin volt meter.it could use on/off switch.

Already switched that earlier today, before any issues arised. It's wired to the ignition wire from h/u. And the meter was on all last night with the truck off. Caused no voltage drop at all.

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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Get a 12v test light and pull the positive and use the test light while pulling fuses to find the source draining your battery.

Not sure I understand this process? I only have 2 fuse holders, batt to alt, and batt to rear. Only one is even fused, batt to alt.

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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Also just read how to test for discharge (how much/if you have issues) with my dmm. So that alone will tell me if my battery is bad or if something I did caused discharge. I guess one could lead to the other though, right? Either way, I want to make sure I NEED a new battery before I sink money I don't have into something new. Can't even get an agm right now , current dead batt is 700 ccas so if I buy new I'm just going to match that.

Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT

Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-

Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) 

Subs/Amps: TBD

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How old is the battery? I would check the water level in it then put it on charge overnight. Then let it sit for a day disconnected. Then measure voltage. It should stay over 12v at rest. Double check your connections from the battery to the alt.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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