Tarball Posted March 18, 2016 Report Posted March 18, 2016 I think you did a good job. Just remember the big three upgrade is only beneficial if you have upgraded your alternator. Say your ALT wire is a factory 8ga or 4 ga going from a stock 100 amp ALT to a HO 240 amp ALT the charging current is going to flow better through 1/0 than the factory wire. When adding amplifiers, upgrading ur grounds is always a good idea because runing 1/0 to ur amp and having factory 4ga grounds the current is having to bottle neck down. And of course you want to choose ur power and ground wire depending on your amplifier. It doesnt make sense (money wise) to run a 1/0 power and ground to ur amp if its a 1000 watt when 4 gauge is plently sufficent. Just my .02 the big three is only for better current flow, if u have dimming lights you need to upgrade the ALT or batteries, the big three in itself wont cure that alone. This isn't exactly true. The Big 3 can provide benefit when still using a factory alt. However, when adding an H.O. alt Big 3 is "required" because the alt will provide more amperage than the factory wires can handle. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
Gravlin216 Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Posted March 18, 2016 I think you did a good job. Just remember the big three upgrade is only beneficial if you have upgraded your alternator. Say your ALT wire is a factory 8ga or 4 ga going from a stock 100 amp ALT to a HO 240 amp ALT the charging current is going to flow better through 1/0 than the factory wire. When adding amplifiers, upgrading ur grounds is always a good idea because runing 1/0 to ur amp and having factory 4ga grounds the current is having to bottle neck down. And of course you want to choose ur power and ground wire depending on your amplifier. It doesnt make sense (money wise) to run a 1/0 power and ground to ur amp if its a 1000 watt when 4 gauge is plently sufficent. Just my .02 the big three is only for better current flow, if u have dimming lights you need to upgrade the ALT or batteries, the big three in itself wont cure that alone. This isn't exactly true. The Big 3 can provide benefit when still using a factory alt. However, when adding an H.O. alt Big 3 is "required" because the alt will provide more amperage than the factory wires can handle. That's a mechman 240amp in my car, it isn't stock.
Gravlin216 Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Posted March 18, 2016 Just to be clear (no pun intended), you clear coated AFTER you bolted down the ground? Yes after everything was done.
Gravlin216 Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Posted March 18, 2016 No fuse if it's zip tied? I have a fuse but seen a video explaining it's recommended but not necessary if you have the wire tied up out of the way of any heat or sharp metal that could cause it to short. The run of 0gauge to the back has a fuse at the battery.
MrSkippyJ Posted March 18, 2016 Report Posted March 18, 2016 I'm just not a fan of having live wires and zero protection. F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
Gravlin216 Posted March 18, 2016 Author Report Posted March 18, 2016 Something strange happened today though. My car is a 08 grand prix with 34k miles on it, brand new in my eyes. I've owned the car since July and haven't ran into any lights/codes or warnings. After doing the big 3 yesterday I received this warning on my DIC saying Battery Saver Activate. Huh, weird. I brought my car to Monroe and Advance. The guy at Monroe said he had the same engine and it was a sensor I need to replace. It cuts out unnecessary power like the AC to save on battery power but, the guy advance tested my battery and alt and they're perfectly fine. I guess in short, does anyone know what sensor I'm talking about, the guy at Advance was clueless when I mentioned it.
MotorCityFats13 Posted March 18, 2016 Report Posted March 18, 2016 follow all of your stock wires and see if any pass-through a ring like voltage clamp if you do then that is your problem and the added wire has to also pass-though that "most times you cant fit it though"..... if you removed the stock wire than that could also be the problem if there is no clamp
Ron36 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 I would fuse that alternator wire looks like it's rubbing on your strut tower , 2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4 LC2 for audio control , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery
Ron36 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 That alternator wire u ran needs to go threw that stupid amp clamp sensor that goes off the battery 2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4 LC2 for audio control , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery
Ron36 Posted March 19, 2016 Report Posted March 19, 2016 Parts guys are parts guys for a reason ,no offense to parts guys I love all mine at work 2022 Ford Maverick on 22’s Skar SK1500.1 on 4 Skar VD-8’s Mids Sundown Super tweeters, Skar TX 6.5 components on Skar SKM400.4 LC2 for audio control , XS Power D680 XS Series Extra Battery
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