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Port forward instead of toward tailgate?


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Posted

The question is, has anyone ever done port forward towards the cabin instead of port towards the tailgate in a non-walled SUV? I have a suburban and the tailgate caught absolute hell on just the 2 18s and now that Im upgrading to 4 Im looking at other options. I refuse to wall it off (anyone can get loud off of a wall). I will be swapping over to the 00-06 2nd row captain chairs and the port will be basically in the "tunnel" area. I assume the tailgate acts as a loading wall, so if I flip the box around Ill lose pressure with no loading wall? Idk, someone help.

Posted

Port back will be louder. Port forward will have some cancellation with the wave that reflects off the back wall.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

Posted

The goal is to have the port firing near the perimeter of the vehicle, the farther from the perimeter it is the more likely you are to get reflections that will cause cancellation a certain frequencies. If you aren't going to fire the port back, I'd suggest firing it up and have the port at the very back of the box.

"Nothing prevents people from knowing the truth more than the belief they already know it."
"Making bass is easy, making music is the hard part."

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Posted

Maybe you could adjust the latch?

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

Posted

I had a thread about this not very long ago, someone suggested adjusting the latch but I took out my hook and loop thing and there is no adjustment. My hatch rattles also and it fucking sucks, I have shit tons of sound deadener but it doesn't prevent the hatch rattle. I dont wanna wall but it's the only way to get rid of hatch rattle.

I am trying to figure out a way to anchor the hatch to the vehicle but still be able to open it when need be, until then it's ratchet strap, LOL!

I feel your pain........

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

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Posted

Maybe a loading wall could be built onto the back of the box where the port is? Three sides and a bottom with the top open like an extension to the box. The wall part could be made as tall as you want maybe 2x box height. Maybe this would give it something solid to reflect off of and take the load off the gate.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

Posted

you could do that but the hatch is going to rattle either way. think about how everything else vibrates that is not a loading wall for the port. it's just inevitable for it to vibrate and rattle due to the shared air space. making your own loading wall in between the port and the hatch may soften the blow some, but it won't eliminate it, nor do i think it will be very effective at all.

Posted

Yeah its the shared air space that is the problem. That's why walls work.

I have seen people modify the weather stripping on their side doors to eliminate wind noise maybe it would help tighten up the back gate. What they would do is remove the weather strip and slide a 1/2 inch or whatever size foam cord into the open end of the weather strip and work it down the whole length. Then reinstall and have a tight door.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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