06RTCharger Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Wow ok, seems pretty clear its no comparisons. The full range Dclass i was lookin at was 150x4 or bridged 300x2, same at 12volts and 14 volts. Also the output stays the same for the different impendences, from 4ohm-1.5ohm. And the frequency response was 6hz-30k hz. Looked like a damn good mid/high amp on paper.....but naw??? The Dclass amp inner networkings is just not up to par when it comes to an a/b amps innards huh? Thats kinda what i figured but the paper work looked pretty good so i had to ask and get a majority idea on the issue. Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Class A/B or D it really shouldn't matter. In the real world though a class A/B amp has some inherent qualities that make it easier to design, so its easier to implement which means a better "sounding" amp. although it does put off more heat. Realistically a amp should add nothing to the sound coming out of the speakers...meaning it shouldn't color the sound at all if I am going to use annoying subjective terms. (when someone makes a statement like that just replace whatever stupid word they used with distortion and that usually explains it) read this for more info if you reallly want to get into it. http://www.analog.com/library/analogDialogue/archives/40-06/class_d.pdf PWM and feedback loops and on and on... Its not about noise dude. Its about the playable band. Most class d amps do NOT have a full band width. That, is a fact. Has nothing to do with noise, its what is "not there" in the first place. Again,... i cant hear it anyway, soooooo im a grab a drink. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Class A/B or D it really shouldn't matter. In the real world though a class A/B amp has some inherent qualities that make it easier to design, so its easier to implement which means a better "sounding" amp. although it does put off more heat. Realistically a amp should add nothing to the sound coming out of the speakers...meaning it shouldn't color the sound at all if I am going to use annoying subjective terms. (when someone makes a statement like that just replace whatever stupid word they used with distortion and that usually explains it) read this for more info if you reallly want to get into it. http://www.analog.com/library/analogDialogue/archives/40-06/class_d.pdf PWM and feedback loops and on and on... Its not about noise dude. Its about the playable band. Most class d amps do NOT have a full band width. That, is a fact. Has nothing to do with noise, its what is "not there" in the first place. Again,... i cant hear it anyway, soooooo im a grab a drink. ...theres plenty of Class D designs that are full frequency range. The main difference between AB and D is absolutely distortion...and power delivery. Not really here to argue though so carry on sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Class A/B or D it really shouldn't matter. In the real world though a class A/B amp has some inherent qualities that make it easier to design, so its easier to implement which means a better "sounding" amp. although it does put off more heat. Realistically a amp should add nothing to the sound coming out of the speakers...meaning it shouldn't color the sound at all if I am going to use annoying subjective terms. (when someone makes a statement like that just replace whatever stupid word they used with distortion and that usually explains it) read this for more info if you reallly want to get into it. http://www.analog.com/library/analogDialogue/archives/40-06/class_d.pdf PWM and feedback loops and on and on... Its not about noise dude. Its about the playable band. Most class d amps do NOT have a full band width. That, is a fact. Has nothing to do with noise, its what is "not there" in the first place. Again,... i cant hear it anyway, soooooo im a grab a drink. ...theres plenty of Class D designs that are full frequency range. The main difference between AB and D is absolutely distortion...and power delivery. Not really here to argue though so carry on sir. So the "con" of the a/b class is heat? What causes the heat, is it how high the gain is to its max output? I guess im asking if there is a way to avoid causing too much heat. Say i have a 200x4 4ohm rms, and ive set the gain so that the output is at 150w. Would that still cause high heat over couple hours of play? Or would the underpowering make a big improvement to heat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aculous Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Class A/B or D it really shouldn't matter. In the real world though a class A/B amp has some inherent qualities that make it easier to design, so its easier to implement which means a better "sounding" amp. although it does put off more heat. Realistically a amp should add nothing to the sound coming out of the speakers...meaning it shouldn't color the sound at all if I am going to use annoying subjective terms. (when someone makes a statement like that just replace whatever stupid word they used with distortion and that usually explains it) read this for more info if you reallly want to get into it. http://www.analog.com/library/analogDialogue/archives/40-06/class_d.pdf PWM and feedback loops and on and on... Its not about noise dude. Its about the playable band. Most class d amps do NOT have a full band width. That, is a fact. Has nothing to do with noise, its what is "not there" in the first place. Again,... i cant hear it anyway, soooooo im a grab a drink. ...theres plenty of Class D designs that are full frequency range. The main difference between AB and D is absolutely distortion...and power delivery. Not really here to argue though so carry on sir. So the "con" of the a/b class is heat? What causes the heat, is it how high the gain is to its max output? I guess im asking if there is a way to avoid causing too much heat. Say i have a 200x4 4ohm rms, and ive set the gain so that the output is at 150w. Would that still cause high heat over couple hours of play? Or would the underpowering make a big improvement to heat? thats the main issue thats usually brought up. You have tradeoffs in all designs and topologies. Better quality amps, even Class A/B will run pretty cool or at least cool enough where you won't need active vs passive cooling. (a fan as opposed to the heatsinks that are on it) If you spend the money for a decent amp I wouldn't worry about cooling it any special way unless you have a specific concern in your install. Just make sure the heat sinks get a little airflow and you should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Class A/B or D it really shouldn't matter. In the real world though a class A/B amp has some inherent qualities that make it easier to design, so its easier to implement which means a better "sounding" amp. although it does put off more heat. Realistically a amp should add nothing to the sound coming out of the speakers...meaning it shouldn't color the sound at all if I am going to use annoying subjective terms. (when someone makes a statement like that just replace whatever stupid word they used with distortion and that usually explains it) read this for more info if you reallly want to get into it. http://www.analog.com/library/analogDialogue/archives/40-06/class_d.pdf PWM and feedback loops and on and on... Its not about noise dude. Its about the playable band. Most class d amps do NOT have a full band width. That, is a fact. Has nothing to do with noise, its what is "not there" in the first place. Again,... i cant hear it anyway, soooooo im a grab a drink. ...theres plenty of Class D designs that are full frequency range. The main difference between AB and D is absolutely distortion...and power delivery. Not really here to argue though so carry on sir. So the "con" of the a/b class is heat? What causes the heat, is it how high the gain is to its max output? I guess im asking if there is a way to avoid causing too much heat. Say i have a 200x4 4ohm rms, and ive set the gain so that the output is at 150w. Would that still cause high heat over couple hours of play? Or would the underpowering make a big improvement to heat? thats the main issue thats usually brought up. You have tradeoffs in all designs and topologies. Better quality amps, even Class A/B will run pretty cool or at least cool enough where you won't need active vs passive cooling. (a fan as opposed to the heatsinks that are on it) If you spend the money for a decent amp I wouldn't worry about cooling it any special way unless you have a specific concern in your install. Just make sure the heat sinks get a little airflow and you should be fine. What is it that causes the extra heat though in a class a/b, so that i can plan to avoid it? My simple noob thinking is that if im able to underpower the amp, WHILE still being able to match the speakers rms with the amp below max output (gain maxed out), i would be in a perfect spot that would not cause extra/unwanted heat. Is my thinking correct, or thats not at all how a/b amps work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogen Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 have had zed mikro 4's for a while now... well 3yrs about. never an issue. used to power some vifa tweets w/ silver flute mids... then went to mini horns from eric w/ some peerless mids... always had power on tap, always clear and loud. previously the power was from some old school class a/b amps on of which was US acoustics and another I don't remember exact models. Pioneer Premier P880PRS ll Front Stage: US Acoustics 4060 - Random speakers currently ll Sub Stage: Crescendo BC3500D - 15" Xcon sealed @ 3.28 cubes ll Electrical: - Kinetik HC1800(front) NEW***DieHard P-2(rear) beaker- I know this sounds like a lot of anime bullshit, but it is true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 All amps generate heat, that's why they all utilize a heatsink to dissipate said heat. Them getting overly hot is not something you should be worried about if you buy quality amps unless you're cramming them into a confined space and if so you just add some fans for cooling, no big deal. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soccerballzs Posted October 13, 2016 Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Tony D. Can explain the difference in the Class a/b over the class D. He has videos look at them. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/garage/vehicle/2438-jeep-commander/I Pioneer P99RSAmpere 38002-Ampere 125/44-6.5 inch Hertz HSK XL Mids4-8 inch JL Audio ZR Midwoofer 2-5.25 Satori Mids2-Morel Tweeters, 2 Hertz Milles 3 inch on A pillars2-Hertz Silk tweeters DC Audio Level 5/12 Skyhigh Wire Mechman 320 XS Power D3100MO Funniest Thread of the Year 2013: http://www.stevemead...dy-being-a-pos/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted October 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2016 Tony D. Can explain the difference in the Class a/b over the class D. He has videos look at them. Thanks, Thats what im looking for, more detail of why one is prefered over another. Whos tony d, i typed in "tony d amp" as a search on youtube and mostly smd stuff came up. Where do i find his videos? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.