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Making your roof rigid, what does it take?


kryptonite

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i have a 05 explorerwood_roof.jpg

i have one layer of 3/4 inch and a layer of 1/2 inch mdf glued between the braces
its accomplished getting rid of the metal slapping sound
but its not rigid when music plays
the next step for me is a full sheet but cant decide if its gonna be flat or contour to the rood like the rest

.

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just curious when making a roof stiff is it best to add sound deadening first before adding wood or is it not necessarily needed. Just wondering because eventually I'm going to do mine.

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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Personally (no prior experience) I would think you should add wood before deadener, or remove deadener that is already in place, THEN add wood and deaden over (under?) it?. Just me. Hell, even by adding wood, you've already added mass to the roof, so why deaden? Food for thought....

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I have three layers of second skin from front to back on it already and that bish waves like the Pacific Ocean lol sick of the roof cracking and tearing so I'm just gonna layer it up with wood and hope for the best haha

DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGER

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4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option

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lvl 4 motor

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On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said:

this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick.

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mine has waves too will see if roof starts breaking after cpillar wall

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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I used 1/4" plywood between the roof support because it was easy to bend to the contour of the roof. I used the whole sheet which ended up being 4 layers of 1/4" then I used a piece of 3/4" to flatten it out as much as possible. I also had 3 layers of second skin on the roof prior and left it on.

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just curious when making a roof stiff is it best to add sound deadening first before adding wood or is it not necessarily needed. Just wondering because eventually I'm going to do mine.

No deadener at all if you use wood. I started with deadener and it actually didn't help any.

I didn't fuck around on mine and I used metal. This year I may seal up the metal and back it wiht something dense.... Like really dense

1349713160_rte.png
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