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Tweeter Placement Issue


Charles Phillips

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Hey, I just installed some SoundQubed pro audio tweeters, but the problem is there is a little gap behind them since a flush mount was impossible in this configuration. What can I use to fill this space and keep everything looking stock? (or as stock as a 3" titanium horn can look) I thought I could build a tiny skeleton out of wood and use fiberglass in there, but I have no idea. Any suggestions welcome.

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IMG_0531_zpsp8qcabxf.jpg?t=1481518834

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- 2009 Toyota Matrix Base -

- iPad 64GB -

- miniDSP 2x4 HD -

- PPI Art a200.2 -

- SoundQubed SQ-2200.2 x 2 -

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Smh..

Well for one should made a fiberglass overlay where you wanted tweeter, then glue a wood ring (the same dia of tweeter)to the overlay.wrapped it with some sort cloth material,glass that then bondo sand smooth then paint it..then attach overlay to panel.t hen mount tweeter

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Smh..

Well for one should made a fiberglass overlay where you wanted tweeter, then glue a wood ring (the same dia of tweeter)to the overlay.wrapped it with some sort cloth material,glass that then bondo sand smooth then paint it..then attach overlay to panel.t hen mount tweeter

Yes, my only fear was that it wouldn't be strong enough to hold it. Idk if it looks like it in the pictures, but it's not wimpy. I can see now that I was wrong, but oh well, learning experience.

If I were you, the first thing I'd do is to countersink those screw holes + find new screws to sit flush. After that, some sort of body filler maybe?

The screws were just temporary. Body filler is a solid idea. I've heard it's a pain to sand down, but I guess it's worth it at this point.

- 2009 Toyota Matrix Base -

- iPad 64GB -

- miniDSP 2x4 HD -

- PPI Art a200.2 -

- SoundQubed SQ-2200.2 x 2 -

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Share on other sites

It will be more than strong enough if done correctly..I already see how I would get it done and quick to..such a easy job..

I'm sure it would be easier for you considering this is my first time using fiberglass.

I'd just make some small MDF ring spacers, then hand sand them to match the contour of the pillar. Prime and then paint or wrap accordingly.

I probably should have gone this way, but I'm sure fiberglass experience can't hurt me. If I mess it up, I'll just practice until I can make fully new doors.

So here's the progress. Waiting for the glue to cure, and then using fleece to wrap it and resin to make it stronger.

6E93B6A2-3460-4F4E-8D27-5F51904CDA03_zps

- 2009 Toyota Matrix Base -

- iPad 64GB -

- miniDSP 2x4 HD -

- PPI Art a200.2 -

- SoundQubed SQ-2200.2 x 2 -

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