DJ Zander Posted July 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 And those batteries u mentioned r too expensive. Do I really need that much under the hood just for 1k watts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkarredSierra Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 No. People run up to 2k or more all the time on stock electrical. If your looking for a cheaper solution you could check out kinetik. Agm batts are expensive regardless tho. The extra reserve is better for your cars electrical as well as your amps. You really wanna stay at least in low 12s to avoid any low voltage issues. Doin big three and extra small reserve batt should be all youll need on 1k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex912005 Posted July 10, 2018 Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Cheaper batteries are cheaper for a reason. Try running your setup all stock for now and see how it goes. If you get bad voltage drop then consider saving up for a big agm like the ones I mentioned. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Zander Posted July 10, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2018 Is an XS power D4700 a good battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 So i researched a little to see if i was full of shit. turns out most articles so you can but here is the affects and down sided. Resting voltage is one. charging rate and type of charge is another. I don't chase numbers but i like to do shit right. But everyone can build there systems how they see fit. Kenetic HC 600 up front. Front Started Battery. Lancer rear Battery's. This is what i put in my daughters 94 Suzuki SideKick. More than enough power to start her 4 banger and run a 700 watt system. Wife's Malibu which is mine now. Pretty stealth, some wire loom would have hidden the RF OFC 4 gauge wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 For the set up your running, and wired at 1ohm, I'd do the big 3, proper size wire ro reach the amp, and be done. I'm willing to bet, (unless you turn the gain full retard, or play it for several several songs at idle) you'll be fine. Just me. If you see anything remotely scary voltage wise, upgrade the front bat. But I bet you wont. Put the money else where. SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Zander Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 What exactly is the big 3. Is it the wires, a battery for the trunk and something else? I'm getting crazy dimming lights at 600 rms watts from the system I have now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alex912005 Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Big 3 is: 1. your alternator positive to battery positive cable; 2. your battery ground (cable from battery negative to frame, usually under the battery tray); 3. your ground cable to engine or gearbox. My Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Zander Posted July 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 So u don't think I need to spend $300 on a big battery under the hood? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hellbilly429 Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Upgrade your wiring as directed by others, try it without spending money on the battery for now, and see what happens. As for wiring recommendations, I always recommend Sky High Car Audio as the price is hard to beat for the wire quality you receive. If you're not willing to do it the tried and true way to ensure you do not have issues, then you must do some trial and error on your own. We have no way of assessing your current car's electrical system as there are too many variables to take into affect (age, wear and tear from environment and use, etc.). You can always take your car to Autozone and have them test your current battery and alternator (free service they provide) to make sure that they are functioning properly. Your headlights will dim over just about any power fluctuation if you do not address the headlights themselves. Most stock headlight harnesses are not sufficiently grounded, and a lot the time, they are not sufficiently powered either. You can clean up the ground to each headlight harness, and run a relay from the battery to the headlights with a 12-10 gauge wire to ensure they are receiving proper power. What I have done in the past to get around this was replacing the stock headlights with HID's, which will not flicker from voltage drop as easily as halogen lights (as long as they are wired correctly.) 2018 Honda Civic Sport Hatchback (build in progress) NVX Sound Deadener (Front Doors) Stinger FAST Rings Stock Electrical SSA Evil 6.5's Front Speakers Stock rear speakers MB Quart ONX4.80 speaker amp Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp DC Level 4 12" D1 @ 2-ohm Box In Design Stage Stock RadioMy Build Log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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