LoudPackRacing Posted April 29, 2020 Report Posted April 29, 2020 I’m redoing my system on my 2003 civic. I’ve remove the rear 6x9s and wired the front doors for 2 way active setup. System consists of Pioneer Avh-501ex Soundquebed S4-100 on the highs and a Hifoncis BRX3016.1D on the sub. Speakers are Morel Maximo 6 rated for 90 rms and sub is EXM1000.12D4 rated for 1000rms. I’m using the headunit in network mode for the crossover. Sub LPF is @ 80hz, midrange is from 80hz- 4K hz, and tweeters from 4K and up. Problem is my midbass has disappeared and it seems like things are out of balance. Anybody have any ideas to help with tuning?
Joshdashef Posted April 30, 2020 Report Posted April 30, 2020 Hmm. Check your crossover slopes? Might be set to super steep. SMD Tool Map (2024): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/226545-smd-tool-map-2024/ Great Box Bracing Examples: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/202148-best-way-to-brace-a-box/?do=findComment&comment=3055002
LoudPackRacing Posted April 30, 2020 Author Report Posted April 30, 2020 9 hours ago, Joshdashef said: Hmm. Check your crossover slopes? Might be set to super steep. 12db should be correct right?
MrSkippyJ Posted April 30, 2020 Report Posted April 30, 2020 seems like a simple thing but have you checked polarity? F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69
AaronT Posted April 30, 2020 Report Posted April 30, 2020 Let subs go 63 down at 12db Bandpass on mids 63 up @ 18-24 db (got mine at 12db, they take it fine) and 3.15k down at 12db Tweeters 3.15k up at 12-18 (got mine at 12db, just fine)
AaronT Posted April 30, 2020 Report Posted April 30, 2020 Your midbass is starting around 75 hz, a 80 down at any slope is cutting them all out. Try 63 up at 18-24 if amp is gained right you should be able to play wide open 63 up no prob
bcbrassard Posted April 30, 2020 Report Posted April 30, 2020 Good info above. Turn sub off if someone hasn't mentioned that already. How did you install the mid-bass speakers? Was there any deadening done to the doors? Are the doors sealed off as much as possible? Speakers don't like a leaky enclosure. Super important to have done the steps i mentioned to get the best sound out of your drivers. Inside of door is deadened with Stinger Road Kill Extreme and then a layer of Dynamat acoustic foam. Fast Ring rear wave baffle. Not super pretty, the door has been worked on a few times. Inner door treated with SoundSkins which is a butyl, aluminum, acoustic foam all in one product. With a SoundSkins acoustic CCF Fast ring system. On a well treated door panel. Back on looking stock. I have a simple single din pioneer HU hooked up to test speakers in the car and with 7+ watts going to this speaker with the cabin deadened to the extreme this speaker sounds like 50-75 watts is coming out because the speaker is sealed and most of all the energy is coming out the grille instead of dissipating in the door cavity, the panel, ect. She is tight like a tiger if you know what i mean. Nobody likes sloppy sound waves !! ha ha
AaronT Posted April 30, 2020 Report Posted April 30, 2020 Yep my doors are edge to edge inside and out. And butyl rope where I can't reach good
AaronT Posted April 30, 2020 Report Posted April 30, 2020 Makes a night and day difference in mid bass If i wanted to I could run the midbass at 25hz Hof @ 24hz and sound like a small low power sub stage
LoudPackRacing Posted May 1, 2020 Author Report Posted May 1, 2020 19 hours ago, MrSkippyJ said: seems like a simple thing but have you checked polarity? I will double check again in the morning to make sure.
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