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240a Singer Alt not charging..


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I'm currently waiting on a Fi Sub so I have been driving without anything connected for about 2 months now. Out of nowhere my voltage just started dropping. I start my car, it's at ~14.4 then once I start driving it drops down to ~12.3.. I tried reaching out to Mike Singer but he hasn't gotten back to me and from what I remember he takes forever to respond.

 

So my question is... does this mean it is dying ? Has anyone else experienced this ? Is the cost of repair even worth it ? If not, can someone point me in the direction where I can find a ho alternator for a 2013 accord coupe 3.5L.

 

Thanks, Nick

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I forgot to state, I bought the alt back in 2016 and never had voltage drop issues. I just got an oil change a few days ago from the Honda dealership and it started happening after that. They did a “battery test” not sure why... Any ideas on what I can try to do myself ?

 

Also, the alt was custom built to bypass the amazing and innovative ELD feature that Honda just had to have in their cars...smfh 

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make sure your alt belt is tight, that's the most common thing to make an alt not charge high.  kind of like a warning sign.  and really check it, go out and tighten it if need be, have about 5mm of flex in the belt if it's adjustable.

 

beyond that, just wait to hear back from Mike.  He's a fuckin champ at customer service plus you have a lifetime warranty on the alternator against non cosmetic defects.

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51 minutes ago, bmwking said:

make sure your alt belt is tight, that's the most common thing to make an alt not charge high.  kind of like a warning sign.  and really check it, go out and tighten it if need be, have about 5mm of flex in the belt if it's adjustable.

 

beyond that, just wait to hear back from Mike.  He's a fuckin champ at customer service plus you have a lifetime warranty on the alternator against non cosmetic defects.

Thank you man! I'm going to check the belt tomorrow. Yea, Mike is a good dude, I'm assuming he's just busy. But when he does respond, he explains everything thoroughly which is awesome. And yes, I remember about the warranty. Thanks again

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So it didnt start happening until after the oil change and battery test at the dealership?

 

Was the alt built to bypass the ELD, meaning the bypass was internal, or was there a resistor and/or a relay put inline with the wire harness? 

 

Yeah id check with singer... I got my alt from him as well and got a Toyota PCM bypass which essentially does the same thing but its an actual harness. 

Singer 250amp Alt, Singer PCM bypass harness

Titan8 Lithium Underhood safe BCI PWR-S5

Big 3 W/ dual runs of power/ground. All 1/0awg OFC

SounDigital EVO 5K amp, Two 15" Fi SSD subs

Next Level Fabrication @ 7 cubes net, tuned to 32HZ 

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Depending on how it bypassed it the dealership might of messed with it...   and most  places check battery status when you get oil changes just one thing on the list they do with oil changes so if the bypass was making something light up they could have done something to try to fix the issue call them and find out ... did you go look at the alt and all the wires?

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16 hours ago, Backwoods said:

So it didnt start happening until after the oil change and battery test at the dealership?

 

Was the alt built to bypass the ELD, meaning the bypass was internal, or was there a resistor and/or a relay put inline with the wire harness? 

 

Yeah id check with singer... I got my alt from him as well and got a Toyota PCM bypass which essentially does the same thing but its an actual harness. 

 

11 hours ago, CstrokerV said:

Depending on how it bypassed it the dealership might of messed with it...   and most  places check battery status when you get oil changes just one thing on the list they do with oil changes so if the bypass was making something light up they could have done something to try to fix the issue call them and find out ... did you go look at the alt and all the wires?

First off, thank you both for the replies, I really do appreciate it as I am slowly losing my mind over this..

 

Below I posted pics/screenshots of how Mike built the alt specifically for my car. 

 

Also, I went to Advanced Auto Parts by my house to get the alt tested, with my own eyes everything is running perfect..

 

On top of that, this morning when I left for work; cold started then drove 20 miles to my job and my voltage was at 14.4 the entire commute... When I left for work, it did the same thing as I initially stated (car starts in idle at ~14.4 then once it's in gear drops to ~12.3).. I cannot fathom what in the hell is actually going on at this point. Is it possible that since there is no audio system currently in my car that the alt is not charging because there is no call for voltage/current ? I really don't even know if that question makes any bit of sense but I honestly don't know what tf is going on.....

alt 0.jpg

alt 1.jpg

alt.jpg

alt 2.jpg

alt 3.jpg

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Yeah below the pictures it says it's just a harness... The bypass is not inside the alternator. What I figured. 

 

Glad it's working properly now... Hopefully everything stays working properly.

Singer 250amp Alt, Singer PCM bypass harness

Titan8 Lithium Underhood safe BCI PWR-S5

Big 3 W/ dual runs of power/ground. All 1/0awg OFC

SounDigital EVO 5K amp, Two 15" Fi SSD subs

Next Level Fabrication @ 7 cubes net, tuned to 32HZ 

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