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15 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

Just because your amp is connected to that back battery directly doesn’t mean that’s the culprit. You have to remember, that battery and alternator setup is in circuit together. If one thing isn’t up to par, it would affect the whole circuit and then cause quicker drain of that inferior factor and after awhile it would drain and affect the other factors in that circuit. It should be working together and now you have a poorly grounded battery working against that vehicles electrical circuit. That one 1/0 gauge ground isn’t enough to ground that rear battery that you are pulling hard from with 4 runs of positive feed 1/0 to your subwoofer amp. There is suppose to be a slight difference in voltage on what the amp sees, what the rear battery sees and what the front battery sees because of the placements in that circuit. But when there isn’t no current pull then the batteries should rest and charge the same. Even though you aren’t pulling the maximum amount of current that amp can draw, you are none the less, pulling more current than one 1/0 gauge can support, so when it comes to positive output and draw, it needs a ground strong enough to support it and handle it. That one wire isn’t enough. You don’t have that battery grounded good enough, which is holding your draw and output back and minimizing the correct charge and maintaining that battery needs to function correctly. It can’t support that circuit with that weak ass ground. Double up on that battery’s ground and that back battery would be good and equal to the rest of that circuit and the rest of the circuit would be stronger and support more current. You are holding that rear battery back, which is capping your circuit. Come on dude, I told you what it was when I posted. I didn’t even look at the positive runs coming off that battery until this post and now I know 100% you need to add a 1/0 gauge ofc ground to that battery. You could have them amp grounds grounded off that battery too. You have 4 posited feeds and could have 4 negative feeds to that amp and only one 1/0 feed coming from your alternator to your front battery and then to your back battery and then 4 positive runs coming off that battery, which has one 1/0 ground, and possibly 4 negative feeds coming off that rear battery too grounding your amp. Either way, this  is what you need to do, before you get an alternator, double up on every positive 1/0 run in your car audio circuit and double up on every 1/0 ground on your car audio circuit. And don’t cut corners and think it’s possible to cut corners in car audio and do well. And you don’t have to order grounding kits. Just order the total length of 1/0 gauge ofc wiring you need from knukonceptz and order some 1/0 gauge ring terminals. Order two sizes, just in case, 5/16” ring terminals and 3/8” ring terminals and order a hammer crimper if you don’t wanna buy a hydraulic crimper and fix your current problem. If you see a 1/0 wire in your vehicle, even if it has another smaller gauge wire doubled with it, add another 1/0 run to it. Period. No exceptions. And remember, there is no such thing as cutting corners in car audio if you want a good setup. Much love and bass on. Oh yeah, that ground in that second picture needs to be moved. That’s not a good grounding location.

I'm going to second that dude. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

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Starting some upgrades to my current system.   Daily driver 2014 cruze. I did Door speakers when i first got it, Alpine Type-s Coax 6.5. Kept the stock tweeters on the dash. Alpine MRV f300

Soooo, what is your question even?  I didnt even see a question.    Edit- and, your not anywhere near 8k.  What voltage do you see now? At full rip, ... playing at or around tuning, or over/

so, like i said, no where near 8k....

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14 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

 Much love and bass on.

So much input, I do appreciate the help! Saving up for that 2nd run front to back. Plan is Skyhigh. The ground kit is not pre cut lengths of wire. It is a kit for making new grounds, it includes a shouldered drill bit, a wire brush drill bit, self taping bolts, star lock washers and some insulating electrical jelly. It is really nice but you still need a punch to mark the hole before you drill, I learned that the hard way. Never did the hammer or the bolt cutter looking crimper. I did use vise grips and slowly smash the crap out of a lug and solder it 🤷‍♂️. Last year I finally splurged on a harbor freight hydraulic crimper. I like it especially at a reasonable price and does very consistent work. Lugs from now on I will go for the bigger size, if I can. I am going to try the skyhigh 1/0 tinned lugs this round. They are double the price of the lugs I was using but am willing to try for the extra 10$. I ran into a diameter issue with some of the lugs I did buy and had to drill them out. The bolts on jims machineworkx are larger than down4sound battery terminals. I have a good set of hardened bits and with a little bit of 5w30 drilled out the hole. The oil helped so much and I did clean everything after with a scotch brite and soap after. I believe everything that is crimped is done well, no more visegrip crimps. Yes that ground on the cylinder head, oof, a worthless terrible idea. I cannot ground directly to the alternator without a lift/getting under the car and possibly undoing the serpentine belt. however, there is the engine mount. Its large, has multiple bolts and is bolted to the same corner of engine casting that the alternator bolts to. New plan is to ground there. Any thoughts?

 

Good news is this week I got the skv2-3500 wired up. it is playing nicely. There is some audible noise but it is intermittent. Voltage is staying strong, drops to 13 volts lowest during quick deep bass notes but  quickly bounces back to 14.4. Bad news is I lost the bass knob and no longer have a remote clip light, doh.

 

 

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On 1/22/2021 at 6:44 PM, 1point21gigawatts said:

A bank of caps isn’t gonna help you. You need more reserve, not quicker charge and discharge, caps don’t offer reserve, just quicker charge and discharge rate, which helps voltage. But if you don’t have the reserve to feed that hungry ass amp then that amp won’t eat and won’t put out what it’s suppose to. Point blank. Stop trying to find answers and spend hours reading what you find on Google search and watching videos when you were told the answer to save you from doing that needless searching. That’s crazy dude. And your voltage is probably lower in the rear because your rear battery isn’t grounded good enough, thus not getting charged well like the front. I’ve seen this before. But like dude said about doubling up on runs, that would be optimal and help stabilize voltage better even if that one run is sufficient in handling the current flow fully and it would charge that battery better too. But if you battery isn’t grounded good enough, then that battery wouldn’t charge well if you had multiple positive battery feeds. If you back battery is feeding off it’s positive post, let’s say 2 runs of 1/0 ofc and one run of 4 gauge ofc off of one run of 1/0 ofc from the front battery, you would need at least 2 1/0 ofc grounds on that rear battery. If there is more than a single 1/0 ofc wire coming off that rear battery’s positive post, even another 4 gauge or 8 gauge wire, then a single 1/0 of battery ground wouldn’t be sufficient. Your amp is drawing a good amount of current to just be an 8000 rms amp and I’m sure you have another amp to play your speakers. And you are capping current draw, this is certain, so you are maxing out the current draw, and pulling hard from them batteries. They better be grounded well.

Caps do offer reserve, albeit not much but you can charge them up to 15v unlike a battery. 

 

Yes for at MINIMUM for every positive connection there needs to be the equal amount of negative. Do not ground your amp to the battery either. batteries and amps all have their own grounds. Can never have too many grounds but surely can have too few.

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5 hours ago, liteblue said:

So much input, I do appreciate the help! Saving up for that 2nd run front to back. Plan is Skyhigh. The ground kit is not pre cut lengths of wire. It is a kit for making new grounds, it includes a shouldered drill bit, a wire brush drill bit, self taping bolts, star lock washers and some insulating electrical jelly. It is really nice but you still need a punch to mark the hole before you drill, I learned that the hard way. Never did the hammer or the bolt cutter looking crimper. I did use vise grips and slowly smash the crap out of a lug and solder it 🤷‍♂️. Last year I finally splurged on a harbor freight hydraulic crimper. I like it especially at a reasonable price and does very consistent work. Lugs from now on I will go for the bigger size, if I can. I am going to try the skyhigh 1/0 tinned lugs this round. They are double the price of the lugs I was using but am willing to try for the extra 10$. I ran into a diameter issue with some of the lugs I did buy and had to drill them out. The bolts on jims machineworkx are larger than down4sound battery terminals. I have a good set of hardened bits and with a little bit of 5w30 drilled out the hole. The oil helped so much and I did clean everything after with a scotch brite and soap after. I believe everything that is crimped is done well, no more visegrip crimps. Yes that ground on the cylinder head, oof, a worthless terrible idea. I cannot ground directly to the alternator without a lift/getting under the car and possibly undoing the serpentine belt. however, there is the engine mount. Its large, has multiple bolts and is bolted to the same corner of engine casting that the alternator bolts to. New plan is to ground there. Any thoughts?

 

Good news is this week I got the skv2-3500 wired up. it is playing nicely. There is some audible noise but it is intermittent. Voltage is staying strong, drops to 13 volts lowest during quick deep bass notes but  quickly bounces back to 14.4. Bad news is I lost the bass knob and no longer have a remote clip light, doh.

 

 

order one from crescendo, $20. I strongly believe they are the same, if not I will reimburse you and pay for shipping to me.

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16 hours ago, sICSoundz said:

Caps do offer reserve, albeit not much but you can charge them up to 15v unlike a battery. 

 

Yes for at MINIMUM for every positive connection there needs to be the equal amount of negative. Do not ground your amp to the battery either. batteries and amps all have their own grounds. Can never have too many grounds but surely can have too few.

My battery cells can charge over 16 volts. Batteries are better to ground amps to. Better resistance. When you see people with banks of batteries or cells, look where their amps are grounded. Like if you see a bank of cells or batteries on YouTube or at a show, look where their amps are grounded. You have to understand resistance to know what’s gonna be better to conduct off of and ground off of and then know the connection of that circuit to rule out ground loops and faulty wiring. And capacitors offer capacitance, not reserve. They can act like it but that’s just because of it eating to store and deliver charge and discharge. Batteries have “battery” reserve and don’t have to eat, just feed out. So somebody that has a stock alternator and not that many amp hours of agm and not much to eat off of, then I wouldn’t recommend caps or even mention them beyond that it’s not recommended unless he bought a bunch of caps.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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I haven't read most of the replies. But lithium is the way to go. Check out limitless lithium. Don't confuse the ah ratings. Read the description. For 1099 you can get batteries that will support 8500 watt systems on a stock alternator without dropping below 13 volts on a 40 second burp on 3500 watt systems. They were burping with the engine off and voltage wasn't going below 12.4

 

Forget all the crap you're heard about cold charging etc... My rep has had the same lithium battery for the last 8 years. It goes on a charger if it isn't being used for a week or two. Other than that it's treated and acts like a normal battery. Minus being 19.5 pounds, 6"x 13"x 7" and being able to run a 8500 watt system on a 150a Alternator.

 

How much did you spend on your XS power setup? Allot. 1049 is steep, but two XS power batteries, a starting battery, and a cap would have you there already and you haven't touched alternator yet. Do yourself a favor... Get lithium and don't look back. Power supply issues havent been a concern for me since. One 45ah luthium they sell is equal to 4 100ah AGM. Again 19.5 pounds and tiny.

 

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Small update.

I got some Techflex, 1/2 inch Flexo in neon blue and black. The Weller Rope Cutting Tip works good enough to cut the TechFlex and is very affordable if you already own a soldering gun. I got some of that installed on the front to back runs and grounds under the hood. The 1/2 inch Flexo is a great for 1/0 wire. Easy to fit and covered up the underlying wire color well enough. I finally installed a new engine to chassis ground with some 1/0 tinned ofc off of the engine mount. I get clean circular bare metal with a fancy wire bush drill bit. Then decided to changed up the upgraded 1/0 charge wire run. It now goes straight to the 4 post distribution terminal on the battery instead of at the same bolt as factory charge wire. Voltage is holding above 14 for the most part. Ordered some 1/0 tinned ofc from sky high and plan on installing the second run front to back next week and upgrade engine to battery ground. Plan for that is another run from the front most bolt on the engine mount.

 

Oh! found muh bass knob too. I was damn close to buying the crescendo too. No more clipping for the skar.

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On 1/29/2021 at 7:51 PM, smbgsx said:

 But lithium is the way to go. Check out limitless lithium. Don't confuse the ah ratings.

 

My rep has had the same lithium battery for the last 8 years.

 

I am Seriously considering lithium for the next upgrade. But why does limitless have absolutely no documentation? What the difference between the cyber and their Amp Hour rated series?

 

On 1/22/2021 at 5:11 AM, sICSoundz said:

You would benefit greatly going with Lithium, I would look into headway if I were you seeing as you have a few AGMs now, You can actually run LifePo4(most popular used of that chemistry is headway 8ah "red" cells) with your AGMs. i run headway, agm and have a 566F cap bank.

Headway is really tempting. You can build a decently large bank for under 1000 dollars. But you really have to build it: balance, bus bars, and secure mounting. It's intimidating.

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Now that I know you are cool with lithium. I vote go lithium instead of wasting money on heavy agm batteries that would cost just a tad less than the lithium you need to support your amp(s) properly. Don’t let it intimidate you. It’s easy once you watch some videos. 

 

To find out the amp hours of cyber series batteries you have to go to the down4soundshop website and it’s listed there. The amp hours of them batteries are small. But the chemistry of them cyber series batteries is advance. Or you could check out some jy batteries instead. Or better yet, if you want something assembled and easy then check this ces battery out. 
https://customelectricservice.com/products/80ah-lto-battery-cased-lithium-10-spot-terminals-actively-balanced?_pos=3&_sid=e6c3f5cfd&_ss=r

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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