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0 Guage Criming


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its sooooo much easier just to solder them, takes about 3 mins or soo and it wont come apart unless you heat it up enough for the solder to melt, and if your in dire straights you can re-use the connector ( fucking geniuos I tell ya)

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lol i need to find out what torch ur using to solder this thick ass wire. meade had a how to on here somewhere but i forgot if he puts up what equipment it takes... lol i should look huh

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theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer
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i use a normal butane torch, cost me 18 bucks in harbor freight tools.

just let the solder flow but sometimes its still lose so i hammer it after i solder so its has 100% contact and its surely secured.

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i use a normal butane torch, cost me 18 bucks in harbor freight tools.

just let the solder flow but sometimes its still lose so i hammer it after i solder so its has 100% contact and its surely secured.

then your teminal is too big or u didnt put enough solder in
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cuz somtimes when i put solder on it it just drips down

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Go down to your local electrical wholesaler - the shop that supplies all the tradesmen in your area.

If you buy your lugs from them they usually let you use thier crimping tool... one place near me has these 1 meter-long handled hex-crimpers that do up to 90mm^2 (3/0 I think) and if I want really good crimps and have time to drive a little further there's 1 place that lets me use thier 12-ton pressure hydraulic hex-crimper. With this beast I tend to do the crimps once (50mm^2 for 0ga) then when the shop guy isn't looking I do them again with a smaller die... with high strand count cable (i.e. audio cable) and copper lugs it squashes it so much that the copper basically fuses together into a solid block on the end of the cable. A guy I know who works in a heavy machinery factory says this connection is the best possible as the copper actually cold welds with the lug. No way in hell that they'll ever come apart :lol:

Only downside is that the cable is very stiff for an inch or so beyond the crimp, I think it's something to do with the cable being squashed so tightly.

If I need it soon I usually hit up an installer in town, if you know them a bit they'll usually let you use thier crimper.

I hate when I'm in a real hurry (night before show installs :lol:) and end up doing them with some big-ass fencing pliers because it messes up the lug... I usually re-do with a hex crimp later but it's never as good and usually they won't fit back into the hydraulic beasty.

Moral of the story: Electrical wholesalers FTMFW. Usually give you awesome cash discounts, lugs are cheaper and better than 'audio' brand ones, plus you get sweet crimps in the deal :D

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i use a normal butane torch, cost me 18 bucks in harbor freight tools.

just let the solder flow but sometimes its still lose so i hammer it after i solder so its has 100% contact and its surely secured.

when the solder starts to drip out the bottom let it cool abit, then slowly re-heat and drip the solder into the top of the terminal, thats how I do it, I garuntee they will never come apart (unless I re-heat them with the torch)

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i just bought a hammer crimper for 2/0 i think it was day before yesterday i think :D

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you can go into home depot or lowes and go into tools, find the section where the welders and stuff is at. You will see the blue propane cans and the kits that come with a tank of gas, and torch tip, all in one for like 20 bucks or less. I think I paid like 14 bucks for a torch nozzle and a can of propane . They also have a "pencil tip" torch that works the same way. A roll of electrical solder is like 6-8 bucks.

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